Hey Diy Audio Crew!
This first post here, don't be to hard on me:')
in the planning stage of building a pa loudspeaker, including six 6" woofers, rated at 75w rms each. (Dayton Audio PA165-8 6)
wondering what sort of cross-over components won't blow at 450 wats. going to cross it over probably at 2500 hz or earlier.
also thinking of using the Pyramid TW44 Heavy Duty Titanium Super Tweeter with the included crossover. (posting that here in case people see a fault in my parts choice.)
just having struggles with finding cross-over components that won't blow. 🙂
all parts on parts express if you want to look it up.
This first post here, don't be to hard on me:')
in the planning stage of building a pa loudspeaker, including six 6" woofers, rated at 75w rms each. (Dayton Audio PA165-8 6)
wondering what sort of cross-over components won't blow at 450 wats. going to cross it over probably at 2500 hz or earlier.
also thinking of using the Pyramid TW44 Heavy Duty Titanium Super Tweeter with the included crossover. (posting that here in case people see a fault in my parts choice.)
just having struggles with finding cross-over components that won't blow. 🙂
all parts on parts express if you want to look it up.
also would love to just order all the parts in one go, instead of having to do measurements, and then build the x-over. but i should probably just build the speaker. take the measurements, and then build the x-over.
Your capacitors won't see power in Watts. A simulator can be used to show maximum voltage they'll see. Consider the current through inductors and how their resistance will cause heat within them. Inductors usually aren't specified this way, you'll want to confirm your own situation by monitoring them, which means feeling and smelling them as you go.
Xsim does have neat tools like that. Make sure to set your amplifier power first through the amplifier block on the schematic.
450 watts depends on load how much voltage
needed to reach power levels.
root mean square or RMS
To get 450 watts to a 8 ohm load 60 volts RMS, peak to peak closer to 170 volts
450 watts to 4 ohms 42 volts RMS , peak to peak 118 volts
450 watts to 4 ohms close to 11 amps current.
So with modern cheap switching supplies. I dont think
it actually does 450 watts constantly. Maybe a quick bench test.
" super tweeters" or I assume " "Bullet" style tweeters.
Impedance curve or impedance peak closer to usually 3000 Hz
So crossover would be more like 5000 to 6000 Hz
to keep them from squawking with distortion.
You could go down to 4000 Hz but would recommend
a 3rd order or 18 dB filter for sound quality and power handling.
If you want Off axis to be close to 45 degrees
6" speaker off axis close to 2500 Hz maybe 3000 Hz
So be a larger horn and diaphragm to cross at 3000 Hz
needed to reach power levels.
root mean square or RMS
To get 450 watts to a 8 ohm load 60 volts RMS, peak to peak closer to 170 volts
450 watts to 4 ohms 42 volts RMS , peak to peak 118 volts
450 watts to 4 ohms close to 11 amps current.
So with modern cheap switching supplies. I dont think
it actually does 450 watts constantly. Maybe a quick bench test.
" super tweeters" or I assume " "Bullet" style tweeters.
Impedance curve or impedance peak closer to usually 3000 Hz
So crossover would be more like 5000 to 6000 Hz
to keep them from squawking with distortion.
You could go down to 4000 Hz but would recommend
a 3rd order or 18 dB filter for sound quality and power handling.
If you want Off axis to be close to 45 degrees
6" speaker off axis close to 2500 Hz maybe 3000 Hz
So be a larger horn and diaphragm to cross at 3000 Hz
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@WhiteDragon I should clarify. was planning on doing something like the Yorkville psa1, which makes dispersion and beaming less of an issue, but decided against the supper tweeter, now I'm just going for a regular horn so i don't have to cross so high. Thank you so much for the info!
Ahh cool, sounds like fun.
Cross Fire or splayed baffle seems like a lost Art.
I've mentioned or suggested them for multi drivers.
And people make funny faces or excuse them cause they dont " look right"
So cool choice.
Takes much more time to simulate.
But can be done and helpful to see the notch in the response.
When you start to increase or decrease splay angle.
Be interesting to know what Yorkville used.
If I remember shallow splay not more than 15 to 20 degrees
worked best.
Once you go up to 30 or some even 45 degree
the response notch is more apparent. But usually
very narrow notch. Not much more than notches
you could get in a normal room without a splay.
Very cool, good way to mount drivers vertical and horizontal.
and still have good off axis horizontal
Technically on a high pass doesnt need to be vented.
But the vent help to get rid of heat even though they dont
do much on a filter. More a heat thing.
Yorkville design is pretty smart
Cross Fire or splayed baffle seems like a lost Art.
I've mentioned or suggested them for multi drivers.
And people make funny faces or excuse them cause they dont " look right"
So cool choice.
Takes much more time to simulate.
But can be done and helpful to see the notch in the response.
When you start to increase or decrease splay angle.
Be interesting to know what Yorkville used.
If I remember shallow splay not more than 15 to 20 degrees
worked best.
Once you go up to 30 or some even 45 degree
the response notch is more apparent. But usually
very narrow notch. Not much more than notches
you could get in a normal room without a splay.
Very cool, good way to mount drivers vertical and horizontal.
and still have good off axis horizontal
Technically on a high pass doesnt need to be vented.
But the vent help to get rid of heat even though they dont
do much on a filter. More a heat thing.
Yorkville design is pretty smart
@6sX7 meaning by mounting a plate mount on the back? Not sure what you mean by active. Would like to build my own speaker and tune it tho. Its cheeper, and more fun! If you have an easier and cheeper way tho, I'm all ears🙂
Plate amps or separate amps with an active x-over upstream (for example, a behringer: https://www.sweetwater.com/c445--SR...V0vTICh2taguhEAQYASABEgJyPfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
It eases the headaches of making sure whatever passive crossover you design can handle the voltage and current demands since the crossover is all line-level stuff.
@WhiteDragon great minds think alike🙂 also these 250 caps volt from parts express should be able to handle the now 700w 4 ohms im planning to feed these speakers! from the info from u🙂 was planning to do a 10-20deg but maybe i will make it adjustable in future reiterations. currently pk sound has a very nice cross-fire mid tweeter setup on there line arrays. so the lost art stays alive🙂
Im exited with the progress ive made the past few days with box! i dont want to jinx it, but i think this is going to be a great speaker.
Im exited with the progress ive made the past few days with box! i dont want to jinx it, but i think this is going to be a great speaker.
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