I'm interested in this non-contact sensor.
Can anyone tell me more about the design, would putting better (different) resistors on the board be of any benefit? There are 4 sensors with domed lense like faces on the hole side. The two bottom sensors or emitting diodes which sit in a space with a tiny hole under them (just like the top two) have red marks on the top, bottom and sides of the sensors. The top two don't have these red markings. Does anyone know why the diodes have red markings? I'm trying to source in PN150 and LN55 but they appear to both be discontinued, and I can't find any old stock for sale. Are there any components that would function as substitutes if I wanted to put all new components in a backup end sensor board?
Basically I restored a D50 that was in a very bad state with every fault going. Towards the end of the restoration, after the first test runs when the motor was repaired, I realised it sounds quite incredible. I was so shocked that I decided to source a backup end sensor, as it seemed the most complex part.
Thanks for any advice!
Can anyone tell me more about the design, would putting better (different) resistors on the board be of any benefit? There are 4 sensors with domed lense like faces on the hole side. The two bottom sensors or emitting diodes which sit in a space with a tiny hole under them (just like the top two) have red marks on the top, bottom and sides of the sensors. The top two don't have these red markings. Does anyone know why the diodes have red markings? I'm trying to source in PN150 and LN55 but they appear to both be discontinued, and I can't find any old stock for sale. Are there any components that would function as substitutes if I wanted to put all new components in a backup end sensor board?
Basically I restored a D50 that was in a very bad state with every fault going. Towards the end of the restoration, after the first test runs when the motor was repaired, I realised it sounds quite incredible. I was so shocked that I decided to source a backup end sensor, as it seemed the most complex part.
Thanks for any advice!
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I had to replace one for a machine, it was made by Omron, quite reasonable price, it is an industrial gap sensor, about 3.3V to the emitter diodes, one wire (ground / shield ) is common in the loom, the unit had four wires.
In an emergency, IR diodes from a remote may be tried.
To be clear, the whole unit, ready to use, screw mount to machine, was about $1.50. That was some years back, so I do not know if the item is still made by Omron.
Just measure the gap between the two black bits, where I assume the sensing will occur, and the PCB size, with mounting details.
Then look for it, it should be easy to obtain.
In an emergency, IR diodes from a remote may be tried.
To be clear, the whole unit, ready to use, screw mount to machine, was about $1.50. That was some years back, so I do not know if the item is still made by Omron.
Just measure the gap between the two black bits, where I assume the sensing will occur, and the PCB size, with mounting details.
Then look for it, it should be easy to obtain.
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Many Logitech mice use optical sensors for the scroll wheel, so that is a possible source.
I just checked, Schneider, Panasonic and many others make those things, you have many choices, about $2 and up for the complete modules.
I stress that I have no ties to any businesses named above.
I just checked, Schneider, Panasonic and many others make those things, you have many choices, about $2 and up for the complete modules.
I stress that I have no ties to any businesses named above.
Thanks for all the help!
Currently the tonearm lifts and returns to the holder maybe once or twice in every three plays of an album, typically at the start of a record or three quarters in. What do you guys think could be happening here?
Currently the tonearm lifts and returns to the holder maybe once or twice in every three plays of an album, typically at the start of a record or three quarters in. What do you guys think could be happening here?