Im new to home theater and apparently have already committed the cardinal sin of buying Bose speakers. At least I bought a used set of Bose Acoustimass 15 and paid about one quarter of the price of a new set. I also bought a Yamaha RX-V2500 receiver (130 w x 7). Is it possible to use the Acoustimass subwoffer w/o using the special wiring that came with the speakers. My room is already wired with standard speaker cable and I would like to us ethe Acoustimass subwoffer with the standard speaker wiring. If this is not possible, could someone recommend a subwoofer that would work well with the Yamaha receiver.
Thanks,
db113
Thanks,
db113
db113 said:
Just looked at the B*$e web site & found their Acoustimass 15 manual. Looks like you should just be able to plug in the RCA jack on the funky cord to the LFE output on the receiver, but you will need the cord from receiver --> sub (or cobble your own for the LFE).
Good luck!
BTW, don't worry about the "sin". I stumbled across diyaudio a couple of years ago when I was looking to buy B*$e, 'cuz of course they're the best
. (But not before I'd spent $300 on some other speakers that are now acting as doorstops).mk
P.S. - The individual double cube speakers go for $75 - $150 each on ebay... If you liked the sub, you could keep it, sell the cubes!
Link to manuals: B*$e manuals
the "subwoofer" is actually not techinically a subwoofer because of its frequency range. that is why its called a bass module by bose.
it will play very high as it doesnt have an adequate crossover for a subwoofer. so, you will get voices through it unless you send it an appropriate bass signal from the preamp or whatever.
you might be best off selling it all and doing some DIY (i assume that's why you are here).
it will play very high as it doesnt have an adequate crossover for a subwoofer. so, you will get voices through it unless you send it an appropriate bass signal from the preamp or whatever.
you might be best off selling it all and doing some DIY (i assume that's why you are here).
i once thought of getting one of the passive bass moduals on ebay and adding a plate amp to see what would happen...
oh oh i just remembered, something...
back in '95 or '97 or something, my aunt got a adcom preamp, amp, amd cd changer, and a bose acoustimass 2.1 system, she asked me to hook it all up and so i did... it sounded all right till i put the bass outlaws
"illegal bass" cd in the player. i in my entire life have i ever heard that much distortion at such a low volume. i barely turned up the volume and it sounded like a a bunch of fast farts... put culture club in and it sounded all right again, bass outlaws, crap... i left so sickened
oh oh i just remembered, something...
back in '95 or '97 or something, my aunt got a adcom preamp, amp, amd cd changer, and a bose acoustimass 2.1 system, she asked me to hook it all up and so i did... it sounded all right till i put the bass outlaws
"illegal bass" cd in the player. i in my entire life have i ever heard that much distortion at such a low volume. i barely turned up the volume and it sounded like a a bunch of fast farts... put culture club in and it sounded all right again, bass outlaws, crap... i left so sickened
Well, the Intellexual.net review looks at the S&V freqency response chart and says there is a -10dB hole between 200 and 280 Hz. I don't think that's exactly true, because we don't see a resultant summed frequency response, just the response of individual parts. The hole is probably more of a 'dip' than anything else. However, that does not redeem the Bose system from its other undesirable characteristics.
Oops, I'm sorry for referring to the Bose bass module as a "sub". I should just call it a "B.M." for short.
Oops, I'm sorry for referring to the Bose bass module as a "sub". I should just call it a "B.M." for short.
My suspicion is that summation isn't going to fix a lot of that. I guess I would call that more of a suck-out than a dip. Maybe it is a matter of semantics. I guess one could blame the satellites for not having enough low end extension. Either way, it comes down to poor incorporation of the components.
what i wanted to do was prety much the same except pull the x-overs and hook the amp up directly to the drivers ( if you want to call them that), im sure the impedence would be a factor though. any one know the Z of each of the bass moduals drivers? or better yet a color photo of a cut away of the in sides? that would be cool too...Cyrus_s said:
for a sub, do what i am planing on doing. Atlas 15 7cubes net tuned to 18Hz after bracing, port, and metal sheeting inside to lower Fs of the enclsore walls. expecting it to weigh over 100lbs 
but also give good responce down to 15Hz which is plenty for most movies.
or you can do us all a favor.
Get an Adire 18 Tumult. Fs of 15, yes 15, Hz. probably capebale of a good respince down into the single digits with a large enough enclsore...Adire pwnz...
but also give good responce down to 15Hz which is plenty for most movies.or you can do us all a favor.
Get an Adire 18 Tumult. Fs of 15, yes 15, Hz. probably capebale of a good respince down into the single digits with a large enough enclsore...Adire pwnz...
CBFryman said:for a sub, do what i am planing on doing. Atlas 15 7cubes net tuned to 18Hz after bracing, port, and metal sheeting inside to lower Fs of the enclsore walls. expecting it to weigh over 100lbs
or you can do us all a favor.
Get an Adire 18 Tumult. Fs of 15, yes 15, Hz. probably capebale of a good respince down into the single digits with a large enough enclsore...Adire pwnz...
At ~750 for a single Tumult 18, one can afford almost two Av18's. I'd take 1100L for 50 bucks more over 560L displacement.
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