$360 for a hole...?

Hello everyone,

I was reading on the forum until late last night about how I can punch a rectangular hole in a piece of sheet metal. To be specific, I'm talking about the sheet metal used in the Hifi2000/DIYAudioShop Pesante chassis. (My ultimate questions are highlighted below.)

I've had the electrical portion of my design project done since last year, and I set out on the task to finish the job, but Hifi2000 says they can't mill/drill/punch/etc. the steel they use in the Pesante rear, side, top, and bottom panels. I have a Schurter AC supply socket that I want to use, but it is bigger than the simple IEC panel cut-outs they offer. I also want to be able to hide the power switch that I selected on the bottom panel of the amp on the front right side.

From what I read here, the "best" solution is to find a Greenlee knockout punch. The knock-out that is closest in size to my power switch is $360. That is a very expensive hole. I also tried to find the q-max punch mentioned, but I was unsuccessful in finding one of an appropriate size. Does anyone have a link to their website? Searching for "qmax" in A LOT of results. I would need still a different size punch for the power cable connector.

Is there a type of professional shop that I can look for that might have these types of tools and could do this for me? I will also need drilling of round holes for I/O in the back panel and holes for mounting the feet in the bottom panel. What kind of shop would have a CNC that can mill 1 mm steel?

Jeff
 
Patience, my young padawan. With drills and files, make holes, you will.
 

Attachments

  • Chassis1.jpeg
    Chassis1.jpeg
    577.4 KB · Views: 537
  • Chassis2.jpeg
    Chassis2.jpeg
    677.4 KB · Views: 534
For a one off?
Change the socket!
Before CNC became common, there was a method called chain drilling, you drilled overlapping holes along the path, then filed to shape.
Tedious, on press tools with High Carbon High Chromium steel, complex shapes.
Wire EDM took a lot of the tedium away...
You can do 1 mm steel with a jig saw as well.
 
That $360 tool will make thousands of holes, it is designed to be used on a press of the right size.
Add shipping, and machine time, and setup spoilage, and you are looking at much more than the tool cost.
Not worth the hassle for a single hole.
 
I would just settle for a small round switch that is easy to drill.

For the switch, I'm seriously considering buying a different one since it will be hidden on the bottom. I may also use the one that I have and move it to the faceplate, which is aluminum and can be easily milled. Just wasn't the aesthetic that I was hoping for.

Before CNC became common, there was a method called chain drilling, you drilled overlapping holes along the path, then filed to shape.
Tedious, on press tools with High Carbon High Chromium steel, complex shapes.
...
You can do 1 mm steel with a jig saw as well.

Do you need to use a drill press with this method? I have only a couple of handheld drills. If I have to, I will try this method. My skills with hand tools aren't the best. 🙂
 
If you have handheld tools it can be easier to not overlap the holes, otherwise the bit will fall into the one next to it half way down and you'll have a mess. It only means you'll need to cut between them afterward.
 
The Electronics side is "easy", "mechanicals" is the curse of the DIYer.

I started making Guitar amps in 1969 and exclusively used Aluminum which is easy to work on, and needs no treatment since it does not rust, I HATE steel sheet with a passion.

From the very beginning used 95% round holes which can be drilled, and bought two Greenlee punch copies , one for chassis mount Fuse holders, another for Noval sockets.

Used them to death and they are still in some tool box.

Octal socket holes were cut with a cup saw.

For the odd rectangular switch hole (which I avoided if possible): couple round holes and a file.

No CNC, water jet, Laser available in the 70s to 90s and machine shops asked for "100 of each" minimum orders, lots of 500 preferred, so .....