I've got a ton of the woofers and tweeters from the Energy C4s, but no crossovers. I'd love to make a set of my own, but i no longer have a pair to dig into to find the makeup of the crossover. Anybody know where I can find a schematic or something?
If you don't find a schematic for the filter you should have a go at designing your own. It's unlikely to turn out the same, but you should get an equally, if not superior unit depending on the components used, and how much time you are prepared to spend tweeking it.
Sorry, I can't help you with the schematic.
I'm not a big believer of the components making any difference, believe it or not, I think people put way too much weight on that. So I'm hoping to use basic parts of equal values to make the exact same thing, since the original speakers are some of the best I have EVER heard, topped only by their king, the original Energy Veritas.
I also am not wrapped up in the 'hype' of components.
Well I'm not familiar with the brand of speakers you are talking about, their initial cost, or the original components in the speakers, but I was referring to making perhaps a second order crossover if the original was first order etc.
Components do make a world of difference. Perhaps not swapping one brand for another of the same type, but a polypropylene capacitor is electrically superior (for audio use) than a bipolar electrolytic capacitor (due to their lower resistance and closer tolerance).
Also, inductor performance can vary depending on the guage of wire, dimensions etc. as thicker wire will have a lower resistance for the same value inductor, and air core inductors will not saturate and cause distortion, whereas a ferrite cored inductor can (depending on application).
I was only referring to improving the electrical circuit in low to medium cost hi fi speakers. If your speakers came with well designed cross over using good quality components in the first place, you are likely to see little or no improvement.
I'm gonna check the responses of them, first of all. The original design uses an aluminum tweeter, crossed over at 1800hz, handing off to an 8" woofer. I'm wondering if these driver really handled this so well by themselves, or if the crossover was kindof hiding something.