Audio Technica AT-1010 Tonearm Rebuild and Upgrades.
Having owned a PMAT-101O for some years i recently bought a used standard AT-1010 with the intentions of
rebuilding it and where i can upgrading the components.If i can match the high performance of the PMAT version i'll
be a happy bunny!
Here is the tonearm stripped into all its pieces.
The first job i wanted to tackle is to make a new bearing housing spindle bolt.The original one has a loose fit where the horizontal bearings run so i made mine with a tighter
tolerance.
The original.
8mm diameter head turned and then 6mm diameter turned for m6 thread.
Thread cut.
Here's the old with the new one which also has a 4mm hole drilled up its length for the tonearm wires to pass through.
Having owned a PMAT-101O for some years i recently bought a used standard AT-1010 with the intentions of
rebuilding it and where i can upgrading the components.If i can match the high performance of the PMAT version i'll
be a happy bunny!
Here is the tonearm stripped into all its pieces.
The first job i wanted to tackle is to make a new bearing housing spindle bolt.The original one has a loose fit where the horizontal bearings run so i made mine with a tighter
tolerance.
The original.
8mm diameter head turned and then 6mm diameter turned for m6 thread.
Thread cut.
Here's the old with the new one which also has a 4mm hole drilled up its length for the tonearm wires to pass through.
Can I make a suggestion to improve the arm further and it involves making a new rigid counterweight stub with a CW that locks to the stub.
I did this upgrade on my EPA100 and made a huge improvement in detail retrieval.
The 2 plots are before and after measurements with the OEM CW and new setup as in the below pic. CW stub is M12-1.5 brass and the main CW is 316 stainless with either a brass or aluminium locking ring depending on cartridge weight.
.
I did this upgrade on my EPA100 and made a huge improvement in detail retrieval.
The 2 plots are before and after measurements with the OEM CW and new setup as in the below pic. CW stub is M12-1.5 brass and the main CW is 316 stainless with either a brass or aluminium locking ring depending on cartridge weight.
That could be am option although the C/W stub is very different to the Technics one. Cheers for the tip though,if i can implement it i will.
Todays job was to get rid of the headshell locking collar. I have heard this modification is a big upgrade to the arm.
The new piece will greatly increase stiffness and rigidity, it also does away with a couple wire connections.
The offending pieces to be replaced. Left is the headshell connector which in turn connects to the tonearm via the piece on the right.
aluminium round bar being turned down to create the interference fit with the arm tube.Approximately 13mm locates inside the tube.
Test fit to check the tolerance
Next i drilled a 5mm hole right through its length to take the tonearm wires,this is opened out to 8mm at the other end to accept
a peek insert which will have 4 holes drilled in it for the cartridge wires to exit.
The 2 retaining screws were next marked,drilled and tapped to M1.6mm!
Happy days!
Next job is a new bearing carrier in peek.
Todays job was to get rid of the headshell locking collar. I have heard this modification is a big upgrade to the arm.
The new piece will greatly increase stiffness and rigidity, it also does away with a couple wire connections.
The offending pieces to be replaced. Left is the headshell connector which in turn connects to the tonearm via the piece on the right.
aluminium round bar being turned down to create the interference fit with the arm tube.Approximately 13mm locates inside the tube.
Test fit to check the tolerance
Next i drilled a 5mm hole right through its length to take the tonearm wires,this is opened out to 8mm at the other end to accept
a peek insert which will have 4 holes drilled in it for the cartridge wires to exit.
The 2 retaining screws were next marked,drilled and tapped to M1.6mm!
Happy days!
Next job is a new bearing carrier in peek.
Why not make the bearing carrier in aluminium it will be stiffer and not have another material as a reflection point. IMO this will provide an easier path away from the arm for vibration energy.
I like the headshell modification. I recently had a PMAT modified AT-1010 here to mount it to an SP10 I repaired and it had a modified HS mount with continuous wiring but still retained the locking collar. I think your mod will be lighter. Another mod which will make changing cartridges easier would be to use a HS similar to the Funk Firm. I'll take pic of mine
I like the headshell modification. I recently had a PMAT modified AT-1010 here to mount it to an SP10 I repaired and it had a modified HS mount with continuous wiring but still retained the locking collar. I think your mod will be lighter. Another mod which will make changing cartridges easier would be to use a HS similar to the Funk Firm. I'll take pic of mine
Here is an SME I rebuilt because the arm wand was severely damaged. I now use this same HS on my DIY arm.
