3 way crossover with active crossing for bass / sub

Hi, I have used full analoge crossover for my 3 way floor standing speaker, vented not ported ( SP6600, Seas Excel W18EX and Seas Excel W26 ).

In the lately I have crossed between bass and mid / high with a Accuphase 2 way active fiter ( filter for mid / top is analog ).

Now I thinking of using only a 1 way active lowpass filter for the bass, and use the hole pasive for mid crossing down. And mid / top is as now.
Maybe I tell it complicated ( :
I have picture of the hole passive filter, all the bass parts goes away when using 1 way filter for bass. But I have to put back the 68uF serie cap and the 1.8mH paralel inductor ( did not use them when crossing with Accuphase ). The reason for doing this is that we ( friend and me ) have listen to some speakers and hear that the mid / top is gaining (play more freely and more detail / airy top from have passive crossover, compare to semiconductors ( opamp ).

1: Crossed at 200Hz before, testing 110Hz ( between 6.5" and 10" ), some advice here, pros / cons for where to cross?
2: The two parts that I have to put back (68uF and 1.8mH, have to change the value when change crossoverpoint ). What is that filter called, CL filter ?
3: Could I used a RC filter insted to cross the mid from low Hz, or maybe the cap and inductor is there for a special reason? I know the parts filtering upwards, the 1.8mH serie inductor is for rolloff uppwards and the paralell 10uF cap and 0.1mH inductor is a surge circut to take hand of the around 7000Hz breakup from the Excel 6.5" cone.

Puhhh!! Hope you understand the questions.

Frank
 

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Good morning, I have now tested with a 2 way electronic filter crossed at 110Hz, just to hear difference from crossing at 200Hz.
At first It sound that the bass was gone, not all gone but not that present as before.
But after a while I hear the mid (W18) sound and work better, it handle for sure better ( in my ears ) when also handling the 110 - 200Hz era.
The bass is there, but I can see at the diodes on the Dynamic Precision that I use for the bass that allot of music dont go under 110Hz. When I put on the "dance" playlist on Tidal, the bass is there.
My friend tell me to test with a 0.33uF and a 5K ( use pot ), and listen. He thinking to cross at around 200Hz with 6dB for mid and 100-120Hz 24dB (active) for bass. We have not calculate this in any way. My friend is a 74 year old hifi head ( : Been working at Tandberg in 70-80is and for Leif Ernsten ( Dynamic Precision ) in the 90is. He has 50+ years with this hobby, he working moore in the test and hear mode. Not so good at the new calculator, simulator, x-sim and so on. And myself Im just a starter, 20+ years in the game. So we need help from you updated ones ( : And I know, making a fiter there are SO many things to take in consideration. But any tips on the way I take. I tryed X-sim but Im no good at finde and put in the data / files that needs for elements an so on.

Frank
 
Your first order cross is a good idea considering you are adjusting by ear. I would make sure that the woofer and mid are at the same level. I'd make sure the mid is adjusted for the baffle step. I would test the woofer location for room modes.
 
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Good morning, if I go for a filter between preamp and amp. Using a potmeter. And after I know what output resistanse that sound best, can I then change to two fixed resistors? One that have the total load of the pot and one that has the resistance I adjusted to?

Frank
 

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Good morning, It have take some time ( :

I have used the RC filter between preamp and amp (midrange / tweeter ). Used 0.30 uF and 5K pot, give me a HP 6dB filter crossing @ 106 Hz.
I think it sound good, have good phase between tweeter / bass. But maybe the overlap is to much, so I tryed with 0.20 uF give me a crossover @ 160 Hz.
Then the seperation of things get better but its like I miss something ( punch / attack ) in high bass / low midrange. I have tryed to make a drawing to see the difference. Can a litle underlap say at 1/4 octave be ok? Frank
 

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Hi, Im not sure what you mean. Sorry, you mean rising / lowering dB? I can adjust mid / top on 5K pot and bass on pot inside active crossover ( 110Hz 24dB ).
I was shifting the crossoverpoint upward to hear the difference, and I did. I may try 0.22uF and hear if I get the "punch" back. And of corse its maybe a bad ide to use 1 order but I like to test more.
 
To put it another way, you have more than one thing happening. When you shift the frequency up this way you change the breakup interaction, you change the phase relationship between the drivers and you change the frequency response.

So, if you leave the crossover alone and use an equaliser to try to fix your problem, you can work out which one it is 😉 If the equaliser can fix it, it's a response problem. If not then it's a crossover problem.
 
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