Hello
I bought on a flee-market a good Philips cd 300. Wanted to use it untill my 4 parallel 1541a project is finished. But after listening it i realized this player is not bad at all.
The 6 cm high transport with glass lens supplied CDM 0 gives a very relaxed sound, sometimes a little analog sounding as far as this is possible?? The highs are a little rough though.
Have a few ideas for the cd 300:
*modifi it (heavily) and keep dual 1540 in it, or
*solder dual 1540 out and solder in dual pcm63k (after 16 bit signal) or:
*dig out on it and use it as a transport
What decision would be best?
And has someone a tip to get a service manual or only a schematic? ( As i am a dutchman, for free???
)
Tubee
I bought on a flee-market a good Philips cd 300. Wanted to use it untill my 4 parallel 1541a project is finished. But after listening it i realized this player is not bad at all.
The 6 cm high transport with glass lens supplied CDM 0 gives a very relaxed sound, sometimes a little analog sounding as far as this is possible?? The highs are a little rough though.
Have a few ideas for the cd 300:
*modifi it (heavily) and keep dual 1540 in it, or
*solder dual 1540 out and solder in dual pcm63k (after 16 bit signal) or:
*dig out on it and use it as a transport
What decision would be best?
And has someone a tip to get a service manual or only a schematic? ( As i am a dutchman, for free???
)Tubee
Found some Philips schematics at:
http://www.wmanshande.nl/PSM SCHEMA 10.htm
Comments: When purchasing PCM 63 (and Dig filter 1700/1704??) it has to be on a separate pcb, not instead of tda1540, but maybe 16 bit PCM 53 or 56 are better choice.
Tubee
http://www.wmanshande.nl/PSM SCHEMA 10.htm
Comments: When purchasing PCM 63 (and Dig filter 1700/1704??) it has to be on a separate pcb, not instead of tda1540, but maybe 16 bit PCM 53 or 56 are better choice.
Tubee
Replacing the 1540's are going to be difficoult as the old chipset didn't use i2s, but a earlier format. You would need some glue logic to convert it. If you find a solution, I would certainly like to know.
In the meantime,you could start out by replacing all the old electrolytics, especially those in the psu. The output opamp to something better and the output caps are horrible tantaliums if I remember correctly.
In the meantime,you could start out by replacing all the old electrolytics, especially those in the psu. The output opamp to something better and the output caps are horrible tantaliums if I remember correctly.
When i have a schematic we will see what is possible. Also on this site more information to find.(cd 104 and more have same chipset)
Don't tell everyone, the marketprice will raise!!
For example: a studiomix with popular music is not alwais R, L and around middle, but also "twisting" or "phaseshifting effects" and so on (e.g. Lenny Gravitz, Mamma said) they are very obvious with this cd300. Btw experienced those effects more obvious also when connected a 1541 player in non-os mode.
But as i said the highs of 1540 are not perfect, the 1541 outperforms the 1540 in treble in my point of vieuw.
Tubee
tubee said:Hello
I bought on a flee-market a good Philips cd 300. Wanted to use it untill my 4 parallel 1541a project is finished. But after listening it i realized this player is not bad at all.
The 6 cm high transport with glass lens supplied CDM 0 gives a very relaxed sound, sometimes a little analog sounding as far as this is possible?? The highs are a little rough though.
Have a few ideas for the cd 300:
*modifi it (heavily) and keep dual 1540 in it, or
*solder dual 1540 out and solder in dual pcm63k (after 16 bit signal) or:
*dig out on it and use it as a transport
What decision would be best?
And has someone a tip to get a service manual or only a schematic? ( As i am a dutchman, for free???
Tubee
Why not put your 4*1541a project in there. It should be possible to hook them up in 'parallel' mode before the dig filter (so nos) without using i2s.
Was mentioned before here, but i never heard anybody that tried
Keep it original.Just replace the caps.
Why?
It will become a classic.Unmodified that is.
Something like a 304 is far easier to work on,has a groundplane(something a 200/202 or 300/303 lacks),will eventually sound better.And the 304 will never become such a valuable classic.
(just have a look on ebay!)
oh, and work esd-safe.some chips are very sensitive.Most players that have been worked on,without precautions, sound greyish.
The chap from-
http://www.wmanshande.nl/PSM SCHEMA 10.htm
-wants 8.80 euri for 65 pages and rounded price to 8,- In a few days wil have pdf
Maybe someone else who managed this succesful? (put 1541 without I2S in old players)
I wonderded about soundquality with the standard grey RCA cord and connectors, oxidated and worn brass ones!
It is a classic already, so this is probably the best decision.
But have to check for dry solderjoints, last night some tracking problems accompanied with noise on speakers.
Tubee
http://www.wmanshande.nl/PSM SCHEMA 10.htm
-wants 8.80 euri for 65 pages and rounded price to 8,- In a few days wil have pdf
Maybe someone else who managed this succesful? (put 1541 without I2S in old players)
Thanks for advise tda1540
I wonderded about soundquality with the standard grey RCA cord and connectors, oxidated and worn brass ones!
It is a classic already, so this is probably the best decision.
But have to check for dry solderjoints, last night some tracking problems accompanied with noise on speakers.
Tubee
Checked it: The cd-300 is built like a tank, double metal casework and full of pcb's, not easy to put something extra in.
My 4 parallel 1541 dac project is going to be built from a CD-660 with cdm-4, in a new dampened housing, remote control (very convenient) and so on.
The only thing: do not like the long shielded cables from CDM4 to radial drive pcb's. Maybe those long connections are shorter in a 304 with cdm-1?
Tubee
CD304mkII is technically better because of lower distortion and digital out, but sometimes i prefere CD304 because harmonic and subharmonic distortions add drive to electric guitars 
I would stay away from older players like CD100, CD300, CD303, their servo and audio electronics fail more often.
There are 4 mkII in my collection and I could give one away but shipping to the other end of the world would be terrible expensive.
I would stay away from older players like CD100, CD300, CD303, their servo and audio electronics fail more often.
There are 4 mkII in my collection and I could give one away but shipping to the other end of the world would be terrible expensive.
Correct TDA 1540
This """BEEP""" overhere first makes a solid housing for the cd player, and then comes to that same idea!
Because i like "flat" casings there is no room! But made bottom of mdf / acryllic / lead sandwich, maybe when i cut out some mdf and bend lytics down a little it wil just fit, we'll see.
In meantime thought it out: Keep CD-300 original, use with tubed pre-amp to 10W JLH amps or my EL84 SE tubeamp to ML-TQWT's with SPH-60X fullrange, i'm sure this is gonna sing!! Have to build the tqwp's then in future. No mega-buck gear, but when you hear it...
Tubee
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