Starting a new product using cnc'd 25mm MDF rings, then CAD 1mm increments to create Tractrix curve from Volvotreter web site.
Dowel holes make for exact alignment.
Next version will be birch ply.
This one uses 1 inch throat.
Dowel holes make for exact alignment.
Next version will be birch ply.
This one uses 1 inch throat.
Very interested in this! I've considered trying something similar. Always enjoy your build threads as well.
Sorry, computer went dead when uploading pics.
See attached.
ICG, not many drivers will go to 390Hz....but that's a separate matter. The Fs of the horn is not the cut off point being used...this will be around 900Hz.
Not sure of driver yet...I'm using a cheap Selenium at the moment. Probably go back to Faital Pro for their all round quality and pricing.
See attached.
ICG, not many drivers will go to 390Hz....but that's a separate matter. The Fs of the horn is not the cut off point being used...this will be around 900Hz.
Not sure of driver yet...I'm using a cheap Selenium at the moment. Probably go back to Faital Pro for their all round quality and pricing.
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Ah, thanks for the info. 900Hz is much easier doable for a 1" driver. Odeon and Tune audio use cone midrange chassis though. I assume you are going 3-way? How far up do you want to use the midrange horn? What are you using as a tweeter?
At this stage, it will be used to go alongside my Altec 420A 15-inch driver. I have great bass from this excellent driver, which can run beyond 2,000Hz with ease (due to the ‘duplex’ nature of the cone).
If I’m successful getting the “3D” CNC work done, then I will build another bigger horn, eg 200Hz and use 4-6 inch paper cone from 300Hz.
Therefore, xover points would be:
Altec 420A up to 300Hz
200Hz mid horn would be 300Hz to approx. 1,000Hz (or higher, depending on quality)
Small horn, from 1,000Hz up.
If I’m successful getting the “3D” CNC work done, then I will build another bigger horn, eg 200Hz and use 4-6 inch paper cone from 300Hz.
Therefore, xover points would be:
Altec 420A up to 300Hz
200Hz mid horn would be 300Hz to approx. 1,000Hz (or higher, depending on quality)
Small horn, from 1,000Hz up.
The Altec 420A is an amazing driver but I would swap it later on, it can't show it's full potential if it plays only in the bass range.
I am not sure if 300 and 1000Hz as crossover points are such a good idea. To be honest, it's very much difficult compromise you're gonna get. The low-mid horn works only 1 1/2 octaves, the other horn whole 4 octaves. That will most likely bring phase problems with it and the low- and the highpass filter (if passive) will likely interfere with each other. I don't know what driver you will be using but that's a huge range for a small 1" driver, the treble resolution most likely won't be ideal or the lower range isn't that 'relaxed' you'd probably liked. I'd really push the xo to 1500Hz which gives the low-mid chassis a little over 2 octaves (which will be no problem at all for the driver or horn) and the xo problem gets easier to solve. That allows you to use a driver with a lighter, bit smaller diaphragm (below 2"/50mm diaphragm size, probably 44 or even 34mm) with a lot better sound high up, is cheaper and easier to get to a linear response. You could also use a smaller horn which doesn't have such a narrow beam high up (old problem with the spherical wave horns because they open so slow, Tractrix is a bit better in this regard though).
I am not sure if 300 and 1000Hz as crossover points are such a good idea. To be honest, it's very much difficult compromise you're gonna get. The low-mid horn works only 1 1/2 octaves, the other horn whole 4 octaves. That will most likely bring phase problems with it and the low- and the highpass filter (if passive) will likely interfere with each other. I don't know what driver you will be using but that's a huge range for a small 1" driver, the treble resolution most likely won't be ideal or the lower range isn't that 'relaxed' you'd probably liked. I'd really push the xo to 1500Hz which gives the low-mid chassis a little over 2 octaves (which will be no problem at all for the driver or horn) and the xo problem gets easier to solve. That allows you to use a driver with a lighter, bit smaller diaphragm (below 2"/50mm diaphragm size, probably 44 or even 34mm) with a lot better sound high up, is cheaper and easier to get to a linear response. You could also use a smaller horn which doesn't have such a narrow beam high up (old problem with the spherical wave horns because they open so slow, Tractrix is a bit better in this regard though).