Unlike the FF arm, mine has a single hole in the HS carrier and the HS plate has the elongated holes to facilitate adjusting the cartridge in the plate then the plate can be removed and replaced without the need to realign the cart.
Unlike the FF arm, mine has a single hole in the HS carrier and the HS plate has the elongated holes to facilitate adjusting the cartridge in the plate then the plate can be removed and replaced without the need to realign the cart.
hi,
yes it could be made in aluminium,i was just going by what was used in the PMAT mk 6 i have and also ease of machining. Would brass be better than aluminum?
I don't think so, brass is more expensive and I don't think in this application is needed. I would use 6061 T6 aluminium.
Todays job was to get rid of the headshell locking collar. I have heard this modification is a big upgrade to the arm.
The new piece will greatly increase stiffness and rigidity, it also does away with a couple wire connections.
The offending pieces to be replaced. Left is the headshell connector which in turn connects to the tonearm via the piece on the right.
Got to thinking about the HS. If you changed the setup and machined the HS in one piece similar to pic 1 then made carrier plates you would have the same rigidity and facilitate easy swapping of cartridges. Mine is bolted to the arm but you could make yours so it slipped into the wand like the bit already made.
Yours doesn't need the offset that mine has. My HS carrier is 6mm wide and there is a 6mm wide channel in the plates 0.5mm deep so the plate does not swivel on the HS carrier. The front hole in the HS carrier is just to reduce weight.
Once a cartridge is setup in the plate it can be removed and replaced without the need to re-align.
I've been slightly side tracked with TTS-8000's bearings but today i got a chance to start the AT-1010 bearing housing.
To copy the original injection moulded plastic one will need careful lathe/milling machine set up but i think i can achieve it.
next job is to part it off and do the vertical bearing mounts.
To copy the original injection moulded plastic one will need careful lathe/milling machine set up but i think i can achieve it.
next job is to part it off and do the vertical bearing mounts.
Keep the updates coming.....
I installed a PMAT mk6 on an SP10 a few months ago so had the opportunity to hear it in my system. After setting it up there are a few things I would change. Setting overhang and azimuth was PITA as it's difficult not to move the HS back and forth when rotating for azimuth and vice versa. Also the OEM VTA adjustment is poor.
I installed a PMAT mk6 on an SP10 a few months ago so had the opportunity to hear it in my system. After setting it up there are a few things I would change. Setting overhang and azimuth was PITA as it's difficult not to move the HS back and forth when rotating for azimuth and vice versa. Also the OEM VTA adjustment is poor.
thanks!
yep i agree ! from use i find a small band of masking tape helps to keep the headshell from moving backwards when adjusting overhang. the easiest way is to get it as near as possible and then move the turntable in the plinth that final bit. azimuth is also hard which is one of the reasons i use ortofon cartridges as they have built in azimuth adjustment.
when you say the vta adjustment is poor do you mean the size of the screw?
yep i agree ! from use i find a small band of masking tape helps to keep the headshell from moving backwards when adjusting overhang. the easiest way is to get it as near as possible and then move the turntable in the plinth that final bit. azimuth is also hard which is one of the reasons i use ortofon cartridges as they have built in azimuth adjustment.
when you say the vta adjustment is poor do you mean the size of the screw?
The screw holding a post is a common method of securing the post. IMO this is inadequate for a high performance tonearm. My improved EPA-100 base has a split collet that locks the post rigidly. VTA is adjusted with an M3 bolt.
Second pic is the first iteration without the additional post sleeve. Second pic is the latest with a 30mm sleeve over the OEM post.
To adjust azimuth I use a bit of 1mm copper wire between the HS and cartridge then use the cart mounting screws to adjust azimuth. All of my cartridges use line contact styli and I have found especially with the MicoRidge azimuth is important.
You can see the wire and the CW rotation of an original Dynavector MC is obvious. Azimuth on this was set with a spectrum analyser.
