Are there any fanatic anglers here who have abundant $$$ to spend ?
Many of the web posts I found say that Tonkin cane -- split into hexagonal sections and then glued up -- has unequalled response / weight factor.
Other responders are firm in their convictions that top-tier graphite trumps bamboo because of its uniform manufacture & bad weather immunity.
OPINIONS HEREWITH REQUESTED - - -
Many of the web posts I found say that Tonkin cane -- split into hexagonal sections and then glued up -- has unequalled response / weight factor.
Other responders are firm in their convictions that top-tier graphite trumps bamboo because of its uniform manufacture & bad weather immunity.
OPINIONS HEREWITH REQUESTED - - -
Flyrods are tools, for light fishing for trout and greyling cane has a strong place I my heart, but for longer casting, heavier lines carbon clearly outclasses cane as it is lighter and stronger. But in the light devision cane has a more subtitle feel and let you throw thight loops at s(low) line speeds for soft and delicate presentation. Iam confident that a hollow built cane section would perform great as a tonearm
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It's very much a matter of taste and practicality,i think.A good friend of mine wouldn't use anything but a delicate cane-rod,when flyfishing for greyling in Austria,whereas he would choose a modern two-handed graphite rod when salmon fishing on the large rivers of Norway or Iceland. Back home in Denmark,i use a graphite rod for flyfishing seatrout on the coast. Interesting idea with a hollow-built section of cane for a tonearm....would that be a single or a double-built section 🙂
Cheers
Kim
Cheers
Kim
Come to think about it...i'd probably ask Bruce and Walker in GB for some offcuts from
their Hexagraph-blanks ; splitcane-shape combined with carbon-fibre properties.
CapeFear rods in the US used to make a similar type of blanks for boatrods, but they
seem to have gone out of Business quite some time ago.
Cheers
Kim
their Hexagraph-blanks ; splitcane-shape combined with carbon-fibre properties.
CapeFear rods in the US used to make a similar type of blanks for boatrods, but they
seem to have gone out of Business quite some time ago.
Cheers
Kim
As a practical flyfisher I can't, with experience, comment on your cane vs graphite question. I have several graphite rods but still enjoy the slow action and feel of the 6 weight, 8' 6" glass Sage rod I wrapped about 30 yrs ago.
A few opinions though....with a healthy budget available, I would opt for the bamboo simply for the artistic aspect of bamboo. I don't believe bamboo can be bested for artistic appeal. I would only opt for bamboo if I had at least one spare tip...I understand bamboo rod designs have become more durable but still believe graphite is best when considering durability. Sure, bamboo can be repaired but not in the field.
A few opinions though....with a healthy budget available, I would opt for the bamboo simply for the artistic aspect of bamboo. I don't believe bamboo can be bested for artistic appeal. I would only opt for bamboo if I had at least one spare tip...I understand bamboo rod designs have become more durable but still believe graphite is best when considering durability. Sure, bamboo can be repaired but not in the field.
I bet thats a great rod..... 🙂As a practical flyfisher I can't, with experience, comment on your cane vs graphite question. I have several graphite rods but still enjoy the slow action and feel of the 6 weight, 8' 6" glass Sage rod I wrapped about 30 yrs ago.
I like 'slowish' glass rods up to 9 1/2 ft, anything bigger pultruded carbon spiral over glass.
I've fished with cane, it's the only structure for 'delicate' work and imho it has no rivals.... nowt like a good looking cane (any bit of cane will do) 6 1/2 ft long with equal line length fishing (poaching) a small Morayshire 'Burn' for 'Pan Size' wild brownies.
Use rod / line most suited to task.
Glass, the happy compromise.
I've fished the free-stone rivers of northwest BC for some 30 years. A big factor in my rod choice has been worry about breakage. Graphite breaks at the worst possible time, when a fish is on, cursing ensues. Cane (tips especially) seem to be susceptible to sitting on, falling on or closing car doors on, crying ensues. Glass seems to last until the cork grips disintegrate and the guide wrappings flap in the wind, satisfaction ensues.
Really though, an action suited to the style of casting, mending and line pick-up you will be doing is what to look for irregardless of material. Back in the day most graphite rods were a blend of carbon and glass, the glass for durability. Glass rod blanks can be built with the same flex characteristics as a graphite blank, but at a substantial weight penalty.
In your home waters go check out the old guy in the worn out waders who's rod grip is dirty from years of use, ask him what rod suits the water and fishery, he's the guy to ask.
I've fished the free-stone rivers of northwest BC for some 30 years. A big factor in my rod choice has been worry about breakage. Graphite breaks at the worst possible time, when a fish is on, cursing ensues. Cane (tips especially) seem to be susceptible to sitting on, falling on or closing car doors on, crying ensues. Glass seems to last until the cork grips disintegrate and the guide wrappings flap in the wind, satisfaction ensues.
Really though, an action suited to the style of casting, mending and line pick-up you will be doing is what to look for irregardless of material. Back in the day most graphite rods were a blend of carbon and glass, the glass for durability. Glass rod blanks can be built with the same flex characteristics as a graphite blank, but at a substantial weight penalty.
In your home waters go check out the old guy in the worn out waders who's rod grip is dirty from years of use, ask him what rod suits the water and fishery, he's the guy to ask.
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