Member
Joined 2002
Hey there all im seeking yet another Subwoofer. i have a 15" usd sub now ( Car audio subwoofer good driver..) i am looking for a good hi excersion 10" driver any one know of one i have the power to power it but my goal is to have a ported box with a 10" 4 or 8 ohm will work..
Jason
have a look at my usd that i have now..
www.citytel.net/~jleaman
Jason
have a look at my usd that i have now..
www.citytel.net/~jleaman
Why not try this, you might just as well do a good job of it
Hmmm, seems like car audio meets the home.
If you’re looking for a solid subwoofer driver, give http://www.blueprintdrivers.com a try. It might still be a while till they’ll have stock again, but a 1201 should do you fine. While you’re at it, give ESP a look at http://www.sound.au.com for articles, schematics and even some kits for active crossovers and amplifiers (even if it's just for inspiration). You might also consider changing your main speakers at some stage. Even though I cannot vouch for them out of experience, the following seem well designed with a strong emphasis on value.(http://www.speakerbuilder.net).
For a funky design, use speakerbuilder’s components and crossover (Parts Express), but put the woofers in an overstuffed sealed box. Then augment that with a BPD 1201 in side-firing configuration (in a 40-80l sealed box) and bi-amp at, say 250 Hz. Something like a poor man’s active NHT 3.3
Hmmm, seems like car audio meets the home.
If you’re looking for a solid subwoofer driver, give http://www.blueprintdrivers.com a try. It might still be a while till they’ll have stock again, but a 1201 should do you fine. While you’re at it, give ESP a look at http://www.sound.au.com for articles, schematics and even some kits for active crossovers and amplifiers (even if it's just for inspiration). You might also consider changing your main speakers at some stage. Even though I cannot vouch for them out of experience, the following seem well designed with a strong emphasis on value.(http://www.speakerbuilder.net).
For a funky design, use speakerbuilder’s components and crossover (Parts Express), but put the woofers in an overstuffed sealed box. Then augment that with a BPD 1201 in side-firing configuration (in a 40-80l sealed box) and bi-amp at, say 250 Hz. Something like a poor man’s active NHT 3.3
Member
Joined 2002
What about ported enclosure .
What about ported enclosure i would like to have a ported enclosure because it goes lower and doesnt require alot of power to power it at all eg my 15" sub sounded horrible and there techs at usd suck ***.. there usless and jerks..
i would like to make small but power full that is why i said 10" - 12" any one know if a good idea of a dual 8" bandpass box..
i had a band pass 10" and it killed my 15" sealed but now that it is ported it is good..
What about ported enclosure i would like to have a ported enclosure because it goes lower and doesnt require alot of power to power it at all eg my 15" sub sounded horrible and there techs at usd suck ***.. there usless and jerks..
i would like to make small but power full that is why i said 10" - 12" any one know if a good idea of a dual 8" bandpass box..
i had a band pass 10" and it killed my 15" sealed but now that it is ported it is good..
Member
Joined 2002
What about ported enclosure .
What about ported enclosure i would like to have a ported enclosure because it goes lower and doesnt require alot of power to power it at all eg my 15" sub sounded horrible and there techs at usd suck ***.. there usless and jerks..
i would like to make small but power full that is why i said 10" - 12" any one know if a good idea of a dual 8" bandpass box..
i had a band pass 10" and it killed my 15" sealed but now that it is ported it is good..
www.citytel.net/~jleaman
jleaman@citytel.net
jason
What about ported enclosure i would like to have a ported enclosure because it goes lower and doesnt require alot of power to power it at all eg my 15" sub sounded horrible and there techs at usd suck ***.. there usless and jerks..
i would like to make small but power full that is why i said 10" - 12" any one know if a good idea of a dual 8" bandpass box..
i had a band pass 10" and it killed my 15" sealed but now that it is ported it is good..
www.citytel.net/~jleaman
jleaman@citytel.net
jason
Jason:
A 10" ported will outplay a 15" sealed. Can I have an idea as to just how big you are willing to go, volume-wise, on your sub?
A 10" ported will outplay a 15" sealed. Can I have an idea as to just how big you are willing to go, volume-wise, on your sub?
Member
Joined 2002
Yes, I was simply pointing out that your experience of a 10" ported outplaying a 15" sealed was a well-established phenomenon.
About how big a box do you plan to put your ported 10" into?
About how big a box do you plan to put your ported 10" into?
