Who hasn't been to a live rock or blues concert, and felt the bass. Directly in the chest, throat clothes etc - or through a timber floor or platform under your feet. A great bonus in a pumping good experience.
That energy can be from 200 Hz down to some at around 25 Hz. Especially kick drums and bass guitar: harmonics and fundamentals.
Unfortunately my floor is concrete, and my walls are sheet rock (plasterboard)
But I've thought of two ways of getting that feeling into my room, or more specifically into me, maybe without playing so loud(?)
I know you can get (are they called?) bass shakers, that connect to you lounge, but I recall there a bit toy like, and want it under my feet:
1) I’m soon to build an EBS (vented tuned very low, The Subwoofer DIY Page - Extended Bass Shelf systems) covering about 12 to around 35- 60 Hz. I was going to do a sonotube cylinder. But I could mount the driver in an enclosure roughly the shape of a pallet. Sitting under the lounge chair, and extending out under the listeners’ feet.
Size: the width of the lounge (about 6 feet/ 1.8 metres), about 40 inches/ 1 meter deep, and however high it needs to be to give the target box volume. It might be eg: 8 inches/ 200 mm high.
2) Or, I could make a pallet shaped enclosure that simply picks up the bass energy. Probably not so “high” eg 4 inches/ 100 mm, and do a separate EBS.
A cylinder that’s moveable would normally allow better/ smooth in-room bass tuning, but in my case that’s limited as there are few places I could fit the EBS.
A third location option would be a sort of pallet proportioned enclosure, though behind the lounge, upright. But that wouldn’t allow direct contact with the vibrating timber, which is the central idea
One thing I don’t know is, how stiff should the enclosure be?
I have some left over ¾ inch/ 18 mm hardwood ply that I’d like to use. I was thinking of supporting it with a brace, just once in the centre, so the plywood spans half the width of the lounge, ie about 3 feet/ 900 mm.
Thinking more as I write, I could have the top secured by a minimum of screws, so the amount of bracing could be easily adjusted
Maybe 18 mm hardwood would be too stiff; better to use a ply or MDF that’s say 0.6 inch/ 15 mm ?
Any comments or suggestions?
That energy can be from 200 Hz down to some at around 25 Hz. Especially kick drums and bass guitar: harmonics and fundamentals.
Unfortunately my floor is concrete, and my walls are sheet rock (plasterboard)
But I've thought of two ways of getting that feeling into my room, or more specifically into me, maybe without playing so loud(?)
I know you can get (are they called?) bass shakers, that connect to you lounge, but I recall there a bit toy like, and want it under my feet:
1) I’m soon to build an EBS (vented tuned very low, The Subwoofer DIY Page - Extended Bass Shelf systems) covering about 12 to around 35- 60 Hz. I was going to do a sonotube cylinder. But I could mount the driver in an enclosure roughly the shape of a pallet. Sitting under the lounge chair, and extending out under the listeners’ feet.
Size: the width of the lounge (about 6 feet/ 1.8 metres), about 40 inches/ 1 meter deep, and however high it needs to be to give the target box volume. It might be eg: 8 inches/ 200 mm high.
2) Or, I could make a pallet shaped enclosure that simply picks up the bass energy. Probably not so “high” eg 4 inches/ 100 mm, and do a separate EBS.
A cylinder that’s moveable would normally allow better/ smooth in-room bass tuning, but in my case that’s limited as there are few places I could fit the EBS.
A third location option would be a sort of pallet proportioned enclosure, though behind the lounge, upright. But that wouldn’t allow direct contact with the vibrating timber, which is the central idea
One thing I don’t know is, how stiff should the enclosure be?
I have some left over ¾ inch/ 18 mm hardwood ply that I’d like to use. I was thinking of supporting it with a brace, just once in the centre, so the plywood spans half the width of the lounge, ie about 3 feet/ 900 mm.
Thinking more as I write, I could have the top secured by a minimum of screws, so the amount of bracing could be easily adjusted
Maybe 18 mm hardwood would be too stiff; better to use a ply or MDF that’s say 0.6 inch/ 15 mm ?
Any comments or suggestions?
This is a great idea if you want to really feel the bass. This will also keep the listeners in close proximity to the sub so it doesn't need to be as loud.
But instead of a small riser just big enough to fit the couch, I'd make it a bit bigger, a mini stage. It's no fun to have a couch that is obscenely high off the floor so I'd make the stage at least as wide as the couch, and have it extend at least 2 feet out in front of the couch, providing a small step and so your legs won't be dangling when seated. If I were building this for myself, ideally it would extend at least 5 feet in front of the couch so a coffee table would fit on it too. I think this arrangement would look much better too, rather than just a little box holding the couch up.
I've strongly considered making something like this but never got around to it. The biggest concern is driver protection - you could mount large drivers under the couch but if someone moves the couch the drivers could be destroyed. I was going to use 6 inch drivers in a horn, that way the drivers could be fully enclosed inside the stage and the total height would be about 8 inches - a comfortable step. The horn mouth would exit right under the couch.
