Hi Folks
I'm building a multi channel amp 3 x TPA3255 amps expandable to 4 boards (6 to 8) channels. I got a 2kW SMPS from connex electronics and put 1 channel relay for the remote 12v trigger from ARV.
This is the relay https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW15D1M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wired the EMI Filter to PS and relay as follows:
Live to PS Direct Wire Connection
Earth to PS Direct Wire Connection
Neutral > Relay > PS
The SMPS keeps powering up regardless so switched the relay to live wire, well same things happened. Should I have a two channel relay to isolate both Live and Neutral? Any recommendation on which relay to use?
There is also a pin header that is not described online in the attached picture, I now -A and +A are auxiliary power but what about the rest of pins. Is there a way I can put the PS in standby?
I tried email connex electronics several times but I did get any answer, maybe they are affected by the situation in HK.
Can someone help please? Thanks
I'm building a multi channel amp 3 x TPA3255 amps expandable to 4 boards (6 to 8) channels. I got a 2kW SMPS from connex electronics and put 1 channel relay for the remote 12v trigger from ARV.
This is the relay https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LW15D1M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wired the EMI Filter to PS and relay as follows:
Live to PS Direct Wire Connection
Earth to PS Direct Wire Connection
Neutral > Relay > PS
The SMPS keeps powering up regardless so switched the relay to live wire, well same things happened. Should I have a two channel relay to isolate both Live and Neutral? Any recommendation on which relay to use?
There is also a pin header that is not described online in the attached picture, I now -A and +A are auxiliary power but what about the rest of pins. Is there a way I can put the PS in standby?
I tried email connex electronics several times but I did get any answer, maybe they are affected by the situation in HK.
Can someone help please? Thanks
Attachments
I would check your relay is actually switching it could have got welded shut by inrush current the first time you used it if under rated. Interrupting the live connection will tun off your power supply so something is wrong...
Note that the relay has Common, Normally Open and Normally Closed connections.
Note that the relay could be stuck in one position after an accidental surge.
Check proper relay connection and relay operation with multimeter (do not apply mains until it checks OK with multimeter).
Note that the relay could be stuck in one position after an accidental surge.
Check proper relay connection and relay operation with multimeter (do not apply mains until it checks OK with multimeter).
It's rated 10A 250volts, I thought of that but I can hear it clicking when 12v are on
A multimeter is measuring equipiment.
I fix amps with 1 DVM from Sears 2 Simpson 266 analog VOM with 20 vac & 2 vac scales.
A $20 5 kohm/v vom would test if a relay NO contact is welded closed. $30 for a DVM to farnell or RS would get you a DVM more sensitive.
I've fixed a couple of switching power supplies with this equipment too. Warning, unplug switcher supplies from AC source and discharge the main caps (rated 200v or 400v) at the front with a resistor and 600 v rated wire before poking around with a meter. Don't touch metal with both hands. don't wear jewelry on hands or neck. don't work alone, or distracted by conversation or entertainment.
I fix amps with 1 DVM from Sears 2 Simpson 266 analog VOM with 20 vac & 2 vac scales.
A $20 5 kohm/v vom would test if a relay NO contact is welded closed. $30 for a DVM to farnell or RS would get you a DVM more sensitive.
I've fixed a couple of switching power supplies with this equipment too. Warning, unplug switcher supplies from AC source and discharge the main caps (rated 200v or 400v) at the front with a resistor and 600 v rated wire before poking around with a meter. Don't touch metal with both hands. don't wear jewelry on hands or neck. don't work alone, or distracted by conversation or entertainment.
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At the risk of me sounding silly, can I ask you to go back a step, and provide some further information:
http://connexelectronic.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/SMPS2000RxE.pdf
What model number? The current model SMPS2000RxE has a very different auxiliary output connector than the one in your photo -
http://connexelectronic.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/SMPS2000RxE.pdf
What's "ARV"? And from what device do you want to initiate the standby function of the Connex?
