Can I do anything else with this driver???

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You could use it in a sealed box with a Linkwitz Transform circuit. The FR curve is nice.

I checked sealed enclosures and vented enclosures, this is the only option I found out. Sealed only or vented is not possible.

Maybe you could use it for a dipole subwoofer or for a TL or a Horn?
 
ive heard someware along time ago... that IB subs work well in 4th order bandpass enclosers, but that could be one of those B.S. things too. eg: "pioneer freeair car subs('95 era) pound hard in a car in a pandpass box"
i heard of it, but never believed it nor heard it. couldn't hurt to try though...
 
sid216 said:
ive heard someware along time ago... that IB subs work well in 4th order bandpass enclosers, but that could be one of those B.S. things too. eg: "pioneer freeair car subs('95 era) pound hard in a car in a pandpass box"
i heard of it, but never believed it nor heard it. couldn't hurt to try though...

I often used the pioneer freeair subs in both bandpass and vented enclosures, I prefered them (from a performance, idiotproofing standpoint) over the sealed series at the time.

Mind you the response curve you have/want to aim for in a car with a bandpass enclosure is miles apart from what you'd want in a home sub.
 
The Paulinator said:
Hmmmm, that looks like it might be fun to try. ... I can't find any info on how to figure the dimensions of the cabinet.
The Ripole cabinet should be just high and deep enough to fit the driver - nothing more. The area of the opening on the front side of the cone should be 1/4 of the cone area. The volume at the back should ideally be identical to the volume at front, which obviously isn´t possible. So try to keep it as small as possible.

You will get a resonance peak of ~10 dB somewhere between 200-300 Hz, which you need not bother too much about if you cut with a steep lowpass @80 Hz.

But you need some kind of equalisation because of the 6 dB/oct. dipole roll off. This could easily be done with a passive line level X-over in front of the monoblock. It will set you back less than 5 $.
So you really should give it a try.
 
That sounds good except I don't quite understand what you mean by "the area of the opening on the front side of the cone". Do you mean the slot at the front that the air comes out of, or do you mean the total cubic inches 9 (or whatever) of the area in front of the driver before the opening? Maybe there is a picture you know of that will help me visualize what you mean.

Thanks a million for the advice, by the way. I'm excited to try this.
 
This is actually pretty cool. I've been thinking of picking up some of those PE IB woofers. They should work pretty well as dipoles - there isn't too much feedback out there on them, but one guy indicated that they didn't seem to be too bad in terms of chuffing etc.

I'm in a position of having to put my speakers directly in the corner. The idea of a dipole baffle coming straight out of the corner at 45-degrees is one possibility, but I'm also curious if the ripole idea might work as well. Not sure how placement would go - spaced out somewhat from the corner, with the back firing straight into the corner maybe? Rudolf - have you tried any setups with corner placement of the ripole?
 
The Paulinator said:
what you mean by "the area of the opening on the front side of the cone"? Do you mean the slot at the front that the air comes out of

Exactly! That slot area should be 1/3-1/4 of the cone area. By making this area small you lower the resonant frequency of the system.

Since Ripoles are just another kind of dipole they should be positioned in the same way. There needs to be some place in the back of a Ripole - about 1m. And in contrary to normal subs, which get reinforcement in a corner, a dipole is best reinforced in the middle of the room!

dwk123 - please get some more information regarding the placement of dipoles before jumping into this. This has been discussed in this forum in length.

I add two picture which might give you an idea of the construction of a Ripole:
 

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So from the looks of it I just need the back opening to be as small as it can be, taking into account the depth of the driver, and the front should be what you described. It's kinda hard to believe it could be that easy.

I wonder if Im gonna need a little line level eq like you were talking about.

I'll do it this weekend and let you know how it goes. I'll find a temporary amp somewhere.
 
The Paulinator said:
It's kinda hard to believe it could be that easy.
I wonder if Im gonna need a little line level eq like you were talking about.

Box-wise it is really that easy.
But the equalisation is the most important part of the game! You will definitely be dissapointed without it!
If you could give me the output impedance of your preamp (or whatever you use), the input impedance of your poweramp and your intended X-over frequency, I could simulate the PLLXO for you.
To give you a better idea of what I am talking about, please look at this ripole with its conventional passive Xover:
http://www.lautsprechershop.de/hifi/ripol_en.htm
To minimize the volume of the back "chamber" they even let the magnet look through.
 
Hey, I like it!

I've been bothering y'all with some Q's about 'what to do with these 10"-ers I had laying'round' (Tried a WO-36 with them once, wanted a LTF etc.)
Read about these ripoles again today, and bought some MDF today. Just finished one, and I'm impressed...
This is so much more acceptable than a 200+ liter cabinet! And soundwise? Can't tell... kids are asleep... But Erik Truffaz' 'The Dawn' gives me some very tight bass now, and it goes WAY down!! ... Coool!

Rudolf said:

But you need some kind of equalisation because of the 6 dB/oct. dipole roll off. This could easily be done with a passive line level X-over in front of the monoblock. It will set you back less than 5 $.
Okay, How do I do this? Or more precisely: What is the aim of the X-over I'd need to build?
Right-now I run him(her?) off my sub-amp with lowpass, no more, no less...

Merci, Paul (Happy!)
 
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