That's for your detailed reply. I understand the two octave 'golden rule', although I have used Faital HF200 two inch driver from as low as 500hz to 18,000, with ease and success.
The Altec 420 is nice for bass, I'm using 250 liter cab. I appreciate it is intended as a wide band driver, but I don't need the upper registers. I actually prefer the sound over EV18, Altec 416/515 and Faital 18's I've owned/tested before.
What driver would you look to for 300-1500hz?
Regards
The Altec 420 is nice for bass, I'm using 250 liter cab. I appreciate it is intended as a wide band driver, but I don't need the upper registers. I actually prefer the sound over EV18, Altec 416/515 and Faital 18's I've owned/tested before.
What driver would you look to for 300-1500hz?
Regards
Here's an outstanding DIY thread on Steronet Australia, showing amazing build of CNC'd and lathe turned MDF horns. I love it. It mirrors Romy the Cat's system.
Deep End DIY - My first speaker project - DIY Audio Projects - StereoNET
Deep End DIY - My first speaker project - DIY Audio Projects - StereoNET
Well, the HF200 is 2" (not 1", that's a huge difference) and quite expensive. It's an excellent driver but smaller diaphragms often get still a better resolution/detail in the upper 1-2 octaves.
The FaitalPRO W6N8-120 looks very promising. Very linear in that range, relatively smooth roll-off. Not the highest spl for a midrange 6" though but in the horn still higher than the direct radiating bass. The Celestion NTR06-1705B is a very good choice too, linear and sounds excellent.
If you need more efficiency, the B&C 6MDN44 or the 18s 6ND410 are very good. The chassis will all be pushed by the horn at the lower end, I'm not sure how much of the high spl of the 18s (102dB) you can actually use though.
There are good, cheaper chassis out there too, if these are too expensive.
The FaitalPRO W6N8-120 looks very promising. Very linear in that range, relatively smooth roll-off. Not the highest spl for a midrange 6" though but in the horn still higher than the direct radiating bass. The Celestion NTR06-1705B is a very good choice too, linear and sounds excellent.
If you need more efficiency, the B&C 6MDN44 or the 18s 6ND410 are very good. The chassis will all be pushed by the horn at the lower end, I'm not sure how much of the high spl of the 18s (102dB) you can actually use though.
There are good, cheaper chassis out there too, if these are too expensive.
Thanks...the FP looks v nice....the B&C only USD$100 in PE.
Let's get the smaller horn built first before we tackle the big one. I might look at an easier mid bass, eg Volvotreter 100Hz design with 15 inch driver. Pic attached. (BTW, I built the Yuichi horns in this pic, using CAD/CNC.)
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Some pics from the SNA thread of the Macondo 4 way horn system. Amazing read. The guy is even building his own 8 channel SET amp to run it. Vitavox S2's used for mid channels, RAAL tweeter, Fane driver for mid bass, and x6 8-inch Scanspeak drivers/channel for bass.
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To build a smaller one first is a good idea. The Volvotreter horn works, nothing wrong using that one. If you want to change something later on, you can still build a different one.
The FP is a good choice. The Celestion got an even flatter, broader range but USD$100 sounds great for the FP.
I like the Yuichi horns very much, looks very nice, good job! I have 2 EV HR90 horns laying around, wanted to use them for a very long time. They aren't as nice as the Yuichi horns but well, I already have them (slot drivers too), so I'll build the speakers with it, I hope I can do it in the next few months.
The FP is a good choice. The Celestion got an even flatter, broader range but USD$100 sounds great for the FP.
I like the Yuichi horns very much, looks very nice, good job! I have 2 EV HR90 horns laying around, wanted to use them for a very long time. They aren't as nice as the Yuichi horns but well, I already have them (slot drivers too), so I'll build the speakers with it, I hope I can do it in the next few months.
Thanks. To clarify, I said the B&C driver was US$100...I don't know the price of the FP driver...but I have a friend in Sydney who is a distributor.
Here's another Yuichi I built. This one had CNC done using 1mm increments for easier finishing. Also shown is my own designed large Altec bass horn, using horn loading from 80Hz, plus ported cab for extra bass depth. All CNC'd.
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