I've been looking for some kind of preferably front-exit horn setup in the 6" driver range. The closest analogue to what I'm looking for would be a 6" version of the Dallas II, except the D2 has so many odd angles it pretty much requires a table saw that I don't have. Something like the Haruna would be easier for me since I could get CNC cut flats w/ grooves in the sides. I'm thinking front-exit may be a better idea because the corners shapes in the room are pretty awkward and asymmetrical.
So two questions:
A) The Haruna calls out the FE166en that isn't available anymore. Just briefly looking at the T/S parameters, it looks to me like the FE168EZ would be closer than the current FE166NV2, but I might be looking at the wrong parameters. I noticed very few horn designs I've seen ever call out the Sigma series. Any particular reason for that?
B) Is there an obvious other front-exit horn design I'm missing? 8" like the Dallas 2 would be OK (as long as it's not wider than 12", ideally <11"), but the Dallas design is just not practical for me to construct.
EDIT: Anecdotally, I have a soft spot for front-exit horns, and especially double front-exit Fostex ever since I heard the Cain & Cain BENs at VSAC a million years ago. I had the room across the hall from them and vividly remember thinking as I first walked past "How/why on earth did they bring an actual piano to the show?" before I realized how incredibly stupid that was. I made a lot of stops back in that room at the show that year.
So two questions:
A) The Haruna calls out the FE166en that isn't available anymore. Just briefly looking at the T/S parameters, it looks to me like the FE168EZ would be closer than the current FE166NV2, but I might be looking at the wrong parameters. I noticed very few horn designs I've seen ever call out the Sigma series. Any particular reason for that?
B) Is there an obvious other front-exit horn design I'm missing? 8" like the Dallas 2 would be OK (as long as it's not wider than 12", ideally <11"), but the Dallas design is just not practical for me to construct.
EDIT: Anecdotally, I have a soft spot for front-exit horns, and especially double front-exit Fostex ever since I heard the Cain & Cain BENs at VSAC a million years ago. I had the room across the hall from them and vividly remember thinking as I first walked past "How/why on earth did they bring an actual piano to the show?" before I realized how incredibly stupid that was. I made a lot of stops back in that room at the show that year.
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Agreed, within that size bracket. I also designed Haruna & its predecessor with that unit in mind as an option / optional upgrade, in the same way I did Kirishima for the 206, with the 208ESigma as an option.
The ESigmas are basically horn drivers; underhung, short-coil / gap motors, generally relatively low Q, middling Fs, so all other things being equal, they'll tend to give of their best in a decent horn.
One note: people often get the wrong idea about horns with rear termini & assume they need more space to the boundaries. Usually the opposite is the case: they normally (e.g. my own Victor) use the boundaries as the final part of the horn expansion, so are actually designed to be used quite close to walls and / or corners. At least, the good ones are. I won't comment on the bad ones. 😉
The ESigmas are basically horn drivers; underhung, short-coil / gap motors, generally relatively low Q, middling Fs, so all other things being equal, they'll tend to give of their best in a decent horn.
One note: people often get the wrong idea about horns with rear termini & assume they need more space to the boundaries. Usually the opposite is the case: they normally (e.g. my own Victor) use the boundaries as the final part of the horn expansion, so are actually designed to be used quite close to walls and / or corners. At least, the good ones are. I won't comment on the bad ones. 😉
Thanks for the replies!
I have a wall where one corner is normal, and the other side has a slight 14" bump out before continuing to the next room, so sort of a fake corner. The problem is there is a large cabinet system in the middle of the wall, creating roughly 20" wide by 20" deep spaces/pockets at each side in the corners. Putting something like Victors in there would have at most say, 2-3 inches at the back top&bottom where the victor is deepest, and then 4-5 inches at each side (adjusting slightly for toe-in). Does that seem like enough space for a rear-exit like that? I can always pull them out a little bit farther but not out more than a couple inches before I'd get in trouble.
Victor obviously has a much simpler profile than the Haruna which wouldn't be awful. I guess though you didn't specify whether you think the FE168EZ vs FE166NV2 is the current choice for the Victors.
I have a wall where one corner is normal, and the other side has a slight 14" bump out before continuing to the next room, so sort of a fake corner. The problem is there is a large cabinet system in the middle of the wall, creating roughly 20" wide by 20" deep spaces/pockets at each side in the corners. Putting something like Victors in there would have at most say, 2-3 inches at the back top&bottom where the victor is deepest, and then 4-5 inches at each side (adjusting slightly for toe-in). Does that seem like enough space for a rear-exit like that? I can always pull them out a little bit farther but not out more than a couple inches before I'd get in trouble.
Victor obviously has a much simpler profile than the Haruna which wouldn't be awful. I guess though you didn't specify whether you think the FE168EZ vs FE166NV2 is the current choice for the Victors.
Both. The website & pdfs need updating to reflect the latest drivers / revisions (too many things to do, never enough time & I've been laid up as well). The alignment is slightly different with each but within intended tolerance given the typical room acoustics. It's tight but you should be fine with Victor -however, I'm not here to sell things & Haruna should also work fine. I suspect you'd feel more comfortable with the latter, so it's the one I'd probably go for.
@Scottmoose, i expect that any flavour of FE166, maybe even FF165wk.
Therre are some simple mods to ameriolate the problem areas.
dave
Note that despite your corners, no real extra reflective surfaces near the mouths means it does not get the effective mouth size multiplication tnat the rear firing horns get.
So wo ’t go as low.
dave
So wo ’t go as low.
dave