Hi guys first of all let me tell you what im looking for. I want a tight bass to provide the punch to the sound (If you know what i mean) i am an audio newbie so my budget build is (Front doors: MTX TX265C Coaxial 6.5'' ,Rear Deck: Kenwood KFC-M1634A Coaxial 6.5")
As for amplifier im looking to buy a used 400-500w sony xplod amplifier 4 channel (2 bridged for sub and 2 for left right speakers sides).
Now i use an SSL head unit 4x40w just for the speakers i have ,the music is fine for my ears but as i said i miss the bass (Its like playing music on your 2.1 pc build without the subwoofer active like sound).
So im looking for a 8-10" cheap sub that can satisfy me (nothing crazy just a little bass feeling). Please don't suggest me subs like BOSS,Skar or PlanetAudio cause here in Greece its almost impossible to be found. I'm thinking for Pioneer TS-A250S4 or Earthquake TNT series, what's your thoughts about them?
Thanks for our time!
As for amplifier im looking to buy a used 400-500w sony xplod amplifier 4 channel (2 bridged for sub and 2 for left right speakers sides).
Now i use an SSL head unit 4x40w just for the speakers i have ,the music is fine for my ears but as i said i miss the bass (Its like playing music on your 2.1 pc build without the subwoofer active like sound).
So im looking for a 8-10" cheap sub that can satisfy me (nothing crazy just a little bass feeling). Please don't suggest me subs like BOSS,Skar or PlanetAudio cause here in Greece its almost impossible to be found. I'm thinking for Pioneer TS-A250S4 or Earthquake TNT series, what's your thoughts about them?
Thanks for our time!
Here we are not busy with prebuild commercial subs, we build them ourselves.
A cheap rather decent sub could be a Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4 driver in a good stuffed 50-60L sealed sub. QTC should be arround 0.707 without sealing and lower when stuffed, and a good response until the mid 20's when against a wall, and the mid 30's in a open space.
But if you want something off the shelf, you bettter go elsewhere for info.This site is about Do It Yourself
A cheap rather decent sub could be a Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4 driver in a good stuffed 50-60L sealed sub. QTC should be arround 0.707 without sealing and lower when stuffed, and a good response until the mid 20's when against a wall, and the mid 30's in a open space.
But if you want something off the shelf, you bettter go elsewhere for info.This site is about Do It Yourself
Maybe you can find some used jbl gto series locally. I like these in a sealed box a bit bigger then jbl advises.
If you buy a used driver, measure impedance and push it in to check for coil rub/noise to know if it is still good.
If you buy a used driver, measure impedance and push it in to check for coil rub/noise to know if it is still good.
Thanks for the help guys...Sorry if my question is out of topic,i just thought buying a sub for my custom build enclosure,i didnt know you build your own subs here! Very interesting.
This is for a car audio system?
The Pioneer driver looks Ok. Nothing spectacular, but it should give you the bass that you're looking for if used in the right enclosure. And the price is decent enough. If you want more bass, just use two of them.
If it's for a car then have a look at Hertz ES series, they have good punch, sounds good (musical), works well in small enclosures, and don't require too much of an amplifier.
I have used both the ES200.5 and ES250.5 (single coil) in closed boxes, the ES250.5 does produce a bit more pressure (as would be expected) at the expense of a little bit of the response, but they both sound warm and accurate.
You should be able to find them in Greece for a good price.
Energy Archives - HertzAudioVideo car audio system
I have used both the ES200.5 and ES250.5 (single coil) in closed boxes, the ES250.5 does produce a bit more pressure (as would be expected) at the expense of a little bit of the response, but they both sound warm and accurate.
You should be able to find them in Greece for a good price.
Energy Archives - HertzAudioVideo car audio system
For now the best step up in overall musicality and bass would be to use the four channel amp to power your coaxial speakers and save up a bit for a dedicated subwoofer amplifier.
If you keep an eye out on eBay you can find any number of class D subwoofer amplifiers for under 20 euros.
The pioneer is a reasonable subwoofer but I would build a Ported box to the specifications given on the manufacturer’s website to get the most from it.
If you keep an eye out on eBay you can find any number of class D subwoofer amplifiers for under 20 euros.
The pioneer is a reasonable subwoofer but I would build a Ported box to the specifications given on the manufacturer’s website to get the most from it.
Hertz subs are above my budget,here in Greece the cost for one is 120euros. I wouldnt really trust a class d amplifier for 20 euros to drive my sub, cause many of them needs more than 12v (20-35v) and also the sound quality will not be the same.
I would get the even cheaper ones <$5; tpa3116 or 3118 - these sound great and are fine. If you get a dual or even quad (2ohm) coil woofer you can add a (pbtl) amp per coil without voltage booster or active cooling.
With a voltage booster you can use TDA7498E or TPA3255 for more power @ 4ohm.
TS-A250S4 "sensitivity 74dB" is very low so it will need a lot of power.
If you don't need very low bass, you could look for a used Pioneer ts-wx206a and be done for <€50. The 6 pole power connector (often missing) is the same as used for computer video cards which you can get for cheap. SQ is ok and big output for an 8".
Pioneer ts-wx206a:
With a voltage booster you can use TDA7498E or TPA3255 for more power @ 4ohm.
TS-A250S4 "sensitivity 74dB" is very low so it will need a lot of power.
If you don't need very low bass, you could look for a used Pioneer ts-wx206a and be done for <€50. The 6 pole power connector (often missing) is the same as used for computer video cards which you can get for cheap. SQ is ok and big output for an 8".
Pioneer ts-wx206a:
FWIW, a little more complete set of specs 😉: https://cms.pioneercarentertainment..._TS-A300S4,_TS-A300D4_TS-A250S4_TS-A250D4.pdf
GM
GM
Thanks for the replies! I am looking for the sub you sent me but no luck here in Greece.I have bought the TPA3118 and i am waiting shipment to test it for my room setup. You are right guys about 74db,i didn't saw that and i definitely want a good mark here cause my amplifier wont be that strong.As i said i just want a tight bass to go with my music nothing crazy.
OK, you have MTX, so why not MTX sub? Last time I checked they were some of the best in the world to the point of being used in some of prosound's best performing woofers.
GM
GM
Alpine makes a heck of a product, the Type R are very nice drivers, full stop. I've stopped myself from picking some up for home use several times.
Sorry, I should have mean 20 euros second hand. I have bought a JBL BP300.1 and a Kenwood 9014d for under 20 pounds sterling over the last year by patiently watching eBay.
Older Car amplifiers that are not collectible are incredibly cheap these days, no one seems to want them.
Plenty of power for the pioneer sub.
Fenton 8-Inch 500W Replacement Woofer for Reference & Studio Monitors - 8 Ohm | eBay
Try one of these in a box, doesn't need a big volume.
Kevlar cone will be robust for a car, $39, down to 27 Hz and very smooth low down.
Little 250W brother $29 (AUD).
Try one of these in a box, doesn't need a big volume.
Kevlar cone will be robust for a car, $39, down to 27 Hz and very smooth low down.
Little 250W brother $29 (AUD).