Ariel 6 drawing

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I have a few questions about this drawing.
1) Why is 1/2" cedar used and not 3/4" birch ply?
2) Also in that drawing the back panel seems to indicate the the use of birch ply and MDF. However the dimensions indicate that one of them is 1/2" not 3/4". Is this suppose to be two 3/4" panels laminated together or 3/4" MDF and 1/2" something else (cedar)?

I'm a little confused. Here is the link for the drawing. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

The back panel in the drawing is 1/2" Baltic Birch
and 3/4" mdf laminated together, the mdf being on
the exterior for painting or veneering. The front
panel is two layers of mdf laminated together. The
cedar is used in the bottom chamber, all other material in the interior is 3/4" Baltic birch.
Hope this helps.

Drawing Headache....

I also had few questions on the Ariel 6 (six) drawing.

1. The circle enlarging the front panel seems not fit what it enlarge.... This circle is the one with text: 'Tee Nut attached to mounting pad.... Scalloped Area cut away between mounting pads'
What part of front panel does this circle enlarged? Is it about mounting the speaker? And the scalloped area... which part to scallop?

2. In the Front View.... lower part of Ariel's. Next to left of the text "Screw-on vent cover with felt lining on inside surface..."
there is 2 woods/parts "flying" above the pyramid like base. How can we make the 2 woods "flying"? Or is it attached to the sides?

3. If I'm not mistaken, the each side panel has 8 holes. Is it correct? Is it really holes?


- sianturi aka The Great Saiyaman -
Re: Drawing Headache....

sianturi said:
If I'm not mistaken, the each side panel has 8 holes. Is it correct? Is it really holes?

I have another query about the holes. They're shown as square or slightly rectangular shaped, with rounded corners. Is this really necessary to go to that much trouble instead of simply drilling holes the same size. I mean, would the universe really come to an end if the holes were round instead of square?
Hi Guys

Lets see if I can answer your questions. The enlarged circle, the tee nut needs a flat area to mount on, you scallop the area in between the tee nuts. The screw on vent covers, had to think about
this, mount over either the top or bottom set of vents. Lynn mentions rooms with low ceilings had excess bass and to raise the speaker, this is now accomplished by covering the bottom vents, not enough bass, cover the upper vents. The vents are squared to achieve the proper size of opening for the TL. Also, a jig for your router with a straight cutting bit will make that type of opening.

Front Panel Ambiguity

I have read Lynn Olson explanation on Cabinet Construction ( and I think the picture of cabinet construction is wrong.... Lynn said in his explanation:

All panels are nominally 3/4" thick, with the exception of the double thickness front panel, which is TWO PIECES of 3/4" MDF LAMINATED TOGETHER.

I think I'll stick to Lynn's explanation. The front panel must be 3/4" MDF laminated together (not MDF and Plywood).

Btw, I just bought 18mm MDF and have been thinking of cutting it. How can I cut the MDF smoothly? Must I use electric saw? How if I use hand saw? Btw, what is ROUTER anyway? (Sorry, I don't know what router is.... English is not my mother language :)

Thanks guys!

Hi Sianturi

To make the front panel either will work, use the mdf it's cheaper than the plywood. Cut the mdf with a table saw or an electric saw (circular saw)
with a straight edge for a guide. Use of table saw would make things a lot easier. As for a router, do a search on the web, I'm sure you will recognise one when you see it. Lynn mentions using one for cutting the grooves (dados) for the internal pieces to fit into. Lynn also mentions your woodworking skills should be quite good to build these cabinets, you may want to look a something a little easier to build.

good luck
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