bro said:
He means that you can try replacing the Cerefines with Obbligatos. Since the Obbligatos are quite large compared to the Cerefines, you'll have to secure them to the amp chassis (thus "off-board") and run the leads to the appropriate pads.
In case you don't know of the Obbligato caps, Brian Cherry sells them at www.diyhifisupply.com :
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/diyhs_ob_caps.htm
Best,
KT
Obbligato
Hi
I have used Obbligato's for my Charlize. It's the yellow and black up at the right. It's 3.3uF. The reason it's different color is due to I have removed the outer plastic surrounding the cap. The other caps at the bottom and left, is just to smoth the SMPS (13,2V).
Here is how it looks like outside:
Nice amp by the way. Good tone and great soundstage.
cheers
bjorn
Hi
I have used Obbligato's for my Charlize. It's the yellow and black up at the right. It's 3.3uF. The reason it's different color is due to I have removed the outer plastic surrounding the cap. The other caps at the bottom and left, is just to smoth the SMPS (13,2V).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is how it looks like outside:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Nice amp by the way. Good tone and great soundstage.
cheers
bjorn
Nice work (again) Bjorn! How are those lovely open baffles sounding with Charlize?
The reason that I ask is that when I have tried a class-T amp on my main baffles, it has not integrated as well with the bass that uses GC's.
The reason that I ask is that when I have tried a class-T amp on my main baffles, it has not integrated as well with the bass that uses GC's.
Hi Nuuk
It sounds very nice on my OB's. After introducing a tubepre( 6cg7 ) before the Charlize, I can play loud enough to make it clip, but the overal sound is better than directly from my pot. The standard T-amp (modified) is not as good as the Charlize. The Charlize got a better tone and not so harsh. I think it integrates well with my subs. Crossing at 100hz. But both sub and mainspeaker are driven from my DCX2496, so adjustment between the two are possible. I'm thinkin of getting another Charlize and biamp each speaker (wideband/tweeter). A couple of tubeprojects has to be completed first though 🙂
How are your w-subs going? Pictures?
cheers
Bjorn
It sounds very nice on my OB's. After introducing a tubepre( 6cg7 ) before the Charlize, I can play loud enough to make it clip, but the overal sound is better than directly from my pot. The standard T-amp (modified) is not as good as the Charlize. The Charlize got a better tone and not so harsh. I think it integrates well with my subs. Crossing at 100hz. But both sub and mainspeaker are driven from my DCX2496, so adjustment between the two are possible. I'm thinkin of getting another Charlize and biamp each speaker (wideband/tweeter). A couple of tubeprojects has to be completed first though 🙂
How are your w-subs going? Pictures?
cheers
Bjorn
I agree, the class-T amps benefit from a good pre and the tube types go very well with them! I have never found the t-amps to have a shortage of bass and I think the secret is in the impedance matching.
I'm very nearly ready to try my new baffles and dipole woofers. I just need to finish the new amps and crossovers. Amps are all GC, 3886 x 2 for each dipole woofer and two 3875 (SMPS powered) for main drivers and tweeters).
As ever, time is the problem! 😉
I'm very nearly ready to try my new baffles and dipole woofers. I just need to finish the new amps and crossovers. Amps are all GC, 3886 x 2 for each dipole woofer and two 3875 (SMPS powered) for main drivers and tweeters).
As ever, time is the problem! 😉
I bet they will be nice, both speakers and amps.
How powerfull are the GC driving the basses?
bj
How powerfull are the GC driving the basses?
bj
Each pair of woofers will share a 300VA 25 volt transformer and have their own 10K per rail caps. If it's not enough then I may consider class-D! 😉
Nuuk. Can you post some pics when it is all done ? Which valve pre are you using ? I have just put together an Audiodigit 2020 (Autocostruire) and Ming Da Mc7 valve pre. Sounds fantastic.
lack of soundstage
Hi all!
Have being using my charlize for a few days now and have to say im a little disapointed. Its impressive in a number of areas but compared to my SS amp and t-amp the soundstage is vary flat and its lacking in dynamics. ( ive being reading too many audiophile forums😀 )
Im new to diy so please go easy!!
I was thinking of swapping the air core inductors to ferrite!! would appreciate advice as i can hear this amp does a lot I like..it just seems a bit flat for my tastes..
anybody else find this?