Member
Joined 2002
Depends on how you define "small". About the smallest I can come up with that will make a really good subwoofer is the Peerless XLS 10" 5 ohm, number 830452. This will have a 3 dB down point of 32 Hz in a 1 cubic foot box, (with a 3" diameter port), or 1.25 cubic foot box, (with a 4" diameter port).
A 3" diameter port will need to be 19" long. A 4" diameter port will need to be 34" long, and will require some PVC elbows from the building supply store to fit the port into the box. That is why you need to make the box 1.25 cubic ft if you use a 4" diameter port-it takes up more space in the box than the 3" diameter port.
The Peerless XLS 10" is about 86 dB senstive at 1 Watt, or 88.4 dB senstivive @2.83 volts.
The following graph shows the response for either of these boxes @ 1 Watt. The green line is the point at which the speaker is playing 3 dB below midpoint.
I can recommend other drivers if you want to make the box larger, say 2 cubic feet or larger. Those will go deeper than this 1 cubic foot enclosure will go.
A 3" diameter port will need to be 19" long. A 4" diameter port will need to be 34" long, and will require some PVC elbows from the building supply store to fit the port into the box. That is why you need to make the box 1.25 cubic ft if you use a 4" diameter port-it takes up more space in the box than the 3" diameter port.
The Peerless XLS 10" is about 86 dB senstive at 1 Watt, or 88.4 dB senstivive @2.83 volts.
The following graph shows the response for either of these boxes @ 1 Watt. The green line is the point at which the speaker is playing 3 dB below midpoint.
I can recommend other drivers if you want to make the box larger, say 2 cubic feet or larger. Those will go deeper than this 1 cubic foot enclosure will go.
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Member
Joined 2002
ok..HOw about.
ok that sounds good so i have did some calulations how about 12" x 16" x 21 " and the subwoofer on the face of the 12 x 16
Height 16"
Width 12"
Depth 21"
And the port on the back of the sub so that it is facing back..
Also here is apic of my 15" usd sub when i just got it off a friend.
ok that sounds good so i have did some calulations how about 12" x 16" x 21 " and the subwoofer on the face of the 12 x 16
Height 16"
Width 12"
Depth 21"
And the port on the back of the sub so that it is facing back..
Also here is apic of my 15" usd sub when i just got it off a friend.
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Member
Joined 2002
Member
Joined 2002
Have you seen one of these..
Has any one seen onf of these subs..
Here is the link to there web page..
www.aerialacoustics.com
Has any one seen onf of these subs..
Here is the link to there web page..
www.aerialacoustics.com
Nice setup all round. Is that an Aerial Acoustics main speaker next to the subwoofer?
Assuming 1" thick building material, those dimensions yield a box of 1.9 cubic feet, so the Peerless XLS is out. Two 10" subs that come to mind are the Dayton Titanic Mk II and the Blueprint 1001. More about those later.
What kind of amp are you using for this, and do you have the power output into A) 4 ohms, and B) 8 ohms? Some subwoofer amps give considerably more power into 4 ohms than 8 ohms.
Assuming 1" thick building material, those dimensions yield a box of 1.9 cubic feet, so the Peerless XLS is out. Two 10" subs that come to mind are the Dayton Titanic Mk II and the Blueprint 1001. More about those later.
What kind of amp are you using for this, and do you have the power output into A) 4 ohms, and B) 8 ohms? Some subwoofer amps give considerably more power into 4 ohms than 8 ohms.
Oops-too hasty. Actually, those outside dimensions will yield a box that is 1.5 cubic feet internal. forgot to subtact twice the thickness from the outside measurements.
The Blueprint 1001 and the Dayton Titanic MkII give almost identical performance in a 1.5 cubic foot box. The Blueprint driver is somewhat cheaper than the Titanic.
A 3" diameter port of 16" length tunes the box to 26 Hz. With these excursions-very long, 16mm-a flared port is a good idea. Available Madisound or Parts Express. Both charge $12.00
www.partsexpress.com
www.madisound.com
The Aerial Acoustic sub has an excursion of almost 2 inches. I assume that is back-to-front. These subs have an excursion of 33 mm back-to-front. That means a 3 dB theoretical difference in top volume. Don't worry, you'll never hear it. In a ported enclosure, you will not reach the limits of these subs' excursions. A ported box means your speaker only has to move 25% as much as a sub in a sealed box has to.
