I had 30w Bluetooth soundbar battery operated 3.7v, it's amplifier borad is dead so I am trying to find a replacement borad
But unable to find the exact match.
Options left for me
1) Get a Bluetooth amplifier board with 3.7v input and output of more then 10w per channel
2) get xY-P15W amplifier board with 12v input and 15+15 output, but the catch is i need to use DC to DC step up convert 3.7v to 12v to make it run
I thought of going for option one but unable to find 3.7v input board if anyone could help with it I would be happy or else we have option 2 left
What do you guys suggest
Below attached pics of old amplifier
But unable to find the exact match.
Options left for me
1) Get a Bluetooth amplifier board with 3.7v input and output of more then 10w per channel
2) get xY-P15W amplifier board with 12v input and 15+15 output, but the catch is i need to use DC to DC step up convert 3.7v to 12v to make it run
I thought of going for option one but unable to find 3.7v input board if anyone could help with it I would be happy or else we have option 2 left
What do you guys suggest
Below attached pics of old amplifier
Attachments
As a matter of fact, it is not possible to get 20Watts audio output from a 3.7v source without an extra power supply, in your case a Buck Regulator. See photo showing the choke and switching regulator required to increase the voltage before it will work.
Attachments
The correct name is a Buck Regulator or Convertor as it can be used to boost or reduce by the use of a switching component and recovery diode that will either add or reduce the output voltage.@JonSnell Electronic I think you mean a Boost regulator, right?
Here is a typical schematic;
Attachments
If this is portable battery power.
I would assume battery life would be slightly
better staying at 3.3 / 3.7 volts
Boosting the rail will eat up more current
and if real world listening level can be reached.
With 3.7 volts
No need to drain the battery faster.
Bass frequency can exceed linear excursion
of the speaker very quickly. So even if
it is 20 to 40 watt thermal rating.
Distortion might happen much sooner.
So real world power and better battery life
might be found at 3.3 volts.
Or forget the booster and use a 12 volt
battery/ more cells. Which of course is more costly
than a booster.
Depends on the speakers and what is
realistic.
I would assume battery life would be slightly
better staying at 3.3 / 3.7 volts
Boosting the rail will eat up more current
and if real world listening level can be reached.
With 3.7 volts
No need to drain the battery faster.
Bass frequency can exceed linear excursion
of the speaker very quickly. So even if
it is 20 to 40 watt thermal rating.
Distortion might happen much sooner.
So real world power and better battery life
might be found at 3.3 volts.
Or forget the booster and use a 12 volt
battery/ more cells. Which of course is more costly
than a booster.
Depends on the speakers and what is
realistic.
With all due respect this is a boost converter.The correct name is a Buck Regulator or Convertor as it can be used to boost or reduce by the use of a switching component and recovery diode that will either add or reduce the output voltage.
Here is a typical schematic;
Attachments
I assume there is two batterys on parallel and output is 3.7If this is portable battery power.
I would assume battery life would be slightly
better staying at 3.3 / 3.7 volts
Boosting the rail will eat up more current
and if real world listening level can be reached.
With 3.7 volts
No need to drain the battery faster.
Bass frequency can exceed linear excursion
of the speaker very quickly. So even if
it is 20 to 40 watt thermal rating.
Distortion might happen much sooner.
So real world power and better battery life
might be found at 3.3 volts.
Or forget the booster and use a 12 volt
battery/ more cells. Which of course is more costly
than a booster.
Depends on the speakers and what is
realistic.
So using a DC to DC booster will solve the 12v issue but I was thinking if i could get all in one board it will be more better
I found a DC to DC converter which takes 3.7v and gives out variable voltage 4,5,6,7 up to 30
But it will be just lot of boards in a portable soundbar
That's why aiming for all in one board if it is not possible then we can get one Bluetooth amplifier and voltage booster
Well there yah go.
3.7 is fine.
Plenty of boards out there.
I would say a good choice would be
something with a more updated Bluetooth
chip.
Good range is nice too, maybe add external antenna
3.7 is fine.
Plenty of boards out there.
I would say a good choice would be
something with a more updated Bluetooth
chip.
Good range is nice too, maybe add external antenna
So I have two options here
1) xy-p15w
2)tpa3110( required external Bluetooth module)
Both required step up voltage to 12
Which one do you suggest
1) xy-p15w
2)tpa3110( required external Bluetooth module)
Both required step up voltage to 12
Which one do you suggest
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- Amplifiers
- Class D
- Bluetooth amplifier 3.7v 20w or 30