Hi,
I have a penny and giles pot I'm using as a passive preamp, but it doesn't have a home yet (
I am trying to find somewhere that I can purchase a prefabricated chassis that I can stick the pot into, and run some RCA's out the back. In a perfect world it would look snazzy, perhaps brushed aluminium or something...
If anyone knows of somewhere selling such a chassis, please let me know!
I have a penny and giles pot I'm using as a passive preamp, but it doesn't have a home yet (
I am trying to find somewhere that I can purchase a prefabricated chassis that I can stick the pot into, and run some RCA's out the back. In a perfect world it would look snazzy, perhaps brushed aluminium or something...
If anyone knows of somewhere selling such a chassis, please let me know!
Chassis
Chech out Mark V Electronics. Their web site is weak, but they have tons of kits and chassis. They had a pre-amp one for around $60.00. Brushed aluminum. Cheapest prices I've seen anywhere. You may need to request a catalog, cause I don't remember seening chassis on the site.
They are in Montebello, CA.
Chech out Mark V Electronics. Their web site is weak, but they have tons of kits and chassis. They had a pre-amp one for around $60.00. Brushed aluminum. Cheapest prices I've seen anywhere. You may need to request a catalog, cause I don't remember seening chassis on the site.
They are in Montebello, CA.
Thanks for the tip. Can you direct me to their website (Which will no doubt also have their contact details so I can get a catalog!) 🙂
I don't know Mark V's address. Check out http://www.wssh.net. They have the most links for audio I've ever seen. It's alphabetized!. Mark V is in there, so is everything else!! Good luck!
I messed up, sorry, the link I gave was no good. Try http://www.wssh.net/~wattsup/arsl.html#m. If this don't work, I'll go to the site from my favorites, and I'll send you the link that way.
mark v
okay i tried the site and it was truly meaningless. does anyone have any more information on them or perhaps another source?
okay i tried the site and it was truly meaningless. does anyone have any more information on them or perhaps another source?
Par metal looks good.
You think they ship overseas lol.
Well thanks for the link I will look more into it.
You think they ship overseas lol.
Well thanks for the link I will look more into it.
I'm also looking for a chassis for a pre-amp. Does anybody know if someone would do the custom drilling too? Thanks.
If you want a really neat front panel without too much expense draw up your front panel on your computer including pot/switch/connector cross hairs, reverse it left to right print take down to your photocopy shop and get a clear thick film copy. When you reverse it and fit, the lettering will be inside so not prone to being rubbed off. Coloured panels look pretty good this way and quite cheap.
Drilling doesn't work well with sheet metal, you might end up with a hole which is not round especially if it's a big hole. Better to use a proper cutter or a hole punch.
Richard,
That's a very good idea of making your own label for the front panel. I can draw it up on Acad, mirror it and then plot it out on Mylar, then I'm done! One question though, how do you glue it to the face plate without making a mess underneath the Mylar (it's clearly visible).
That's a very good idea of making your own label for the front panel. I can draw it up on Acad, mirror it and then plot it out on Mylar, then I'm done! One question though, how do you glue it to the face plate without making a mess underneath the Mylar (it's clearly visible).
I use the pots switches and connectors to hold the front panel on and sometimes very small nice looking nuts and bolts at the corners.
I've also used Par Metal cases with success. I haven't tried it -- yet -- but there's a great site, http://www.onlinemetals.com , that sells aluminum, copper, brass and other metals in various form. I'm thinking about constructing a box with, e.g., a copper or brass top plate and aluminum sides (using channel pieces) and bottom. Has anyone tried this?
So far I have not read anybody mentioning about using glass for the top plate. Who does custom glass cutting? For power amp, one would probably want some kind of vent holes on the top.
I'm surprise that I haven't seen too many upscale audio company (except some pre-amps) that uses glass (strong glass) for the top plate to show off the interior. To me, some of the power amps, like Pass amps, looks absolutely beautiful in the inside!
I'm surprise that I haven't seen too many upscale audio company (except some pre-amps) that uses glass (strong glass) for the top plate to show off the interior. To me, some of the power amps, like Pass amps, looks absolutely beautiful in the inside!
Glass is dirt cheap.... just go to any glass provider and give them the specs; they can do the cutting. I once needed several pieces for a HV terminal standoff and didn't spend more than $5.
DRILLING glass, OTOH, is a whole different story. You need speciall bits (designed for ceramic, glass and the like) with a tip that looks a lot like an arrow. About $5 each 🙁... not to mention the patience needed.
DRILLING glass, OTOH, is a whole different story. You need speciall bits (designed for ceramic, glass and the like) with a tip that looks a lot like an arrow. About $5 each 🙁... not to mention the patience needed.
glass might be neat. I for one do not like the look of electrical parts though. That said, I did use 3/16" clear lexan for the back panel of my leach amp. I am not quite finished with the enclosure because the guy who built my chassis gave me unfinished top and bottom plates and in my amateur attempt to finish them i messed them up. so I am waiting until he can bring me the proper tools and polishes to do it right before i finish. the lexan is pretty easy to work with if you've got power tools that can cut a straight line. it scratches easy, but if you cover it in masking tape it protects really well until you are finished working on it. I have drilled holes in the lexan and sort of flush mounted wide angle blue led's. it gives a pretty neat effect.
a tip i will suggest is dont get anything stainless steel with the intention of modifiying it at a later date. The chassis i had built looks really good and all, but good god was it a PITA to work with. went through about 5 cobalt drill bits for a total of about 30 holes and ended up scratching it where one of them broke.
I have thought about using a tinted/smoked plexiglas for the top panel so you couldn't see inside until a light was turned on. glass would be a lot better for this because it wouldn't sag in the middle.
I am really anxious to complete my leach amp and photograph it.
jt
a tip i will suggest is dont get anything stainless steel with the intention of modifiying it at a later date. The chassis i had built looks really good and all, but good god was it a PITA to work with. went through about 5 cobalt drill bits for a total of about 30 holes and ended up scratching it where one of them broke.
I have thought about using a tinted/smoked plexiglas for the top panel so you couldn't see inside until a light was turned on. glass would be a lot better for this because it wouldn't sag in the middle.
I am really anxious to complete my leach amp and photograph it.
jt
jteef beat me to it. Yes, Plexiglas/Lexan/whatever works well, and is easy to work with.
Don't neglect the idea of using it for a front, as opposed to a top. Power LEDs etc. shine nicely through the plastic without even having to drill holes. You can paint the backside to mask anything you don't want seen.
(Can you say McIntosh?)
Grey
Don't neglect the idea of using it for a front, as opposed to a top. Power LEDs etc. shine nicely through the plastic without even having to drill holes. You can paint the backside to mask anything you don't want seen.
(Can you say McIntosh?)
Grey
GRollins said:
Hughes & Kettner (guitar and bass amp manufacturers) use a plexiglass front "engraved" with the company logo that is lit up using blue LEDS... looks quite neat 😀
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