Alpair 10.2

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I have a question, i recently bought a pair alpair 10.2!
I know they have to be played in a decent amount of hours so i put them in a old Tannoy DC 200 box of 33 liter for now, i sealed the box because i did not nowhow big the bass pipe has to be, and that is my question?
They play very beautiful this way but i mis some bass so i want to port it!
Sorry for my English but i am from Belgium.
Anyway is this a good enclosure for the alpair 10.2 or not, ik like the size of it!

Thank you...

Regards Rudi

I changed my plans to put them in the Tannoy enclosure and build me some Golden Ratio enclosures according the plans on Markaudio website...
I have a question about the stuffing of these, i put foam on al the surfaces except on the baffle, is this the right way or should i remove the faom and fill it with polyfill?
It now sounds quit good but i find the voices missing their sparkkle!
I hope i can get some help here...

Thanks, regards Rudi
Hello Mike and zman,

Mike, i did not chamfer the baffle, does it have such great influense to the sound?
I must say i mounted the driver against the baffle and not in the baffle, it is a 3cm thick solid wood baffle so it could be what you say...
Zman you do mean that i should line all panels but not with foam but whit wool or similar?
I used a acoustic foam that you buy in a diy store!

Regards Rudi
Rudi - 3cm = 1.18", certainly thick enough that without rebating driver for flush fit to front panel, or chamfering the rear side of driver mounting hole - instructions which should have been included in manufacturer's drawings, and which is certainly the practice with most us building enclosures for any of Mark's drivers - could most certainly create some acoustic artifacts not likely to be remedied by changing type or amount of damping fill to enclosures.

If you have the ability to route a rebate in the front panel to recess the driver for flush mounting (IIRC should be approx 9-10mm?), that could mitigate the effect somewhat.

As the width of the required rebate is not likely to match the maximum achievable by regular bearing tipped mortising router bits, the last time I had to do something like this I created a pattern jig slightly larger (1mm or so) than the frame's diameter, clamped it in place with the driver centering it, then removed the driver and proceeded to route with a top bearing pattern following bit. Depending on the solid wood species, it might take several light passes to reach the required depth.
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