i ordered this amp, it should be here next weak
came with crossover i have a plan
bridged all channels, use 1-2 and 3-4 as full range, 5-6 to run a 150watt 15
i have heard this amp will not run a sub... safely
and it will show as 2ohms since it is 4 ohms bridged
the manual said it may get hot...
is this a bad idea??? i want to run this amp for 20 more years or so
PS: this is Phoenix can get 120 F in summer the trunk is, i know its hot so but i don't wanna know how hot
came with crossover i have a plan
bridged all channels, use 1-2 and 3-4 as full range, 5-6 to run a 150watt 15
i have heard this amp will not run a sub... safely
and it will show as 2ohms since it is 4 ohms bridged
the manual said it may get hot...
is this a bad idea??? i want to run this amp for 20 more years or so
PS: this is Phoenix can get 120 F in summer the trunk is, i know its hot so but i don't wanna know how hot
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if the amp is only rated for 4 ohms bridged and you wire it too low you will have issues. If not immediate, definitely in the future... IF, your sub is 2ohms then either get a second identical sub and wire the coils in a series or else, buy another sub. Assuming you only wanna run the one amp.
no no no
sub is 4 ohm 3.2 since cheap bums don't make true 4 ohm
i just mean when its bridged it register as 2ohm load...
i want someone with experience to know if its safe to run a small sub...
or will i just hurt this amp
sub is 4 ohm 3.2 since cheap bums don't make true 4 ohm
i just mean when its bridged it register as 2ohm load...
i want someone with experience to know if its safe to run a small sub...
or will i just hurt this amp
I'm not sure who told you what... buuut... If your sub reads 3.2ohms then it doesn't matter if you wire it to the left channel, right channel, or bridged mode. The amp will still see the sub as a 3.2ohm load. ...well until you feed it a signal, then the speaker will move (and a bunch of other things happen) and you get a phenomenon called "impedance rise". Where the amp will actually see a higher resistance... and a lot of fluctuation in resistance.
So basically if your sub is 3.2ohms, I would think you are safe to wire it bridged if the amp is 4ohm stable bridged.
So basically if your sub is 3.2ohms, I would think you are safe to wire it bridged if the amp is 4ohm stable bridged.
thats kinda what i asked
this is old school amps by the way they don't always function the same way...
i just wanna know if the amp is ok to run a sub
this is old school amps by the way they don't always function the same way...
i just wanna know if the amp is ok to run a sub
well something happened...
i installed it but, it has some weird channel problems.
it sounds like it isn't properly grounded. trust me it is grounded by ground with wire just as thick as input.
when it has any real power output (5 watts or more) it clicks and does strange tone response, just like theres some building up charge. If you turn it down it will die down again then in a few mins it may start up a little, when its turned up it will act up.
Any body got any ideas?
By the way its on all channels
i installed it but, it has some weird channel problems.
it sounds like it isn't properly grounded. trust me it is grounded by ground with wire just as thick as input.
when it has any real power output (5 watts or more) it clicks and does strange tone response, just like theres some building up charge. If you turn it down it will die down again then in a few mins it may start up a little, when its turned up it will act up.
Any body got any ideas?
By the way its on all channels
This may be too late but that particular amp has to be isolated from any metal on the body.
The Linear Power amps had grommets on the mounting holes to isolate them from ground. I have never seen nor read that the a/d/s/ amps need to be isolated.
Do you have a reference for your comment? (Asking in case I am unaware)
I have had many and still have some a/d/s/ amps and have never isolated any of them.
a/d/a/ P640.2 -> 2 pairs of a/d/s/ 336.2is & a/d/s/ S10...
I own one and use to sell them at a local high end audio store. The models you refer to are probably newer models that weren't available back then. Better than 20 years ago. I don't recall any of the amps back then coming with grommets. The models back then were the PS5, PQ10,PQ20 and PH15.
I owned the a/d/s/ PQ10 and 20. Neither required isolation. And yes I installed them >20 yrs ago..
We always isolated them. I had an issue personally when I first got mine. That's how I found out.
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