hello!
i have an amplifier (50W x 2 +100W), 2 full range drivers (8ohm) and subwoofer (2ohm). i want to know if the sub is compatible and how to set it up. currently, when i connect the subwoofer through its integrated amp, the subwoofer has very low volume.
the amp has a phoenix connector with 6 ports (4x ports for left and right, 2x ports for subwoofer).
AMPLIFIER
Maximum 50W x 2 +100W powerful output
power input: 12V-24V/DC in
speaker impedance: 4-8Ω (Stereo)/2-4Ω(Sub)
speaker power:
2x50W@4Ω + 100W@2Ω BTL load at 24V
2x30W@8Ω + 75W@4Ω BTL load at 24V
2x22W@8Ω + 48W@4Ω BTL load at 19V
2x15W@8Ω + 30W@4Ω m BLT load at 15V
2 full range drivers:
Nominal Impedance 8 Ω
DC resistance, Re 6.0 Ω
Rated power handling* 40 W
Subwoofer: (i legit found this on my stoop to be thrown away and saved it, this is link to alike system)
2 ohm (found on back of woofer driver)
110-220V 60Hz AC
Power rating: 70W
Power: 110V 60Hz AC
please help me, is this woofer compatible with my system? why is it so low in sound? can/should i connect the driver directly to my amp (i would have to cut the chords currently connecting the woofer to the woofer's integrated amp)?
oh and the power chord connecting my amp to the wall is this , but i tried it also with a 19V power chord and the same soft volume issue pursued.
i have an amplifier (50W x 2 +100W), 2 full range drivers (8ohm) and subwoofer (2ohm). i want to know if the sub is compatible and how to set it up. currently, when i connect the subwoofer through its integrated amp, the subwoofer has very low volume.
the amp has a phoenix connector with 6 ports (4x ports for left and right, 2x ports for subwoofer).
AMPLIFIER
Maximum 50W x 2 +100W powerful output
power input: 12V-24V/DC in
speaker impedance: 4-8Ω (Stereo)/2-4Ω(Sub)
speaker power:
2x50W@4Ω + 100W@2Ω BTL load at 24V
2x30W@8Ω + 75W@4Ω BTL load at 24V
2x22W@8Ω + 48W@4Ω BTL load at 19V
2x15W@8Ω + 30W@4Ω m BLT load at 15V
2 full range drivers:
Nominal Impedance 8 Ω
DC resistance, Re 6.0 Ω
Rated power handling* 40 W
Subwoofer: (i legit found this on my stoop to be thrown away and saved it, this is link to alike system)
2 ohm (found on back of woofer driver)
110-220V 60Hz AC
Power rating: 70W
Power: 110V 60Hz AC
please help me, is this woofer compatible with my system? why is it so low in sound? can/should i connect the driver directly to my amp (i would have to cut the chords currently connecting the woofer to the woofer's integrated amp)?
oh and the power chord connecting my amp to the wall is this , but i tried it also with a 19V power chord and the same soft volume issue pursued.
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To be clear, you have found an active subwoofer (with built in amp and power supply), but want to run its subwoofer driver from your 50W x 2 +100W amplifier instead?
It therefore appears you should connect the subwoofer driver to your external amp after disconnecting it from its internal amp, and the internal amp from the 60 Hz AC supply.
EDIT: To run the 2 ohm subwoofer from your external amp, it appears you need a 24 V power supply and not the 12 V one you are currently using. It also requires to have a higher current rating.
It therefore appears you should connect the subwoofer driver to your external amp after disconnecting it from its internal amp, and the internal amp from the 60 Hz AC supply.
EDIT: To run the 2 ohm subwoofer from your external amp, it appears you need a 24 V power supply and not the 12 V one you are currently using. It also requires to have a higher current rating.
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A power supply like this 24 V; 8 A one is more like the thing, but more amps would be better to provide headroom:
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Sw...4+v+power+supply,electronics,187&sr=1-14&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Sw...4+v+power+supply,electronics,187&sr=1-14&th=1
The integrated amp is likely to be faulty, explaining why the active sub was discarded.
You should check the raw subwoofer driver carefully before connecting it to your external amplifier.
Use your multimeter to measure its DC resistance for a start.
galu thank you so much!
ok i used my multimeter and the woofer reads as 2.6 DC resistance.
I disconnected the woofer from the internal amp, connected it to my external amp, and increased the power supply voltage to 19V (il wait before buying a new power chord), this (connecting the woofer to my external amp directly) made the volume sound normal.
the thing is, the integrated woofer amp appears to be working, so i dont know what was the problem when i tried to go through its integrated amp? when using the integrated amp, if i switch the integrated amp to use source FM radio input, the woofer is booming. any idea what it could be ?
ok i used my multimeter and the woofer reads as 2.6 DC resistance.
I disconnected the woofer from the internal amp, connected it to my external amp, and increased the power supply voltage to 19V (il wait before buying a new power chord), this (connecting the woofer to my external amp directly) made the volume sound normal.
the thing is, the integrated woofer amp appears to be working, so i dont know what was the problem when i tried to go through its integrated amp? when using the integrated amp, if i switch the integrated amp to use source FM radio input, the woofer is booming. any idea what it could be ?
