Hi
I've a pair of Klipsch RP-160m that I'm quite happy with. I wish maybe there were more clarity in the mid and upper area. I came across this forum and thread:
How to make the RP-160M come alive! - Technical/Modifications - The Klipsch Audio Community
Adding more amazingness to the speakers would be sweeet!
I understand that Klipsch RP-160m are a pair of budget speaker and internal parts are not of the highest quality. Can, if the internal parts are replaced with higher quality, improve the soundstage? (Internal cables, capacitors etc.)
My knowledge about modification is very limited (I can unsolder and solder back things, no more than that)
I've a pair of Klipsch RP-160m that I'm quite happy with. I wish maybe there were more clarity in the mid and upper area. I came across this forum and thread:
How to make the RP-160M come alive! - Technical/Modifications - The Klipsch Audio Community
Adding more amazingness to the speakers would be sweeet!
I understand that Klipsch RP-160m are a pair of budget speaker and internal parts are not of the highest quality. Can, if the internal parts are replaced with higher quality, improve the soundstage? (Internal cables, capacitors etc.)
My knowledge about modification is very limited (I can unsolder and solder back things, no more than that)
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Ah! The urge to tinker! I have it too! 🙂
Personally, I'd only look to upgrading the capacitors and wouldn't bother with installing the low value bypass capacitors.
A good quality polypropylene on the tweeter and a good quality electrolytic on the mid/bass.
And I would choose physical sizes that would not require me to scrap the existing printed circuit board!
Changing the internal wiring is very, very unlikely to provide an audible difference considering how short it is.
This should be a link to the stock crossover board. Stock crossover - Members Albums Category - The Klipsch Audio Community
Personally, I'd only look to upgrading the capacitors and wouldn't bother with installing the low value bypass capacitors.
A good quality polypropylene on the tweeter and a good quality electrolytic on the mid/bass.
And I would choose physical sizes that would not require me to scrap the existing printed circuit board!
Changing the internal wiring is very, very unlikely to provide an audible difference considering how short it is.
This should be a link to the stock crossover board. Stock crossover - Members Albums Category - The Klipsch Audio Community
P.S. Don't expect an amazing difference in sound quality, and guard yourself against ridiculous claims such as this one from your link!
Bypass means solder across in parallel. You will get 95% better sound.
Many thanks for replying!
I believe these small changes can add some more sweetness to the sound. High quality components are there for a reason? I don't expect a whole new different speaker but maybe a little bit more refined than before 🙂
Why only capacitors?
What good components can be recommended for tweeter and mid/bass?
Is it just to look at the current specs on the current components and choose the same with a better high quality brand?
I believe these small changes can add some more sweetness to the sound. High quality components are there for a reason? I don't expect a whole new different speaker but maybe a little bit more refined than before 🙂
Personally, I'd only look to upgrading the capacitors and wouldn't bother with installing the low value bypass capacitors.
Why only capacitors?
A good quality polypropylene on the tweeter and a good quality electrolytic on the mid/bass.
And I would choose physical sizes that would not require me to scrap the existing printed circuit board!
What good components can be recommended for tweeter and mid/bass?
Is it just to look at the current specs on the current components and choose the same with a better high quality brand?
You know just whilly nilly changing parts is a bad idea. For example Inductors have DCR that can have a significant effect on the crossover and FR of the system.
I love these guys no measurements before or after to see if there was any impact or to verify they didn't screw it up. Just a bunch of testimonials from what could be the deafest guy you ever met.
Rob 🙂
I love these guys no measurements before or after to see if there was any impact or to verify they didn't screw it up. Just a bunch of testimonials from what could be the deafest guy you ever met.
Rob 🙂
Changing capacitors for ones of the same type is a relatively benign thing to do compared to changing inductors for the reason that Robh has just mentioned.Why only capacitors?
A different type of inductor will have a different DC resistance (DCR) which will upset the balance of the crossover network - so you would have to perform measurements of DCR and duplicate it when substituting new inductors.
I am not one who considers that changing an adequately rated ceramic (wire wound) resistor will make an audible difference.
Regarding recommended capacitors, it would be helpful to know in which country you are based (to identify an appropriate supplier) as well as the maximum physical size that can be fitted onto the circuit board.
You can change the inductors to thicker gauge type, for sure sound will change but with thicker gauge wire DCR will drop, hence to prevent skewing up the response of the XO network, you've got to add a series power resistor with total resistance equivilent to the dcr of the original inductor.
if the internal parts are replaced with higher quality, improve the soundstage? (Internal cables, capacitors etc.)
Ceramic disc capacitors (as recommended in that forum) are about the very worst type of capacitors available.
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Btw for those who don't think resistors will affect sound, I would encourage you to do some experiments.
You know just whilly nilly changing parts is a bad idea. For example Inductors have DCR that can have a significant effect on the crossover and FR of the system.
I love these guys no measurements before or after to see if there was any impact or to verify they didn't screw it up. Just a bunch of testimonials from what could be the deafest guy you ever met.
Rob 🙂
If capacitors just need to be replaced by soldering, then I can do it.
Anything else beyond this will be left untouched.
My goal with this thread (I guess many out there have the same knowledge like me) is to ask the experties here what we, with almost no knowledge, can do to improve the speaker.
Changing capacitors for ones of the same type is a relatively benign thing to do compared to changing inductors for the reason that Robh has just mentioned.
A different type of inductor will have a different DC resistance (DCR) which will upset the balance of the crossover network - so you would have to perform measurements of DCR and duplicate it when substituting new inductors.
I am not one who considers that changing an adequately rated ceramic (wire wound) resistor will make an audible difference.
Regarding recommended capacitors, it would be helpful to know in which country you are based (to identify an appropriate supplier) as well as the maximum physical size that can be fitted onto the circuit board.
You can change the inductors to thicker gauge type, for sure sound will change but with thicker gauge wire DCR will drop, hence to prevent skewing up the response of the XO network, you've got to add a series power resistor with total resistance equivilent to the dcr of the original inductor.
Inductors are well beyond my knowledge so I will leave them.
So, in other words, capacitors are the only modification to do (with my knowledge)? Is it worth then?
Some will say it's worth it, but I'm more in tune with Cal!So, in other words, capacitors are the only modification to do (with my knowledge)? Is it worth then?
Having said that, upgrading the capacitors may cement your bond with these speakers - as well as void the warranty!
At least, you'll no longer fret that you're missing out on a possible improvement - the proof will be in the pudding!
The budget nature of the whole of the RP-600M speaker, not just the crossover, is revealed upon dismantling!Watch this YouTube video by speaker design wiz, Danny Ritchie - YouTube
No greater justification for putting the $550 retail price + the quoted $200 for the crossover upgrade towards building a better quality diy speaker!
Damping standing waves within the cabinet will probably yield best improvements. For a bass reflex like this, try thick felt on the walls. Though maybe it is already so equipped...
There are many things that can be done to alter the sound but will it be an improvement? No one knows, so if you are happy with them, leave well enough alone. Changing caps or altering the internal damping may not head you in the right direction, it may in fact decrease your enjoyment.
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