Another IKEA chassis and mains transformer cover.
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Bas congratulations for the original work on your casing!
I'm just not sure how bamboo get older when it get very dry due to amplifier heat. Not wanting to make you afraid, I have no personal experience, besides everything "flush-jointed" that I have built from wood moves with the time.
I'm just not sure how bamboo get older when it get very dry due to amplifier heat. Not wanting to make you afraid, I have no personal experience, besides everything "flush-jointed" that I have built from wood moves with the time.
Thanks! We will see how time treats this. I was actually suprised to see that the bamboo is actually bamboo veneer on mdf or something...and on the inside looks almost plastic with a bamboo look.
Veneer is sanded by me because of the horrible looking lacquer....and then treated with boiled linseed oil.
PS. Schematic is once again TubeCad PP EL84...20k resistors for the 6n1p. STPSC2H12D rectifiers in power supply. And STPSC2H12D in the cathode of the first stage.
Veneer is sanded by me because of the horrible looking lacquer....and then treated with boiled linseed oil.
PS. Schematic is once again TubeCad PP EL84...20k resistors for the 6n1p. STPSC2H12D rectifiers in power supply. And STPSC2H12D in the cathode of the first stage.
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Because of the solid state rectification... I thought it would be a nice touch to get slow start. So I got the K and K audio slow startup kit. It has a delay with a relay...once the relay kicks in it also ramps up the voltage slowly (3-6) seconds.
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I was actually suprised to see that the bamboo is actually bamboo veneer on mdf or something...and on the inside looks almost plastic with a bamboo look.
We get a lot of bamboo flooring like that, but one can get proper bamboo (plywood here, harder to find in Europe i understand).
Seme of my favorite binding posts on that amp Bas.
dave
Indeed. My next favorite are about 10x as pricey and hard to get standard 3/4” spacing with them.
dave
dave
I like good connectors like that. But it is hard to understand why they call it a ‘5’ way Binding Post:
Insert a Banana Plug
Insert a Wire in the Hole
Use a Spade Lug
Insert a Pin in the Hole
That is only 4 ways.
Oh, wait . . . Wrap a Wire around the Post (now who ever does it that way? ? ?)
I am A-Frayed of that method.
Insert a Banana Plug
Insert a Wire in the Hole
Use a Spade Lug
Insert a Pin in the Hole
That is only 4 ways.
Oh, wait . . . Wrap a Wire around the Post (now who ever does it that way? ? ?)
I am A-Frayed of that method.
I have to say I'm not a fan of most Pomona products (4mm plugs, etc)
I prefer similar to these binding posts (probably twice the cost)
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...MIwOnD64Gy4wIVVfhRCh1MJg9qEAQYICABEgIyRPD_BwE
Thankfully I have several pairs, so I wont need more for some time!
I prefer similar to these binding posts (probably twice the cost)
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...MIwOnD64Gy4wIVVfhRCh1MJg9qEAQYICABEgIyRPD_BwE
Thankfully I have several pairs, so I wont need more for some time!
I prefer similar to these binding posts (probably twice the cost)
Those have more metal in them than i like to see. I would avoid using those.
dave
Ok Dave. I won't pretend to understand that viewpoint.
Either way, I've used both types to work, the Pomona break easily (on test equipment, where they're changed often)
These accept 4mm banana in the top and through the post, which is useful.
The most annoying thing is that the knob screw off completely (annoying when they are lost on site somewhere)
Both are gold plated brass.
Either way, I've used both types to work, the Pomona break easily (on test equipment, where they're changed often)
These accept 4mm banana in the top and through the post, which is useful.
The most annoying thing is that the knob screw off completely (annoying when they are lost on site somewhere)
Both are gold plated brass.
I rarely use the pedestrian Pomona 5-way posts, but love their dual banana. I use the 5-way posts like on Bas’ last amp here.
Or in a pinch i use these (but with the 3/4” spacing chassis “washers”).
dave
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Or in a pinch i use these (but with the 3/4” spacing chassis “washers”).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
dave
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Another IKEA chassis and mains transformer cover.
...ohhhh Bas that's again an amazing beauty !!!!! When they look so nice amps sound also better !!!!! By the way I don't think so you going to have problem with the heat of the amp, the bamboo and any other wood are treated by Ikea in a way that will last really a long time. I bought an Ikea kitchen in Germany and assembled by myself here in Philippines, tropical climate here is really tough, with humidity reaching 97%, well Ikea cabinet after 10 years are immaculate..🙂 ....anyway well done again really admire your design...all the best
@Bas Horneman:
That switch between the two OT's.......?
The K and K audio slow startup kit, where can I see its schematics? Or where can I buy this (if I want to)?
That switch between the two OT's.......?
The K and K audio slow startup kit, where can I see its schematics? Or where can I buy this (if I want to)?
Thank you very much for the compliments! 😀...ohhhh Bas that's again an amazing beauty !!!!!
On/Off and I agree it is not a very good place for that switch. I just don't like bringing it all the way to the front. I thought briefly about putting it on the "superstructure" but that is removeable...and would make taking it off a chore.That switch between the two OT's.......?
I see they sent you a link. Now that I have it ...I realize a delayed switch on.... is good enough... the slow voltage ramp up is nice to have but certainly not necessary...IMO.
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