Have the option to buy one of these for cheap but can't find any information on the specs, was wondering if anyone had any idea about them/had any insight into whether this is a good amplifier (for use on small PAs for smallish indoor parties)
Nominally 2 * 100watt, originally built for DJ use. Should be good for home parties. I would imagine OK for PA but not HiFi. Citronic now owned by AVSL group.
is 2* 100W not pretty low power for a PA setup? the speakers/subs id be looking to use would be more like 300-400 so would this not work?
The Citronic SA 200 was made in the UK to a very high standard - not to be confused with modern Chinese equivalents.
These were solid, well constructed amps and conservatively rated. When it says 100W per channel, you can be sure that this is a continuous rating suitable for punishing disco use.
These were solid, well constructed amps and conservatively rated. When it says 100W per channel, you can be sure that this is a continuous rating suitable for punishing disco use.
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any help setting this all up? the back of the speaker is two RCAs and two Line inputs, apparently one set of the outputs (on the speaker) goes to a sub? also not sure how to ground the amp.. thanks!
What kind of wacko speakers even are these? RCA or TRS (TS) - huh? 
(And what's that stuck in the left TRS/TS?) They're passive though, aren't they? Some old PA job? Do they even have a name plate/sticker? You might have to take a look at what's going on behind the speaker terminal. If you can see the crossover and drivers used and take some photos (more light!), we might be able to estimate what sort of quality these speakers actually are.
By "THIS UNIT MUST BE EARTHED" I assume they mean it must be connected to an outlet with an actually functional protective earth (it's probably a standard 3-pin IEC power connector at the unit, right?). Like basically any PA power amp this would be an IEC Class I device, whose functional electric safety relies on having a PE connection available. If you're in an average home in the UK, you should not have to worry about this unless your electrical installation is total and utter garbage and decidedly not to code.
This may still give you problems (of the ground loop kind) should you decide to run unbalanced connections into the unit from e.g. a PC. I am very much assuming that the inputs would be a balanced TRS affair. Then the usual measures when connecting studio equipment would be required (powered monitors pose exactly the same problems).
(And what's that stuck in the left TRS/TS?) They're passive though, aren't they? Some old PA job? Do they even have a name plate/sticker? You might have to take a look at what's going on behind the speaker terminal. If you can see the crossover and drivers used and take some photos (more light!), we might be able to estimate what sort of quality these speakers actually are.By "THIS UNIT MUST BE EARTHED" I assume they mean it must be connected to an outlet with an actually functional protective earth (it's probably a standard 3-pin IEC power connector at the unit, right?). Like basically any PA power amp this would be an IEC Class I device, whose functional electric safety relies on having a PE connection available. If you're in an average home in the UK, you should not have to worry about this unless your electrical installation is total and utter garbage and decidedly not to code.
This may still give you problems (of the ground loop kind) should you decide to run unbalanced connections into the unit from e.g. a PC. I am very much assuming that the inputs would be a balanced TRS affair. Then the usual measures when connecting studio equipment would be required (powered monitors pose exactly the same problems).
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Hi again otakar! Have you actually bought the amp?
It has a 3 pin inlet socket so will be earthed via a power cable with a 3 pin plug, so no problems there.
I will try to find out how to use the input sockets on the amp.
The speakers (I presume you've got two) are an unknown quantity - we would need details of make and model, or, as sgrossklass says, would need to look inside them to study the input wiring.
It has a 3 pin inlet socket so will be earthed via a power cable with a 3 pin plug, so no problems there.
I will try to find out how to use the input sockets on the amp.
The speakers (I presume you've got two) are an unknown quantity - we would need details of make and model, or, as sgrossklass says, would need to look inside them to study the input wiring.
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Re input jack sockets on amp, this is my interpretation:
The left channel output from your mixer must terminate in a mono jack plug. Same goes for the right channel output.
Each of the two jacks is then plugged into its designated left or right 'IN' socket on the rear of the amp.
The left channel output from your mixer must terminate in a mono jack plug. Same goes for the right channel output.
Each of the two jacks is then plugged into its designated left or right 'IN' socket on the rear of the amp.
So, update. I went and bought the amp and speakers as I couldn't turn it down for £100. After some trial and error managed to get it working. The speakers are passive and as far as I can work out they are unbranded so may well be a DIY job. Both the amp and speaker are fairly old and were once used to throw warehouse raves around the Bristol area. They are very distinctive due to the decorations on the grill (I'll post more photos when I find the time) so anyone from the area may even recognise them! The guy I bought them off said he thought they were 300W but was not 100% sure. To get them working we linked the RCA inputs on the speakers to the RCA on the amp, then ran an RCA to single jack into the LEFT (stereo) input which got both speakers working. Safe to say its all a bit of a bodge-job but as it stands it all works OK and the speakers go nice and loud without distortion (we have to have the gain on max as the dial is very broken). we opened up the amp and a sticker on the inside indicated the last service was in 1985... they really did used to build things to last.