I would need to know more about the active sub, its inputs and its capabilities - even then I might be stumped! Can you supply a link to the make and model?
I seem to have been slow on the uptake (not unusual!). Is it the fact that you would rather use the active subwoofer than connecting its subwoofer driver to the dedicated 100 W subwoofer section of your external amp board?
EDIT: I see you have provided a link to a similar active subwoofer.
I seem to have been slow on the uptake (not unusual!). Is it the fact that you would rather use the active subwoofer than connecting its subwoofer driver to the dedicated 100 W subwoofer section of your external amp board?
EDIT: I see you have provided a link to a similar active subwoofer.
Are you using the AUX R and L Audio Inputs of the active woofer?
If so, what signal are you feeding into them?
If so, what signal are you feeding into them?
If I’m feeding Aux R and L audio inputs from the woofer amp to my dedicated 100 W subwoofer section of your external amp board, this creates low volume
If I’m feeding directly from the back of my woofer driver directly to my dedicated 100 W subwoofer section of your external amp board, this creates normal volume
Yes I wanted to use the subwoofers amp rather than only my amp, not sure why, but it felt more appropriate given there were any direct wires to the back of the driver.
As long as I’m not damaging anything by feeding the woofer driver directly to my external amp, then that’s ok.
I actually am wondering now if my amp already naturally directs all low frequencies to the subwoofer channel, even if nothing is plugged in there. I think this because of the notes I see about the crossover, and I see how the bass and treble knobs directly affect the loudness of the woofer when it’s connected, but when it’s not connected it doesn’t change much to my full range. If so that is unfortunate as perhaps my full range could handle some of those lower frequencies
Power Button
Device on:
Short press once: Switch input mode
Long press once: Switch off
Short press twice: Disconnect current WiFi connection and enter paring mode (WiFi mode)；
Disconnect current connected Bluetooth device (Bluetooth mode)
Short press three times: Restore the factory settings
Device off:
Short press: Switch on
Volume Knob
Short press once: Switch input mode
Treble Knob
Short press once: Reset treble level to 0
Long press 5secs: Increase crossover frequency by 10Hz
(Crossover frequency range from 80-200Hz, default 110hz)
Bass Knob
Short press once: Reset bass level to 0
Long press 5secs: decrease crossover frequency by 10Hz
(Crossover frequency range from 80-200Hz, default 110hz)
If I’m feeding directly from the back of my woofer driver directly to my dedicated 100 W subwoofer section of your external amp board, this creates normal volume
Yes I wanted to use the subwoofers amp rather than only my amp, not sure why, but it felt more appropriate given there were any direct wires to the back of the driver.
As long as I’m not damaging anything by feeding the woofer driver directly to my external amp, then that’s ok.
I actually am wondering now if my amp already naturally directs all low frequencies to the subwoofer channel, even if nothing is plugged in there. I think this because of the notes I see about the crossover, and I see how the bass and treble knobs directly affect the loudness of the woofer when it’s connected, but when it’s not connected it doesn’t change much to my full range. If so that is unfortunate as perhaps my full range could handle some of those lower frequencies
Power Button
Device on:
Short press once: Switch input mode
Long press once: Switch off
Short press twice: Disconnect current WiFi connection and enter paring mode (WiFi mode)；
Disconnect current connected Bluetooth device (Bluetooth mode)
Short press three times: Restore the factory settings
Device off:
Short press: Switch on
Volume Knob
Short press once: Switch input mode
Treble Knob
Short press once: Reset treble level to 0
Long press 5secs: Increase crossover frequency by 10Hz
(Crossover frequency range from 80-200Hz, default 110hz)
Bass Knob
Short press once: Reset bass level to 0
Long press 5secs: decrease crossover frequency by 10Hz
(Crossover frequency range from 80-200Hz, default 110hz)
The AUX L and R jacks are Audio inputs, it should not used as outputs.
According to the specification of your Arylic 2.1 amp board, it can handle 2-4Ω subwoofer driver, so that is OK.
Yes, your Arylic 2.1 amplifier board has a built-in 80-200Hz adjustable crossover.
If no subwoofer driver is connected to the amplifier board, the left and right channel speakers can only go down to a minimum of 80Hz, which defaults to 110Hz.
Omg that’s wild, I have used this amp on 3 different projects and listened to those speakers a loooot and it didn’t sound like it was only hitting 110 hertz (it sounded like it was hitting 50 at least). We even measured them with a microphone and it showed it was going down that low!
Having destroyed a couple of 3116D2s connected to 3 ohm subs I don't recommend a 2 ohm load if you intend to run at full power for extended periods.
oh nice thanks for the heads up
3116D2s is the amp type i have ya?
also what do you define as extended periods? were you using 24V power supply?
3116D2s is the amp type i have ya?
also what do you define as extended periods? were you using 24V power supply?
The first was destroyed during a barbecue: full power for 6hrs using 21V. Ironically, the stereo amps still work fine. The replacement unit still works but hasn't been subjected to same punishment. The second used 19.5V but I believe that was a design fault. It really did need a bigger heat-sink.
In defence of cheap Chinese retailers, both boards were replaced with debate.