Hi all,
I inherited a pair of DM603 speakers, but the tweeters are in bad condition and so are the passive bass radiators. Does anyone know of some suitable aftermarket tweeters and woofers that would fit in these speakers? As it would be a shame to throw these speakers away.
I inherited a pair of DM603 speakers, but the tweeters are in bad condition and so are the passive bass radiators. Does anyone know of some suitable aftermarket tweeters and woofers that would fit in these speakers? As it would be a shame to throw these speakers away.
Welcome to the forum!
These speakers are probably worth no more than £250 in perfect working order, so bear that in mind before spending an excessive amount on renovation.
So, we're talking tweeters and passive bass radiators, are we? The kevlar bass/mids are alright?
It may be helpful if you define "bad condition" - photos of the damage perhaps?
I know it is possible to replace the tweeter diaphragms/coils - look on ebay.
You could try contacting B&W customer service for advice: https://support-uk.bowerswilkins.co...xQklpdmhhcTRYRyU3RVdRTlVFbndLcEk1M2clMjElMjE=
These speakers are probably worth no more than £250 in perfect working order, so bear that in mind before spending an excessive amount on renovation.
So, we're talking tweeters and passive bass radiators, are we? The kevlar bass/mids are alright?
It may be helpful if you define "bad condition" - photos of the damage perhaps?
I know it is possible to replace the tweeter diaphragms/coils - look on ebay.
You could try contacting B&W customer service for advice: https://support-uk.bowerswilkins.co...xQklpdmhhcTRYRyU3RVdRTlVFbndLcEk1M2clMjElMjE=
I would advise to invest in a 2.5 way speaker kit and modify baffle to accomodate new drive units.
May cost 700 bucks easily. Or invest in loudspeaker design knowledge and diy. The latter is even more expensive, a lot more if you count your study hours.
May cost 700 bucks easily. Or invest in loudspeaker design knowledge and diy. The latter is even more expensive, a lot more if you count your study hours.
Hi
thanks for your replies I've attached pictures of both speakers. Both tweeters have broken diaphragms and 1 tweeter has completely given up and doesn't produce sound anymore. Both passive bass radiators are teared and and are held together by tape.
thanks for your replies I've attached pictures of both speakers. Both tweeters have broken diaphragms and 1 tweeter has completely given up and doesn't produce sound anymore. Both passive bass radiators are teared and and are held together by tape.
Attachments
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The tweeter diaphragms/voice coils can be replaced with a bit of care: https://speakerrepairshop.nl/en/instructions/replace-tweeter-diaphragm/b-w-dm7-tweeter/c-28
The tears in the PBRs could be repaired by applying a permanently flexible sealant back and front: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/p...nville-black-silicone-sealant-40g-173867.html
The tears in the PBRs could be repaired by applying a permanently flexible sealant back and front: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/p...nville-black-silicone-sealant-40g-173867.html
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SB Acoustics Arya kit might be worth checking out. Drivers and passive x/o sold separately sum to 450€/pair.
3" paper diaphragm tweeters are about $5 or less at US suppliers. I would not waste time re-coning them. I repaired a KLH23 with a dead tweeter with one of these and the result was okay. I'm sure you can find something in Europe. 3" paper tweeters are nearly obsolete now.
If you want perfection, invest in an omni microphone, a condensor mike interface (phantom power), and some speaker test software like REW. REW runs on PC's, windows, mac, and linux. USB mikes have variable delay due to the latency problems of the operating system. Then mess with the crossover to flatten the curve. My KLH23 crossover had one capacitor series the tweeter. Series resistors can raise or lower the level.
If you want perfection, invest in an omni microphone, a condensor mike interface (phantom power), and some speaker test software like REW. REW runs on PC's, windows, mac, and linux. USB mikes have variable delay due to the latency problems of the operating system. Then mess with the crossover to flatten the curve. My KLH23 crossover had one capacitor series the tweeter. Series resistors can raise or lower the level.
Repairing original tweeters with substitute dome assemblies at 100€/piece is a decision one has to give some serious thought first. Assuming everthing went alright with installation, the repair should be backed with measurements, which isn't practical for OP atm. And then the crappy looking PR's, even after being patched, can't be avoided. Altogether a not worthwhile endeavour, imo.
Repair as sugested by indianajo seems reasonable enough, low risk too. Won't be something to write home about but the function for non demanding user should be established.
Curiously, the Arya kit has got 0,15 mH and 1,0 mH coils, which by pure chance are also a part of DM 603 crossover, so probably could be reused. Didn't notice what wire these (B&W's) are.
Repair as sugested by indianajo seems reasonable enough, low risk too. Won't be something to write home about but the function for non demanding user should be established.
Curiously, the Arya kit has got 0,15 mH and 1,0 mH coils, which by pure chance are also a part of DM 603 crossover, so probably could be reused. Didn't notice what wire these (B&W's) are.
The Monacor HT-22/8 cone tweeter has been used in several successful speaker renovations in which I have been involved.
https://www.monacor.com/products/pa...-and-speaker-building/hi-fi-tweeters/ht-22-8/
It has a 90 mm (3.5 inch) overall diameter and an 80 mm diameter mounting hole - check if there's sufficient space into which you can make it fit.
Here are smaller alternatives from Visaton: https://www.visaton.de/en/products/drivers-accessories/cone-tweeters