I have an SMSL SA-S1 amp on order and if all goes well I plan to use it as a power amp (with Pass B1 pre/buffer). I wolud like to remove the volume pot from the board and put a new plain fascia on front of the case, I am assuming I need to jump the channels on the board where the pot is removed and maybe add some resistance, can anyone point me in the right direction??
Why? Wouldent it have been better to just go with a pure poweramp board with no built in preamp/volume control ?
You will most likely end up with worse sound trying to modify the smsl, as there is no schematics available knowing what components to remove/bypass will be near impossible = you'll end up with noise and in worst case a dead TA2020.
You will most likely end up with worse sound trying to modify the smsl, as there is no schematics available knowing what components to remove/bypass will be near impossible = you'll end up with noise and in worst case a dead TA2020.
Modify that tiny thing into a "power amp"? Ok.
It has a 10k stereo pot. Remove the pot, jumper the input to output holes (L and R), add a 10k resistor from that jumper to ground (L and R). Done.
It has a 10k stereo pot. Remove the pot, jumper the input to output holes (L and R), add a 10k resistor from that jumper to ground (L and R). Done.
Thanks for the replies chaps, why would I want to do it? - well I've previously used potless boards (charlize and arjen helder 2020 mkiii) and the autocostruire 2020 which requires just a jumper to bypass the pot so I thought I would try out something that was already in a case and just bypass the pot, it's cheap enough and this is diyaudio isn't it?
You can just put a solder blob bridge across the input to output pins of the pot and be done. You mentioned wanting to remove the pot which would require the addition of the 10k resistors.
Usefull to know this solder blob trick! but as the pot shaft protrudes through the case fascia I'd like to remove it and put on a new fascia with just the on/off switch showing (simpler than buying just a board and casing the whole thing). Ive also read a few reported faulty pots on this amp so another reason to remove it!
Hi,
I have been wondering about the same. Did you do the modification in the end? what does it sound like?
I have been wondering about the same. Did you do the modification in the end? what does it sound like?
Yes, I did the conversion some time ago (desoldered the pot and added the 10k R's) - all quite straight forward thanks to the previous advice. I then cut a piece of black Perspex with just the hole for the on/off switch and fitted this as a new front - a lot simpler than reboxing the whole thing!!
The attached photo shows the R's in place before fitting the new front.
Sounds great with a First Watt B1 pre/buffer. I have also tried it without a pre amp with a squeezebox using the squeezebox volume control - sounds good and in this way it no longer needs to be on show - very convenient and minimal!!
The attached photo shows the R's in place before fitting the new front.
Sounds great with a First Watt B1 pre/buffer. I have also tried it without a pre amp with a squeezebox using the squeezebox volume control - sounds good and in this way it no longer needs to be on show - very convenient and minimal!!
Attachments
Thank you Mr Pugwash for the pic and reply.
Its encouraging to see what you have done. I am looking to use this amp in bi-amp mode to drive my 8ohm (minimum 15w power requirement). Would a pair of these be enough?
Its encouraging to see what you have done. I am looking to use this amp in bi-amp mode to drive my 8ohm (minimum 15w power requirement). Would a pair of these be enough?
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