Here is what I would like to do: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/sony-ubp-x800-psu-tweak.381585/#post-7518240
If I bought an external PSU like this the one below would I need to add a choke?
Is it necessary to add the ground to the mb?
Can't I just buy the psu below and hook it up directly to the player without choke and ground to mb?
Any other way to wire this that would be better in your opinion?
Tried asking in the above thread, but was without luck.
I'm a noob so any help at all is appreciated! Thank you!
If I bought an external PSU like this the one below would I need to add a choke?
Is it necessary to add the ground to the mb?
Can't I just buy the psu below and hook it up directly to the player without choke and ground to mb?
Any other way to wire this that would be better in your opinion?
Tried asking in the above thread, but was without luck.
I'm a noob so any help at all is appreciated! Thank you!
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According to the other thread the power supply needs two 12volt outputs (the pic you provided shows a power supply with only 5v outputs). (If not two outputs, then one 12v output rail with an inductor in series with one of the two load connections.) Regarding grounds, each output rail may have its own ground. Power and ground for each output would need to be connected to the MB, just as the old power supply was connected. Didn't see if it said how much current needs to be supplied, although someone suggested a 3-amp rating. Probably the choke is to do extra filtering so that the power will be lower noise. In that case whether or not you might need a choke would depend on how low-noise the replacement power supply is, and maybe depending on whether it has one or two 12v rails. If there is an existing choke, probably okay to keep it.
Just something to be aware of: If you connect the power up wrong you may risk destruction of the X800M2.
How much do you know about such things? Do you have a DVM?
Also, why do you want to replace the power supply?
Just something to be aware of: If you connect the power up wrong you may risk destruction of the X800M2.
How much do you know about such things? Do you have a DVM?
Also, why do you want to replace the power supply?
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@Markw4 didn't see an option to quote you..
I can find a PSU with two output, np. Yes I can have them configured it for 12v. The only two wires I see inside connected to the mb are a grey and a white. Are both wires positive?
I do have a DMV.
I have very limited knowledge.
Replacing the PSU for better quality.
Thank you for your time!
I can find a PSU with two output, np. Yes I can have them configured it for 12v. The only two wires I see inside connected to the mb are a grey and a white. Are both wires positive?
I do have a DMV.
I have very limited knowledge.
Replacing the PSU for better quality.
Thank you for your time!
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There can't just be two positive rails and no ground. IOW, power supplies require a return path for the current they source to the load circuit. So a DC power supply will always have + and - output terminals. Whether or not either of them is connected to chassis ground is another matter.
Anyway, looking at this pic from the other thread...
If this is the board you have, then you can try with the power off, measuring resistance from the white wire to ground, and from the gray wire to ground (the ground screw at the lower left).
With the power on you can also try measuring volts between the gray and while wires. The Red (V+) lead of the meter will read a positive voltage if the red lead is more positive than the black lead (COM). If the red lead is less positive than the black lead then the meter will measure a negative value. From that you can figure out which power supply wire is + and which is -, what the actual voltage is, and if either power supply wire is connected to what looks like its a chassis ground screw (which you can check with your ohmmeter function by measuring resistance from the screw to another point on the chassis).
Anyway, looking at this pic from the other thread...
If this is the board you have, then you can try with the power off, measuring resistance from the white wire to ground, and from the gray wire to ground (the ground screw at the lower left).
With the power on you can also try measuring volts between the gray and while wires. The Red (V+) lead of the meter will read a positive voltage if the red lead is more positive than the black lead (COM). If the red lead is less positive than the black lead then the meter will measure a negative value. From that you can figure out which power supply wire is + and which is -, what the actual voltage is, and if either power supply wire is connected to what looks like its a chassis ground screw (which you can check with your ohmmeter function by measuring resistance from the screw to another point on the chassis).
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BTW, there is no quote button for the last post in a thread. However, you can still quote from it by highlighting with the mouse the words you want to quote. Then a little quote button appears which you can click on.
EDIT: Also, as an aside: DVM stands for Digital Volt Meter.
EDIT: Also, as an aside: DVM stands for Digital Volt Meter.
Yes I figured it wasn't about cars.Also, as an aside: DVM stands for Digital Volt Meter
I will read all this and digest it in a bit. Thank you!
Attached is how it was originally, not modified. No ground to the mb. Just a straight connection from positive and negative on the PSU to the mb.There can't just be two positive rails and no ground. IOW, power supplies require a return path for the current they source to the load circuit. So a DC power supply will always have + and - output terminals. Whether or not either of them is connected to chassis ground is another matter.
Anyway, looking at this pic from the other thread...
View attachment 1240291
If this is the board you have, then you can try with the power off, measuring resistance from the white wire to ground, and from the gray wire to ground (the ground screw at the lower left).
With the power on you can also try measuring volts between the gray and while wires. The Red (V+) lead of the meter will read a positive voltage if the red lead is more positive than the black lead (COM). If the red lead is less positive than the black lead then the meter will measure a negative value. From that you can figure out which power supply wire is + and which is -, what the actual voltage is, and if either power supply wire is connected to what looks like its a chassis ground screw (which you can check with your ohmmeter function by measuring resistance from the screw to another point on the chassis).
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Okay. And its 12VDC, white is (+), and black is (-) ...is that correct/confirmed?
