CD diaphragm interchangeability

Hi everyone .
Do you think it is possible to interchange the diaphragms of the CD?. I give an example, changing a titanium or beryllium diaphragm with a textreme or aluminum or plastic diaphragm. you can buy CDs without diaphragm to have the possibility to choose which type to mount?. TAD does it?.
thanks bye.
Yes you can change them with a fitting diaphragm.
No you can't buy a TAD, new from factory without a diaphragm.
You can fit the Radian Alu aftermarket diaphragms, 1292 for example.
Also be aware you can't simply unscrew a TAD diaphragm and tighten down a new one and go, you meed to sweep them and adjust for proper alignment etc. Some newer CD's have self centering diaphragm assemblies that makes it easier/quicker.

if that was all you wondered about`?
what does "sweep them" mean?
Sine wave frequency sweep.

Alignment pins or rings on JBL/TAD diaphragms generally will center the diaphragm adequately to prevent rubbing and buzzing, but they do not guarantee it.

A narrow frequency band, sometimes only a few Hz wide, may trigger a “buzz” distortion. For that reason, misalignment distortion may not be at all evident except with certain musical passages, making music, pink noise, or even specifically spaced sine wave tones near useless for alignment.

In most cases, low frequencies of several octaves below the usual pass band will make the harmonic distortion most audible. After determining a reasonable mid pass band output level, slowly sweep from 200 Hz up, listening for "buzz". Most times the range between 200 Hz to 800 Hz will reveal the "buzzing", but I have found a few diaphragms that only buzzed when driven at anywhere from 800 Hz to 5kHz or so.

The horn, or even the long throats of "old school" drivers like Altec, JBL, or TAD makes the diaphragm output much louder, which will mask a dragging voice coil distortion component. Removing the driver from the horn, or stuffing the horn with rags, or laying it mouth down on a rug or carpet makes the buzz easier to hear.
Next, remove the diaphragm, fully clean the magnetic gap with tape, check that the gap is symmetrical with a depth gauge which can be made from paper card stock, if not symmetrical it must be made so.
To align the diaphragm, re-install the diaphragm with it's screws just loose enough to not rattle, but tight enough to allow one to tap a portion of the screw ring in the direction that eliminates the buzz, then re-sweep to determine this did not cause a buzz at a different frequency, then tighten the screws fully, and test again. Lather, rinse, repeat ;^).
Even with many modern diaphragms supposedly "self aligning", they often ain't.

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