allen bradley resistors?

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It matters again, how much you want to spend. If you do cost no object amp you might use Vishay or Caddock, but I don't think you are willing to spend $4-10 a pc. Some people tantalum resistors, other choose Allen Bradley, but the last don't have great tolerance, are limited in values and used mostly in tube equipment.
I myself favour Holcos. They were used mostly by Sonic Frontiers and two major distributors of exotic audio parts for diy, Michael Percy and Welbourne Labs, stock them too. Next step up would be Caddock MK132 at $4 a pc.
Holco resistors received good reviews and on certain occasions I prefer them to Caddocks. To tell the truth I started using Caddocks only recently, because they seemed too expensive to me and I really didn't think that resistors make a difference. It changed now, every component makes a difference. It all depends how much resolution your system has. I trust my ears and I'm not looking for evidence.;)
Holcos are around $0.50 a pc. They recently introduced new line, which is no longer non magnetic and apparently doesn't sound as good as old ones. The above distributors stil stock the old production though. Welbourne Labs started to sell Dale resistors now, when Holcos are not as good anymore, and the price is around $0.20 a pc. They say they are almost as good as old Holcos.
Early Alephs 0 used 1W Matsushita resistors everywhere, available from Digi-Key, and received phenomenal reviews.
awesome, you are just a constant source of great info.

the only reason i really ask, is because they have a box of like 30K allen bradley's on ebay, of various types for like $10. i invested in a great multimeter, with 0.1% accuracy, so tolerences arent really that high on my list... i will test EVERY component before it goes in.

but basically, and of those you mentioned are worth getting minus the new holcos? (in your opinion of course...)
yep, thats it. i hestitated mentioning it because i didnt want competition. but whatever, if i get it, i will gladly send free ones to anyone who asks. i can even find the closest match.

i might use them, i might not, we will see. is it bad to mix and match?

JoeBob said:
13 pounds of resistors? Currently at US $8.50 with 3h left? Is that what you're looking at? Hell, even if some people prefer other brands to allen bradly, go for it, you can't really get any resistor for that price.
I found a great deal on 1/2w Shinkoh tantalum film resistors from Audio Note(close out special). I purchased enough for my a40 project and for an Aleph 2 that I will build next. I'm not sure exactly what difference they will make, I bought them because they were only $1.80 each and everything I've found about says people really love them. They were recommended for both tube and solid state gear. The Allen Bradley seemed (in what I found about them) to be mostly preferred for tubes. I am wondering if either the Allens or the Shinkohs will make solid state gear like the Aleph2 sound a little bit more like "tube stuff". The only comparisons I will be able to make, however, are between the a40 and the Aleph2 and a set of Marantz MA500 monoblocks that I am currently using... It will probably be a few more months before my a40 is up and running.
Joined 2002

I know I'm too late with my input since the auction is done, but I'm on lunch now so I'll post anyway.

I have the BrianGT Aleph boards so I'm going to use the Vashay-Dale RN60's he designed the boards for. But, I have also amassed a large variety of no-name metal film (I'm sure they have a name, I just don't know it) resistors that I'll used in the areas where I need some variability during the construction process. I can then replace them later with the Dales, once everything is set and the amp is working properly.

I'm sure there will be more on eBay,
Rodd Yamas***a
yeah. right now i just kinda want to get the thing together....

i think i will get some reasonable quality components (not radioshack), and just populate the boards, test it out. then, once i get more money, i can upgrade the components to make it a GREAT sounding machine.

black gate caps would be nice, but the budget just isnt there now. i WILL however spend the money using solid silver internal wiring, good binding posts, etc... in the beginning. then, the components will be the varying factor.

ive read that the first solder joint is best, but ive read the opposite too. and reasoning behind each is opinion (although i like the reasoning behind the latter better.) so, i dont have a problem replacing components for better ones a few months down the road. if i waited to save money for the best now, i would never build the thing.
From my experience, if I don't do it the first time, I usually don't put better components later, even if I have them. It's just too much hassle. And don't be obsessed with the best. If you don't believe that spikes make difference, you might not see a difference in resistors either.;)
Just joking.:) But average parts (from Digi-Key) combined with good design (from Pass) sound pretty decent too.
the only reason i dont hear the difference in spikes (i know it was mostly kidding, but some truth to it), is that i use a computer for all my source. its decent quality, all 224kbps optical out. it honestly does sound great. but, with that, you might agree, spikes wouldnt matter.

so, WHEN (not if... hehe) i upgrade that, maybe i will notice a difference. but i am one to be picky, so maybe the resistors will matter. i have my speakers positioned within 1" of where i want them.

but i can see what you mean. i honestly think my speakers and the rest of my system will limit the performance of my amps. (god i love my speakers, but they arent the best in the world, they are just the best in their price range).

but i AM one to replace the components... i will go in there an start swapping things in and out.

i honestly still have yet to see a parts list for the aleph2's. once i get the boards and the part list, i will see what i will buy, depending on what i need. if i need 1000 different resistors, well, i might downgrade those... etc. plus, certain values are cheap on certain sites :)

but, after hearing other people's experiences, i think mine will sound alright. very few people seem to really spend the time on the components and seem to rely more on the design. and they LOVE the sound.
Joined 2002

From my experience, if I don't do it the first time, I usually don't put better components later, even if I have them. It's just too much hassle.

That goes double for me "Procrastinator Extraodinaire", but I'm alway optimistic before the project starts.

If you don't believe that spikes make difference, you might not see a difference in resistors either.

With the efficiency of my horns I'm going to have to do everything I can to get the noise floor as low as possible. This will help with the first issue as well, unless I want to hear the noise in the background of everything I listen to.

Why do today what can the put off 'till tomorrow.
Rodd Yamas***a
Sooo, to continue.

Regarding to what Mr. Pass mentioned
"Our experience with the Holcos was that they tended
to fail if operated near their power ratings. I suggest
not exceeding 1/2 the wattage rating of the Holco
resistor just to be safe."

Nelson Pass.

and having in mind that most of the HOLCO-s values, that are
needed in Aleph's, are in H8 1/4 Watts series, like for example
221 Ohm or 75 Ohm , then what??? Kind of weird :confused:

I have ordered mixed package from Welborne Labs, some of them
Caddock some Holco and for power resistors Matsushita 2W Metal Oxide.
What is your opinion for 1/4 W resistors, can they bee used and
haw safely is this for all project.

Thanks kindly:confused:

Holcos are $.60, Caddocks $3.90. You would have to try them in a circuit and compare. I tried Caddocs MK132 in my DAC as V/I resistor and preffered Holcos in that place. They sounded smoother while Caddocks somwhat boomier. If you want to try Caddocs I would first put them in place of series resistors at the input and maybe as gate resistors at output mosfets but not necessarily at current source mosfets.
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