3 way driver selection

Hi Folks,
I'm hoping to build my first diy loudspeaker, and thought it a good plan to though out some ideas to you guys, if you kindly had any thoughts on them.

I've a lot of wood work diy experience, good workshop, a fair understanding of the physics in building a new a pair of audiophile speakers.

Also the wife is on board.

Brief plan -
1. 3 way, compact, say 40L to 70 L (depending. It the woofer) standmout.
2. Ported and flared (downwards) , stepped baffle, non-online driver arrangement.
3. 25-25mm ply, braced with a rear midrange chamber (may be ported), and the box no higher than 800mm.
4. Box width deeper than wide (probably should be the other way round).
5. Woofer SA Satori W024 P-08.
6. Mid - Scan Speak 15W8434 G00.
7. Tweeter - Scan Speak Discovery D2608/913000.
8. Simple 1 to 2 order crossover (depending on the test results).
9. Magnetic front grilles with a double baffle, all chamfered.

What do you think?
Many thanks in advanced
Fradbut
 
Hi, you're familiar to the website of Troels Gravesen, and especially his 3-way classic constructions?
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm

This is very close to what you are planning, just another woofer:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Discovery-3WC-mkII.htm

And here, the WO24P is used:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/SBA-941.htm

Just some thoughts:
  • Why the comparable expensive WO24P? Discovery 22W and 26W are cheaper and flawless.
  • With a 9" woofer, you may also use a smaller midrange like SB12MNRX2-25-4.
  • Alternative midrange may be a 15M/4624G00. Alternative tweeter D2604/833000.

Some time ago, i was concepting a design around revelator 15M/8631G00 i wanted to use; also with flat LR2 XO and therefore tweeter phase alignment (never build, and no plan to do so at the moment):

1st attemp, with D2608/913000 and 22W/8534G00:

1701771605935.png
1701771726910.png


2nd attemp, with D2604/833000 and 2x SB17NRX2C35-8:

1701772069972.png
1701772202638.png



Just my 2cents. 🙂
In general - without further simulations - your plan may work out pretty well dependent on the execution.

Best regards
Peter
 
Thanks, Peter.
Yes, his site is great and gave me inspiration to try my own thing, similar to his 3Way Classic.
I think the SA woofer goes lower, which for a smaller box, squeezes out the lowest bass unless you have any other thoughts.
The Scan-Speak woofer is a great, cheaper option but with one shot at this, I'll need to get it right the first time (impossible, right?)
 
Some addition:
Especially with a LR2 XO concept, it is worth paying attention to get a smooth response by the driver FRs + the baffle geometry to keep the filtering easy.

Here an example of the midrange FR; dottet line is 15M halfspace rsponse from the manufacturers datasheet, thick line is the simulated 4pi response on the shown baffle of the 2nd attemp:

1701777740997.png


The baffle diffraction effects/baffle step compensates the drivers FR linearity error very well, the result may need only 1 coil in series for the lowpass.

My advice is to study a bit the builds of Troels especially from the last 3-4 years (do not look at the "old" stuff), he collected may experience with such LR2, tweeter phase aligned conceps. I did, and his baffle constructions+ driver positioning have reasons, and his XO architectures look well tought regarding many aspects (i.e. he trims lowpasses with just series, and without parallel components to keep the backwards impedance the driver sees high; this keeps out-of-band distortion components in the current surpressed...).

Best regards
Peter

P.S.: You don't need such expensive XO components like Troels uses, he makes money by selling them. Air coils and foil capacitors are perfect and worth their money, but you don't need the fancy stuff. Maybe an Alumen Z or Mundorf Evo/Oil for the tweeter series capacitor when it makes you sleep better....
 
Thanks for the info. Very much appreciated. I was going to build a Troels 3 Way Classic but wanted a bit more of the DIY challenge with a build by tweaking a driver or 2.
I'll look at the divers you recommend also.
I tried the Virtuix Caad 2 program you use but I believe it's just used for testing rather than theoretical modeling before purchasing the drivers.