@6sX7 The cheap gun type like the Vcelink on amazon work just fine and are good up to 24ga.
You probably saw something like the old school jaw type Kleins. A little more money, good up to 22ga and much more substantial. I use tools professionally, swear by Klein generally but carry the cheap Vcelinks in this case.
You probably saw something like the old school jaw type Kleins. A little more money, good up to 22ga and much more substantial. I use tools professionally, swear by Klein generally but carry the cheap Vcelinks in this case.
Thanks! I'm going to go looking. PM might be inbounds. Waiting to see what all I find based on the suggestions.
Long ago, while on a factory tour at Mark Levinson, I was told they use mechanical, crimp, connections first and seal the joint with solder. After researching a bit, the choice of crimp or solder largely comes down to the skill of the builder. It is not clear that "sealing " the joint with solder has advantages that outweigh the downside, largely that it makes the joint more brittle. That being said, here is a link to a chart by NASA.
A properly done crimp connection forms a cold weld that is gas tight.
It is difficult to make a proper crimp, therefore solder is a reasonable means of ensuring a strong and stable connection. The crimp forms the mechanical bond and solder keeps it gas tight.
Making a good solder joint also requires knowledge and practice. No free lunch.
It is difficult to make a proper crimp, therefore solder is a reasonable means of ensuring a strong and stable connection. The crimp forms the mechanical bond and solder keeps it gas tight.
Making a good solder joint also requires knowledge and practice. No free lunch.
Knipex makes a decent Wire stripper, and they're even reasonably priced.
Their crimp tools are also very good, but brutality expensive. One tool can be used for many jaws though, not that their jaws are cheap neither.
I recall Dynaco kits, and later the Audio by Van Alstein kits, were paint by number. They told you how long to cut wire, and how much insulation to strip away on the tips even! Pics as you went along, etc. I never bought any of the Heath Kit stuff....
Russellc
I just bought an automatic one. Amazon, about a C note. Haven't used it yet ....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08DL7LZ1K?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Hmmm, I was looking at one of Knipex's cheaper ones. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PAR60...CV9I4GDU&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Been thinking of redoing my bench tools with a bunch of Knipex stuff. Still haven't made much decisions on anything audio related. Still settling into the new house.
Been thinking of redoing my bench tools with a bunch of Knipex stuff. Still haven't made much decisions on anything audio related. Still settling into the new house.
For pliers, wire strippers and the like, I prefer mid-grade Japanese tools made by Engineer, Tsunoda, Keiba, IPS. Fit and finish is very good for a reasonable price. Engineer's solder sucker is so much better than those cheap plastic things. All available on Amazon.
FWIW, while Klein has been the undisputed king of hand tools in the N. American electrical trades for decades, Knipex is rapidly gaining ground. They're the first real contender in the field since I started in the early 80's. I plan on trying their gear but you can have my klein 8" d2000 diagonals when you pry them from my cold, dead hands.
What's next? A serious challenger to Fluke? (I do love my Brymen 869 😉 )
What's next? A serious challenger to Fluke? (I do love my Brymen 869 😉 )
This appears to be very similar to the Vampire Sucker that I use 👍for this type. I recently acquired a Hakko FR301, which is designed for Japan's AC, but works beautifully, and is nearly $150 less than Amazon for the American version.