I'd use strong wood with adequate bracing. You don't want the stage to collapse.
But instead of a small riser just big enough to fit the couch, I'd make it a bit bigger, a mini stage. It's no fun to have a couch that is obscenely high off the floor so I'd make the stage at least as wide as the couch, and have it extend at least 2 feet out in front of the couch, providing a small step and so your legs won't be dangling when seated. If I were building this for myself, ideally it would extend at least 5 feet in front of the couch so a coffee table would fit on it too. I think this arrangement would look much better too, rather than just a little box holding the couch up.
I've strongly considered making something like this but never got around to it. The biggest concern is driver protection - you could mount large drivers under the couch but if someone moves the couch the drivers could be destroyed. I was going to use 6 inch drivers in a horn, that way the drivers could be fully enclosed inside the stage and the total height would be about 8 inches - a comfortable step. The horn mouth would exit right under the couch.
I'd use strong wood with adequate bracing. You don't want the stage to collapse.
Rather than support a platform at one place in the center, I would use rubber bumpers maybe 2 ft. on center.
I use these McMaster-Carr as feet on woofer boxes.
P/N 8926T27 (3/4 way down page) or put the P/N in the search.
.
I mounted a sub and some woofer boxes on these soft Silicone rubber feet and they are totally isolated from the floor.
The other day I was watching a movie that had a long section where there was just a loud heart beat and I noticed that the sub was gently rocking back and forth like a weeble
Well, just an idea.
Dave
I use these McMaster-Carr as feet on woofer boxes.
P/N 8926T27 (3/4 way down page) or put the P/N in the search.
.
I mounted a sub and some woofer boxes on these soft Silicone rubber feet and they are totally isolated from the floor.
The other day I was watching a movie that had a long section where there was just a loud heart beat and I noticed that the sub was gently rocking back and forth like a weeble
Well, just an idea.
Dave
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“instead of a small riser just big enough to fit the couch, I'd make it a bit bigger, a mini stage. It's no fun to have a couch that is obscenely high off the floor so I'd make the stage at least as wide as the couch, and have it extend at least 2 feet out in front of the couch, providing a small step and so your legs won't be dangling when seated. “
Yes, that’s pretty much my thinking too. For me, lacking space, not to go under a coffee table, but extending in front of the couch about 2-3 feet/ 600-900 mm.
At the moment I’m possibly thinking more that if I can find enough space elsewhere, of making the sub separate.
“I was going to use 6 inch drivers in a horn”
Build a bass horn in - that would be * real * fun. I have some suitable drivers . . . project scope creep? Will dwell on that
“I'd use strong wood with adequate bracing. You don't want the stage to collapse.”
That’s the $64,000 question - trade-off to get right: enough flexibility to vibrate easily – but not collapse when you walk (or dance) on it . .
Yes, that’s pretty much my thinking too. For me, lacking space, not to go under a coffee table, but extending in front of the couch about 2-3 feet/ 600-900 mm.
At the moment I’m possibly thinking more that if I can find enough space elsewhere, of making the sub separate.
“I was going to use 6 inch drivers in a horn”
Build a bass horn in - that would be * real * fun. I have some suitable drivers . . . project scope creep? Will dwell on that
“I'd use strong wood with adequate bracing. You don't want the stage to collapse.”
That’s the $64,000 question - trade-off to get right: enough flexibility to vibrate easily – but not collapse when you walk (or dance) on it . .
rubber bumpers
Dave
The rubber bumpers – as well as using them under the sub where you use them; are you suggesting to use them under the top of the “enclosure”, ie under the “stage floor”, 2 ft/ 600 mm apart - along the perimeters?
.. maybe you weren't, but it might be a good idea
With McMaster’s specs of “Durometer hardness”, do you know - is the lower the number, the more flexible the bumper?
Dave
The rubber bumpers – as well as using them under the sub where you use them; are you suggesting to use them under the top of the “enclosure”, ie under the “stage floor”, 2 ft/ 600 mm apart - along the perimeters?
.. maybe you weren't, but it might be a good idea
With McMaster’s specs of “Durometer hardness”, do you know - is the lower the number, the more flexible the bumper?
The lower the durometer number, the softer.
30A is really soft, but is the ones I like.
.
I guess my post was confusing.
I was thinking that you could put some bumpers on top of posts inside of the box, and have them stick proud of the top just enough to support the top board of the platform.
In the center, so the top surface board would not sag.
It would take a little experimenting to get them sitting just right, or make them adjustable.
When I use these, I drill a hole and drive a "speaker nut" into the board.
Even though they are installed "backwards" they work because all the force is against them.
Dave
30A is really soft, but is the ones I like.
.
I guess my post was confusing.
I was thinking that you could put some bumpers on top of posts inside of the box, and have them stick proud of the top just enough to support the top board of the platform.
In the center, so the top surface board would not sag.
It would take a little experimenting to get them sitting just right, or make them adjustable.
When I use these, I drill a hole and drive a "speaker nut" into the board.
Even though they are installed "backwards" they work because all the force is against them.
Dave
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