Building a openbaffle with goldwood h frame need good fullrange

Well guys I sold my gallos and taking the plunge into openbaffle!
I have the MJK H-Frames and would like a good
Full range to top it.the H-frames will be driven by a electon kinetics eagle 400 and the full range with a transcendent SEOTL crossed over with the Dahlquist LP-1
Any vote on witch full range driver to use?
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Any vote on witch full range driver to use?

Hi Bigfishe - with all of the development work the he, and his team, have been putting into design and development I'm just going crazy to try out some of the new Mark Audio drivers. I'll need to go over to his site and take a look at which one to put on my wish list for an OB - most likely to go into a FAST configuration. :D
1.5 watts? - THAT makes things a bit of a challenge Hmmmmm. Even the most efficient drivers I can think of running on that amount of limited power will get to around a 100db's max and while that is loud it will play the devil with dynamics. A good horn tweeter comes to mind but then things start getting messy with how high can you take the woofer vs. how low can the horn go.
Funny to discuss the inexpensive Goldwood used with lowther and seas exotic drivers. I think that shows we're in it for the music rather than the stuff that makes the music. Many might dismiss such a combination.

I'd imagine the Fostex 126e would work with 1.5 watt... every fostex i've tried seem very easily driven... but the seas might not nor would the css mentioned above... tho i've tried neither.

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>>> a matching pair of 200 W SS amps.

That must sound horrible with the fostex 126.

My thinking on amps is that a good amp should only boost the signal without adding or subtracting significantly from the original source signal.

I have a tube amp, a 15 watt EL84 based design. I have heard it sound great on one and only one pair of speakers (unfortunately they were not mine and they did not sound as good driven by SS). I have heard it sound really poor on half a dozen other sets of speakers (both mine and a few other people's). Its performance is strongly dependent on the speaker load so it is a crap shoot everytime I hook it up. IMO it is not very accurate and I view it as a random tone controlled amp. It is currently sitting in the corner of my room where I don't have to see it. If you can swap tubes and get a different sound then I have to question how accurate the tube amp really is at reproducing a source signal. You can tell which tubes you like but how do you tell which tubes are accurate.

On the other hand, my matching 200 W SS amps (I actually have three) have sounded great on just about anything I hook them up to regardless of speaker load. If the sound sucks it is the speaker design and not the amp. That has been my experience with several decent SS amps. A decent SS amp is at the 95% of highest quality sound point and spending more money on a better amp is working on the last 5%, speakers and the room are a different story with much more potential for improvement through design and better drivers.

I have had very few complaints from tube amp people when thay have heard my different speaker designs over the past 10 years. I thought about buying a different tube amp or two over the past year and kept coming back to my expereince, it would be a crap shoot when connecting it to my speakers. Reports from several people who have built one of my passive dipole designs are that they did not have much success with tube amps combined with the load applied by the speakers, SS has worked better every time.

I will gladly stick with my matching 200 W SS amps. I know the tube amp fanatics won't like or agree with my experience or observations, so be it they have my condolences.