SMPS2000RxE custom version (single output 48v), Connex support replied, I need to apply 5 to 12v to D and V+ to put in stand by.
Trigger (12v) will be initiated from an AVR = Receiver
So you what do you guys think should I use the stand by function, which is yet to be tested, or continue with idea of isolating Live with a relay or both. I ordered new relay rated at 30amp.
OK, AVR = Audio Video Receiver.
Yes you're right, there are 2 options:
OPTION 1 (full or "hard" power on/off): persist with the external method of remote turn-on, via a relay module, as you have been trying so far - I just had a look at this unit now, and unfortunately I see that it requires both a 12V trigger signal (obvious) plus a permanent 12V supply - which you cannot easily obtain from your AV Receiver.
OPTION 2 (standby-enable/disable): directly connect the AVR's trigger signal to the Connex standby pins. But unfortunately your AVR will almost certainly output 12V only when powered-on, which is the reverse of what the Connex requires - it requires 12V when the AVR is powered-off. It's a relatively simple process to pass the 12V trigger through a relay, to reverse this on/off-state, but again, you would need a permanent 12V supply.
So both OPTION 1 and OPTION 2 require a permanent 12V DC source. If you have soldering skills, you could open up your AVR and tap the 12V supply near the trigger output - at the point before it's switched.
If you don't like the idea of opening up your AVR, another option is to obtain a small, simple 12V supply.
Yes you're right, there are 2 options:
OPTION 1 (full or "hard" power on/off): persist with the external method of remote turn-on, via a relay module, as you have been trying so far - I just had a look at this unit now, and unfortunately I see that it requires both a 12V trigger signal (obvious) plus a permanent 12V supply - which you cannot easily obtain from your AV Receiver.
OPTION 2 (standby-enable/disable): directly connect the AVR's trigger signal to the Connex standby pins. But unfortunately your AVR will almost certainly output 12V only when powered-on, which is the reverse of what the Connex requires - it requires 12V when the AVR is powered-off. It's a relatively simple process to pass the 12V trigger through a relay, to reverse this on/off-state, but again, you would need a permanent 12V supply.
So both OPTION 1 and OPTION 2 require a permanent 12V DC source. If you have soldering skills, you could open up your AVR and tap the 12V supply near the trigger output - at the point before it's switched.
If you don't like the idea of opening up your AVR, another option is to obtain a small, simple 12V supply.
OPTION1 Why do you think I would need a permanent 12v power supply?The relay is non latching so Mains Live goes to COM and NO will be connected to PS Live pin when the AVR is on it will activate the relay. Am I missing something here?
With a conventional (basic) relay, I agree with your logic, but with that particular relay module that you linked to, it specifies permanent 12V input, in addition to the trigger input -
5V 1 channel Relay module isolation High low level trigger FOR Arduino uno R3 | eBay
5V 1 channel Relay module isolation High low level trigger FOR Arduino uno R3 | eBay
Attachments
Update: The relay was a bad one, switched to OMRON DPDT relay and isolated Live and Neutral at the same time this solved the problem. The amp is properly working in a slave setup, switches on/off with the AVR using the 12v trigger.
Update 2: I have a an issue that I need help with, after switching the relay to OMRON the remote control through the trigger is working perfectly BUT now hi-pitch buzzing or hissing noise is audible through all speakers, wasn't there with the faulty single pole Chinese relay?
As if the relay is somehow radiating the mains noise. Relay is this LY2F-DC12 Omron Automation and Safety | Relays | DigiKey
Mains RFI/ EMI filter +/- > Relay +/- > SMPS, Earth Filter > SMPS.
Can anyone help please?
As if the relay is somehow radiating the mains noise. Relay is this LY2F-DC12 Omron Automation and Safety | Relays | DigiKey
Mains RFI/ EMI filter +/- > Relay +/- > SMPS, Earth Filter > SMPS.
Can anyone help please?