Bit of a novice question.
In my 5 channel class d amp I'm forever having trouble with dry solder joints on the speaker binding posts. The problem is that the binding posts are quite big and despite having a decent sized soldering iron I can't get the cable between the amp modules and binding posts to hold. The other problem might be I'm using speaker cable for the wiring. I even thought of soldering then gluing to hold things together.
The binding posts have a thread on them to hold them in place. I tried today to create a noose of cable, tinned and tightened up on the post which seemed to work.
However there must be a better way.
Any ideas?
In my 5 channel class d amp I'm forever having trouble with dry solder joints on the speaker binding posts. The problem is that the binding posts are quite big and despite having a decent sized soldering iron I can't get the cable between the amp modules and binding posts to hold. The other problem might be I'm using speaker cable for the wiring. I even thought of soldering then gluing to hold things together.
The binding posts have a thread on them to hold them in place. I tried today to create a noose of cable, tinned and tightened up on the post which seemed to work.
However there must be a better way.
Any ideas?
You might scrape the wires and tin them before soldering. Also, tin the posts. A nice solder coat will make for a solid connection. I assume you are using flux. Unless you risk melting some plastic or burning some wood, be more patient with heat transfer to make sure you get everything hot enough.
Nothing wrong with speaker cable for interconnection.
Nothing wrong with speaker cable for interconnection.
big stuff
I wire my speakers with 10 ga SO3 cable (extra flexible), so a 25 watt iron doesn't do it. I keep a 130 W pistol grip gun to do big stuff like this, or grounds on FP can electrolytic caps. The sears one is fine. You know the temperature is right when the leads to the tip turn red. I can hear the difference between 12' of SO3 or 20' of 16ga zip cord, so it was worth going back and redoing it. Pro bands that can't afford the expensive speaker connectors "Speakons", solder their speaker wires to dual banana plugs, to avoid mixing up the speakers with the guitar output cords or mixer to amp input cords. This is also a huge connection. If you're skillful and don't work on nice furniture or around flammable solvents like contact cleaner, a propane torch from bernzomatic is also useful. I solder ends on 2 gauge battery cables with that. The crimp just doesn't do it at 1000 amps, solder keeps it cool.
I wire my speakers with 10 ga SO3 cable (extra flexible), so a 25 watt iron doesn't do it. I keep a 130 W pistol grip gun to do big stuff like this, or grounds on FP can electrolytic caps. The sears one is fine. You know the temperature is right when the leads to the tip turn red. I can hear the difference between 12' of SO3 or 20' of 16ga zip cord, so it was worth going back and redoing it. Pro bands that can't afford the expensive speaker connectors "Speakons", solder their speaker wires to dual banana plugs, to avoid mixing up the speakers with the guitar output cords or mixer to amp input cords. This is also a huge connection. If you're skillful and don't work on nice furniture or around flammable solvents like contact cleaner, a propane torch from bernzomatic is also useful. I solder ends on 2 gauge battery cables with that. The crimp just doesn't do it at 1000 amps, solder keeps it cool.
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If you are using proper normal electronics solder it has flux in already. Can you post a picture. I suspect it's just that your iron is not powerful enough.
Might not hurt to use some separate flux though also try sanding/filing the internal speaker posts.
richie00boy is probably right there.
You're not using lead-free solder are you? It seems to be the only thing you can get on the UK highstreet these days; it has a higher melting point than "conventional" 60/40 solder, and I don't think I've met anyone with a good word to say about the stuff.
Also, you'll have next to no luck if the wires are significantly tranished or corroded. Worth presevering though!
You're not using lead-free solder are you? It seems to be the only thing you can get on the UK highstreet these days; it has a higher melting point than "conventional" 60/40 solder, and I don't think I've met anyone with a good word to say about the stuff.
Also, you'll have next to no luck if the wires are significantly tranished or corroded. Worth presevering though!
Hello,
Recommendations for soldering the big stuff.
Clean the parts bright and shiny.
Apply a small amount of flux to keep things shiny while they heat.
Tin the end of the conductor.
Shape the end of the tinned conductor and squeeze it onto the binding post end. (Did I say flux to keep things shiny while they heat?)
Put the tip of a 100 watt plus soldering tool sorta of on the tinned conductor and binding post.
Feed the solder in between the iron tip, conductor and binding post. The solder should flow like water in a paper towel.
DT
All just for fun!
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