Hi all!
Have being using my charlize for a few days now and have to say im a little disapointed. Its impressive in a number of areas but compared to my SS amp and t-amp the soundstage is vary flat and its lacking in dynamics. ( ive being reading too many audiophile forums😀 )
Im new to diy so please go easy!!
I was thinking of swapping the air core inductors to ferrite!! would appreciate advice as i can hear this amp does a lot I like..it just seems a bit flat for my tastes..
anybody else find this?
a seperately cased switching power supply..
Tried a normal psu from my t-amp ..difference isnt massive apart from the bass. Bass is pretty heavy with the SMPS.
Tried a normal psu from my t-amp ..difference isnt massive apart from the bass. Bass is pretty heavy with the SMPS.
By the way im using three way rogers speakers that arent shy in the bass department. Maybe the heavy bass is muddying the soundstage.
I found Charlize a bit heavy with speakers that have good bass, but perfectly acceptable with single drive units - only problem was audible hiss.
Sounds like your linear psu was somewhat underpowered.
Sounds like your linear psu was somewhat underpowered.
A suggestion to all people listening to this discussion thread ....
The 2020 is a very good chip, but it definitely limited by the supply voltage (no more than 13-14V) and the energy stored in the supply caps (which is proportional to the voltage itself).
Instead of embarking in extremely complex (and costrly) mods of a
2020 board, you should definitely consider going to a similar chip with more watts and more voltage: Tripath TAA4100A .
After owning the original T-Amp and a 2020 board, I finally switched to this one: http://www.audiodigit.com/index.php?section=80.
The chip uses the same Tripath technology, the sound is similar, but is powered at 27V ... and it is really on a different level. You will get more power (and with most speakers it's really welcome) and most of all more agility in music reproduction ... I don't know exactly how to tell it, but it's really like removing a sort of "weight" to the amp: it does the same things but with much more easyness ...
I know there's a price difference, but are you really sure that all that caps and mods cost much less?
And you have also the option of multichannel sound ... see here : http://www.audiodigit.com/index.php?section=76
And if you want ... you can also modify or improve the 100w boards !
😉 I actually added an external 10000 uF cap to the supply (there are two pins on the board just for that) and I got one of the best bass performance I ever listened to.
The 2020 is a very good chip, but it definitely limited by the supply voltage (no more than 13-14V) and the energy stored in the supply caps (which is proportional to the voltage itself).
Instead of embarking in extremely complex (and costrly) mods of a
2020 board, you should definitely consider going to a similar chip with more watts and more voltage: Tripath TAA4100A .
After owning the original T-Amp and a 2020 board, I finally switched to this one: http://www.audiodigit.com/index.php?section=80.
The chip uses the same Tripath technology, the sound is similar, but is powered at 27V ... and it is really on a different level. You will get more power (and with most speakers it's really welcome) and most of all more agility in music reproduction ... I don't know exactly how to tell it, but it's really like removing a sort of "weight" to the amp: it does the same things but with much more easyness ...
I know there's a price difference, but are you really sure that all that caps and mods cost much less?
And you have also the option of multichannel sound ... see here : http://www.audiodigit.com/index.php?section=76
And if you want ... you can also modify or improve the 100w boards !
😉 I actually added an external 10000 uF cap to the supply (there are two pins on the board just for that) and I got one of the best bass performance I ever listened to.
Attachments
Nigel, both email addresses that I have tried for him today have come back as undeliverable so I guess there may be a problem with his connection to the internet rather than him. Let's hope so!
Super-T versus Charlize?
Has anyone here tested these two side by side.
I'm just doing with well worn-in units and the Super T seems to come off much better. It has more gain, punch and seems better in both the highs and lows.
I'm using them mostly on Wharfedale 6's, but I've also tested both on my high-end systems (Sonus Faber Cremonas and B & W 804s)
I'm using the switching supply that came with the super T and also raw 12V battery power. I see no difference here.
Has anyone here tested these two side by side.
I'm just doing with well worn-in units and the Super T seems to come off much better. It has more gain, punch and seems better in both the highs and lows.
I'm using them mostly on Wharfedale 6's, but I've also tested both on my high-end systems (Sonus Faber Cremonas and B & W 804s)
I'm using the switching supply that came with the super T and also raw 12V battery power. I see no difference here.