Also, if the reason for doing this is to see if you can get the unit to sound better, then you might want to try using an external linear power supply. SMPS may be smaller and more efficient, but they tend to make electrical noise arising from their switching transients. Some people replace SMPS in expensive Chord dacs with linear supplies. Haven't heard one myself though. If you do want to stick with SMPS, then Meanwell has a good reputation for doing a pretty good job with noise suppression. However, some people still add additional filtering after Meanwell SMPS depending on how sensitive the load circuitry is to switching noise.
Also, if the reason for doing this is to see if you can get the unit to sound better, then you might want to try using an external linear power supply. SMPS may be smaller and more efficient, but they tend to make electrical noise arising from their switching transients. Some people replace SMPS in expensive Chord dacs with linear supplies. Haven't heard one myself though. If you do want to stick with SMPS, then Meanwell has a good reputation for doing a pretty good job with noise suppression. However, some people still add additional filtering after Meanwell SMPS depending on how sensitive the load circuitry is to switching noise.
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I haven't had a chance to confirm yet with a DMV, but certainly will. Thank you for the help tip.Okay. And its 12VDC, white is (+), and black is (-) ...is that correct/confirmed?
Also, if the reason for doing this is to see if you can get the unit to sound better, then you might want to try using an external linear power supply. SMPS may be smaller and more efficient, but they tend to make electrical noise arising from their switching transients. Some people replace SMPS in expensive Chord dacs with linear supplies. Haven't heard one myself though. If you do want to stick with SMPS, then Meanwell has a good reputation for doing a pretty good job with noise suppression. However, some people still add additional filtering after Meanwell SMPS depending on how sensitive the load circuitry is to switching noise.
I will use a external 12v linear PSU 3amps. So it looks like I can just do a straight shot, positive and negative to an aviation plug and hook up a external PSU correct?
Looks like it should work....correct?
@Markw4
I finally figured out how the original guy wired it up. The grey (positive) goes from mb directly to the gx16 positive. There are two white wires which are grounds. One goes from mb to the choke then to the gx16 negative. The other ground goes from the mb screw directly to the gx16 negative.
Now my question is why have two grounding points? If it's better why and how?
I finally figured out how the original guy wired it up. The grey (positive) goes from mb directly to the gx16 positive. There are two white wires which are grounds. One goes from mb to the choke then to the gx16 negative. The other ground goes from the mb screw directly to the gx16 negative.
Now my question is why have two grounding points? If it's better why and how?
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Not clear if 'gx16' refers to the existing power supply?
Regarding the term 'ground' we have to be careful about what we mean by it. There is Earth ground, AC power line ground, chassis ground, etc. There is also often a common node in a circuit we refer to as ground.
It means I need to understand what you mean by saying there are two white wires that are grounds. Do you mean they form a ground loop? Do you mean the both connect to the chassis? Regarding the white wire that goes through in choke, does the gray wire also go through the same choke? If two wires go though the choke, do they both wrap around it the same number of turns?
The best way to understand what is going on is to draw a schematic that shows all those things. Schematics are often much easier to analyze that pics.
In order to draw a schematic is may be necessary to ring out the wiring with a meter, and or examine it visually. For one thing, I don' know if you have determine that white wire going into the connector on the MB is grounded at the other end, or where? I don't know if its only ground through the screw in the corner of the circuit board? I don't know if the screw in the corner of the circuit board connects to the white wire in the connector in the circuit board or not?
All the above sorts of things need to be clearly understood to make sense. So what to do is turn off the power, remove the power plug from the MB, remove the white wire and the screw in the corner of the board, then start measuring ohms to chassis ground. Is anything still connected to chassis ground, the MB, any of the wires, etc. If the wires are connected to ground at their other ends, then trace out where.
To emphasize again: Once you have clearly understood the all of the grounding circuit, then best to sketch a schematic of it which includes showing every point at which wires are connected to the chassis and or AC line ground.
Why do it that way? Ground is much more complicated for good sound than is often understood. Please see the attached, and search for the words 'veiled' and or 'grainy.'
Also please search for the word 'blame' and read the pages that follow. Even better to read the whole thing. Its important stuff.
Regarding the term 'ground' we have to be careful about what we mean by it. There is Earth ground, AC power line ground, chassis ground, etc. There is also often a common node in a circuit we refer to as ground.
It means I need to understand what you mean by saying there are two white wires that are grounds. Do you mean they form a ground loop? Do you mean the both connect to the chassis? Regarding the white wire that goes through in choke, does the gray wire also go through the same choke? If two wires go though the choke, do they both wrap around it the same number of turns?
The best way to understand what is going on is to draw a schematic that shows all those things. Schematics are often much easier to analyze that pics.
In order to draw a schematic is may be necessary to ring out the wiring with a meter, and or examine it visually. For one thing, I don' know if you have determine that white wire going into the connector on the MB is grounded at the other end, or where? I don't know if its only ground through the screw in the corner of the circuit board? I don't know if the screw in the corner of the circuit board connects to the white wire in the connector in the circuit board or not?
All the above sorts of things need to be clearly understood to make sense. So what to do is turn off the power, remove the power plug from the MB, remove the white wire and the screw in the corner of the board, then start measuring ohms to chassis ground. Is anything still connected to chassis ground, the MB, any of the wires, etc. If the wires are connected to ground at their other ends, then trace out where.
To emphasize again: Once you have clearly understood the all of the grounding circuit, then best to sketch a schematic of it which includes showing every point at which wires are connected to the chassis and or AC line ground.
Why do it that way? Ground is much more complicated for good sound than is often understood. Please see the attached, and search for the words 'veiled' and or 'grainy.'
Also please search for the word 'blame' and read the pages that follow. Even better to read the whole thing. Its important stuff.
Attachments
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