Blueprint 1001 is in blue, Dayton Titanic Mk II is in red. Green line is the line where output is 3 dB down from the midpoint:
The Blueprint 1001 and the Dayton Titanic MkII give almost identical performance in a 1.5 cubic foot box. The Blueprint driver is somewhat cheaper than the Titanic.
A 3" diameter port of 16" length tunes the box to 26 Hz. With these excursions-very long, 16mm-a flared port is a good idea. Available Madisound or Parts Express. Both charge $12.00
www.partsexpress.com
www.madisound.com
The Aerial Acoustic sub has an excursion of almost 2 inches. I assume that is back-to-front. These subs have an excursion of 33 mm back-to-front. That means a 3 dB theoretical difference in top volume. Don't worry, you'll never hear it. In a ported enclosure, you will not reach the limits of these subs' excursions. A ported box means your speaker only has to move 25% as much as a sub in a sealed box has to.
Blueprint 1001 is in blue, Dayton Titanic Mk II is in red. Green line is the line where output is 3 dB down from the midpoint:
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Jason: Quote your page: "USD pro c 15" 700watts single voice C....powering my 15" is a yamaha fixed buy me. has peaked at 620 rms with my meter at 42.hz into the sub.. just a simple one to get it running soon to have my 800wt amp mosfet ."
Actual power has everything to do with impedance. Is there anyway you can tell me the AC current at any drive voltage at 42 Hz? If 42 Hz is an impedance peak, and your meter measures simple AC voltage, then you are not approaching 620 watts.
Actual power has everything to do with impedance. Is there anyway you can tell me the AC current at any drive voltage at 42 Hz? If 42 Hz is an impedance peak, and your meter measures simple AC voltage, then you are not approaching 620 watts.
Member
Joined 2002
well here are some relly goood 10inch subs.....
1.Blaupunkt OVERDRIVE ODwa1000
2. kicker C10vr
3. paniconic CJ-HD252
all are good 10 in woofers
i sugest #1 if you got to money
1.Blaupunkt OVERDRIVE ODwa1000
2. kicker C10vr
3. paniconic CJ-HD252
all are good 10 in woofers
i sugest #1 if you got to money
Re: Im usein'
A) Power into 4 ohms?
B) Power into 8 ohms?
C) Link to website with info on the amp?
The specs sometimes contain the info on power into 4 & 8 ohms.
JasonL said:
A) Power into 4 ohms?
B) Power into 8 ohms?
C) Link to website with info on the amp?
The specs sometimes contain the info on power into 4 & 8 ohms.
I'm running a boss audio 12" daul voice coil sub in a 2.5 cubic foot cabinet with a 4"aero port.This sub has a 3" travel and moves massive amounts of air.Boss audio has a 10" version thats just as impressive.Check it out !
Jason:
Okay, I'll answer my own question. I went to A. Holton's site-traced it through the "Search" of this forum-and found the construction booklet for the AV800 amp here. Here is the address for A Holton's site:
http://www.aussieamplifiers.com/index.html
It does matter if you are running a 4 ohm or 8 ohm speaker, though you can run either. Here are the specs, quoted from the construction booklet:
Specifications for the AV800 MOSFET Amplifier
All measurements were taken at an AC Mains input of 240 volts.
And with a 2kva Toroidal Transformer powering the Amplifier module.
Filtering with only 10,000uf per voltage rail
One channel only was been driven.
Frequency response 10hz to 100khz
THD measured at 100 watts into 8 Ohms 0.01% @1khz
Power Output into 8 Ohms = 450 Watts RMS
Power Output into 4 Ohms = 820 Watts RMS
Damping Factor = 400
Okay, I'll answer my own question. I went to A. Holton's site-traced it through the "Search" of this forum-and found the construction booklet for the AV800 amp here. Here is the address for A Holton's site:
http://www.aussieamplifiers.com/index.html
It does matter if you are running a 4 ohm or 8 ohm speaker, though you can run either. Here are the specs, quoted from the construction booklet:
Specifications for the AV800 MOSFET Amplifier
All measurements were taken at an AC Mains input of 240 volts.
And with a 2kva Toroidal Transformer powering the Amplifier module.
Filtering with only 10,000uf per voltage rail
One channel only was been driven.
Frequency response 10hz to 100khz
THD measured at 100 watts into 8 Ohms 0.01% @1khz
Power Output into 8 Ohms = 450 Watts RMS
Power Output into 4 Ohms = 820 Watts RMS
Damping Factor = 400
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