As was suggested by an old professor at the school teach us, called Todoruck (or the like, I don't remember exactly his name after more than 30 years), when testing some unknown state stuff or during repairs or restoration on electric appliances, we must provide some kind of current limitation in the event that the DUT is severely faulty. This is usually and easily accomplished by inserting a lamp (Filament, not led nor fluorescent) in series with the DUT and the live wire of the net.
This is my system. A box with 3 lamps (From left to right, 300W, 150W and 100W and out of socket, another of 75W), and the left down switches connect one per switch in parallel between them, and the set in series with the live wire of my net. So I can make any combination of 75W to 550W (2.5A @220V) to test my unknown devices. I the pic below, you can see also a double outlet, the gray one is direct to line whilst the white is in the series system. There are three of them in the same code under the workbench. Last pic illustrates a test lead with crocodiles terminals for use with incomplete devices, like a trafo alone, a ballast, a motor, a lamp, etc.
I believe that a schematic is superfluous but in case it would be necessary, I can make one.
The rest of the switchs and a white pushbutton enables a interlocked contactor, so small or shorts power shutdowns do not affect other services from this electric board.
Expect that it be of utility, mainly for noobs.
This is my system. A box with 3 lamps (From left to right, 300W, 150W and 100W and out of socket, another of 75W), and the left down switches connect one per switch in parallel between them, and the set in series with the live wire of my net. So I can make any combination of 75W to 550W (2.5A @220V) to test my unknown devices. I the pic below, you can see also a double outlet, the gray one is direct to line whilst the white is in the series system. There are three of them in the same code under the workbench. Last pic illustrates a test lead with crocodiles terminals for use with incomplete devices, like a trafo alone, a ballast, a motor, a lamp, etc.
I believe that a schematic is superfluous but in case it would be necessary, I can make one.
The rest of the switchs and a white pushbutton enables a interlocked contactor, so small or shorts power shutdowns do not affect other services from this electric board.
Expect that it be of utility, mainly for noobs.
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I live alone and enjoy it. Most of the time the relay is in the off state because of hazard danger. Net power here is very dangerous. Electricity company has third smaller companies called here "terceristas" (No English appropriate translation). Terceristas use low quality employees and are not uncommon that they confuse lives and neutral when making a new connection or repairing burned wires.
A family known by a ham Radio in Lanus lost all their house while in vacations. The under street cable has burned, and the "terceristas" mixed lives and neutral. As a result, TV's and AA actuated their MOV's starting fire. Then, part of the burning plastic, melted, drop in the bed. All the house become in fire quickly.
Then, when I go home I switch it on, but when I abandon it, power is off in all the house, except my 12V solar system that has its own protection means.
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