I am currently working on speaker build. Midrange will have enclosure behind it. This is the baffle.Tweeter will be mounted in waveguide on open baffle.I was planning to do round over but as its single 3/4 baltic ply i don't i can do large radius. I was thinking of gluing large quarter round trim instead.Would that work well?
You could glue 2 inch wide strips to the back side of the tweeter baffle to give you enough material to round it over. This might be easier then finding some the large 1/4 round and gluing to the edges of the plywood, I usual have plenty of BB ply leftover when building cabinets.
Round over a must for tweeters. The more the better.experiement and listen for best outcome to your ears.
https://audioxpress.com/article/Diffraction-Doesn-t-Have-to-Be-a-Problem
Put 1/2” felt on baffle edges.
Put 1/2” felt on baffle edges.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...orns-or-waveguides.422090/page-2#post-7893865 Take a look at this discussion on rounded baffles/high XOs to achieve constant directivity behavior (and less diffraction artifacts)
Look at Grimm Audio and their white paper - that works very well.
https://www.grimmaudio.com/hifi-products/loudspeakers/ls1be/
I have a tweeter test baffle with big half round wood posts as corners to have no influence of diffraction.
But easiest way would be to make the baffle thicker, at least behind the tweeter to do proper roundovers.
https://www.grimmaudio.com/hifi-products/loudspeakers/ls1be/
I have a tweeter test baffle with big half round wood posts as corners to have no influence of diffraction.
But easiest way would be to make the baffle thicker, at least behind the tweeter to do proper roundovers.
Unless you can follow the waveguide design enough to extend it, you won't be sure that the flat baffle part is even optimum let alone rounding it over. Therefore you may as well determine what frequencies are reaching the edges, and provide a large enough roundover to have some effect. There's little point using a roundover if the waveguide is obscuring the cabinet edge for the frequencies where it's effective.
3/4" round over is common in most lumberyards. You can glue it onto the 3/4" plywood. 3/4" roundover isn't audible except to people with super hearing, it's used for aesthetics. It's almost impossible for an average person to machine hard wood into large radius 4-6" 1/4 round where it would actually affect the sound. So what to do? I've been using felt for years. As Norman points out felt can damp diffraction to good effect.
If you have access to a CNC you could machine large radius corners from whatever material you have. You could fabricate large radius corners from PVC pipe. I put sono tube baffles on my speakers as an experiment and that worked well, yes they were ugly as sin.
I'm a woodworker and can easily fabricate large curves from pine or poplar in a weekend with hand tools, this takes some experience.