I still have active Studio Monitors. I don't like them. They are missing things. Not "colour" but actual elements like the decay of a xylophone or the depth of a room.
I originally planned on replacing the drivers and realized I'd have over $1000 invested in not so nice monitors.
My lastest Idea is too buy 1 ART SLA-1 amp (100 Watts rms/ch), an SLA-@ (200 Watts/Ch) and an an ART 311 2 Way active X-Over.
The amps have good reviews from audiophiles and there are some known mods.
The outputs of the X-over are unbalanced which may be good to keep phase between drivers. I would like to finish by maybe buying some matched Morel drivers.
Is 100Watts for tweeter and 200Watts for 8" woofer a good combination?
I originally planned on replacing the drivers and realized I'd have over $1000 invested in not so nice monitors.
My lastest Idea is too buy 1 ART SLA-1 amp (100 Watts rms/ch), an SLA-@ (200 Watts/Ch) and an an ART 311 2 Way active X-Over.
The amps have good reviews from audiophiles and there are some known mods.
The outputs of the X-over are unbalanced which may be good to keep phase between drivers. I would like to finish by maybe buying some matched Morel drivers.
Is 100Watts for tweeter and 200Watts for 8" woofer a good combination?
Hi,
if you use unmatched amps for the bass & treble you then need to place the amps between the speakers with long and potentially expensive cables to each.
You are throwing away one of the active advantages - very short cables.
Alternatively go monoblock with matched half pairs located right at the terminals, maybe even missing out the terminals and connect cables from drive unit direct to amp outputs.
Look at sensitivity and dbV out of the amps. Add the two together to compare SPL of the drivers. The treble in general do not consume lots of power (ribbons and others are exceptions) but often use the same volts drive due to very short rise (and fall) time of transients.
if you use unmatched amps for the bass & treble you then need to place the amps between the speakers with long and potentially expensive cables to each.
You are throwing away one of the active advantages - very short cables.
Alternatively go monoblock with matched half pairs located right at the terminals, maybe even missing out the terminals and connect cables from drive unit direct to amp outputs.
Look at sensitivity and dbV out of the amps. Add the two together to compare SPL of the drivers. The treble in general do not consume lots of power (ribbons and others are exceptions) but often use the same volts drive due to very short rise (and fall) time of transients.
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