I'm in the process of building a pair of tower speakers and I was seeking some help. I'm new to this and when I comes to crossovers, I'm totally lost. I basically doing this for fun and looks but also some sound quality. I watch a lot of movies so I like to have nice clarity for sound. Ok so here I go, I know it's not right so don't judge lol! The box is going to 3/4 mdf wood. 69.25" tall by 8.50" wide by 8.50" deep. I'm making a nice base plate that will attach to the bottom of the speaker with 4"tall by 1.50" round aluminum rods for support. The main goal it to have the top of the speakers be the same hight as my tv. After the box is built, I am making the main speaker baffle (3/4" thick) that will go on the front attached by 9 individual speaker baffles that will be .50" thick. Each speaker will be flush mounted. Ok, now for the choice of speakers. I'm using 6HiVi M6N 6"woofers in each tower, 2 HiVi M3N 3" mids and 1 4x4 Beston ribbon tweeter. On the back of the tower I will be running a 100w amp plate to run 2 Tang Bang 6 1/2 subs and 2 rear ports for all the woofers that will tie into the woofer chamber and 1 port on the front bottom for the 2 subs.
Port on the front is a 3" flared port and I can cut to length and the 2 rear ports are 2 3/4 each at 4" long.
Speaker specs are:
M6N 6" HiVi M6N 6" Aluminum/Magnesium Midbass
M3N 3" HiVi M3N 3" Aluminum/Magnesium Midbass
Beston ribbon tweeter Beston RT002A Ribbon Tweeter
Tang band subwoofer Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6-1/2" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker
Like I said, I don't know how to figure out or choose parts to build my crossover and I'm thinking a 3-way for sure in each tower. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated!
Port on the front is a 3" flared port and I can cut to length and the 2 rear ports are 2 3/4 each at 4" long.
Speaker specs are:
M6N 6" HiVi M6N 6" Aluminum/Magnesium Midbass
M3N 3" HiVi M3N 3" Aluminum/Magnesium Midbass
Beston ribbon tweeter Beston RT002A Ribbon Tweeter
Tang band subwoofer Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6-1/2" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker
Like I said, I don't know how to figure out or choose parts to build my crossover and I'm thinking a 3-way for sure in each tower. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated!
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The best reviewed MTM designs using the 82db sensitivity HiVi M3N use a small dome tweeter like the Dayton ND20. You will find example crossovers on the web.
I've looked at crossovers on the web for a while now, but I'm just lost at how to select the right one for this setup. I want to build my own but need some more guidance, lol
I don't want to order the wrong conductors,capacitors or resistors. I just need help in selcting the ones that suit the setup decent. I was hoping to stay away from the active crossovers.
I don't want to order the wrong conductors,capacitors or resistors. I just need help in selcting the ones that suit the setup decent. I was hoping to stay away from the active crossovers.
Your driver selection looks like a 4-way, not 3-way. Can you describe your plans for the cabinet volumes for the woofer and subwoofer drivers? From the driver layout in the picture it would seem the cabinet has a complicated internal design. I suggest making the woofers sealed and not ported. It is difficult to get the subwoofer low pass filter to sum well with the high pass of a ported woofer.
There's a lot to work out, regardless of the type of implementation you want to use. Even deciding on the crossover frequencies is complicated with this kind of setup (I'm roughly guessing 600/3200). Then you'll need to find a filter that works with the existing response to bring them into line.
I would consider the directivities of the bands based on driver sizes and spacings, horizontal and vertical as separate operations keeping in mind the goal of a gradual transition. Also the power in each band, their capabilities and responses, and resonances.
I would consider the directivities of the bands based on driver sizes and spacings, horizontal and vertical as separate operations keeping in mind the goal of a gradual transition. Also the power in each band, their capabilities and responses, and resonances.
I was thinking of making the woofer enclosure sealed instead of ported, cause the cabinet volumes are way lower than I expected. I'm not really going to rely on these towers to be full of base as I'm running a klipsch sub for all my lows. The two rear subs will be powered by the plate amp as the rest of the speakers will be wired in series/parallel and powered by my a/v receiver. apologies for the late night drawing lol, but here's how I'm going to chamber the subs from the woofers and mids. Thank you all for the suggestions, keep them rolling!
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Oh I may have failed to mention, but each speaker will be 3/4" apart from one another. I have all my plans basically and just waiting for my friend to get some spare time and get everything Cut out on his CNC machine.
First you ought to learn how to design a loudspeaker in a simulation,
then when you see what kind of mess it might result in, you'll know
a simpler approach might be a healthier one.
My guess is, you're too concentrated on the looks. Probably want
to impress your guests a lot. 😀
Get miniDSP - will cost less than the parts you`d need for a properly designed crossover. Passive will need lots of work to position the vertical lobes and they will be many (more of a comb effect). If you want to go passive, cross to the woofers as low a the mids can take. Cross the mids to the tweeter as low as they can take (again 😀) and position them as close to each other as possible. The ribbon wasn`t the best choice for such design, as suggested - the small ND20 might do a better job. Depending on your goal - 3rd order (if you want wider vertical spot) or 4th order (will have vertical lobes but I think a better choice for your application).
I am very concerned on the looks!!!! Lol, I have changed my blueprints up like 20 times. I did make a center Chanel speaker last year and was very impressed on the outcome and performance surprisingly and finished it off with a nice piano black finish it with aero structures paint. Where I work at, I also got a deal on some really beautiful wood veneer which I'm going to use on these towers. Yes with a little research I could have saved my brain from overload but I wanted to keep these speakers tall and the "deepness" to a minimum because of how I have my tv catty corner and didn't want the speakers deep to where they'd be sticking out past the whole entertainment system. So yes, looks are a important thing but I'm sure I can squeeze some quality sound out of these like I did my center Chanel speaker (which is about the whole width of the tv)
The basic principle is to crossover the tweeter at 2-3 times its resonant frequency (above) to keep excursion manageable. Woofers should be crossed over BELOW the point where their published response curves start to appear jagged; where the cones no longer operate like a piston.
If you're using multiple drivers to cover the same range of frequencies, take care to keep the impedance within the capability of your amplifier.
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...hvtargid=kwd-579232175&ref=pd_sl_7oci5cndfd_e
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If you're using multiple drivers to cover the same range of frequencies, take care to keep the impedance within the capability of your amplifier.
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...hvtargid=kwd-579232175&ref=pd_sl_7oci5cndfd_e
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Make the woofers sealed and you can do this. Making a 4-way crossover is not for sissies, but don't get discouraged, stick with it and I'm sure you will get a satisfying result. As others mentioned active has a big advantage in that trial and error is way easier. Minidsp is a good option. A PC or raspberry pi with a 7.1 sound device will also get the job done if you know your way with Linux audio. You can pick up used, non-hdmi surround sound receivers cheap on craigslist and get several amp channels to use. You don't need big wattage per channel with an active setup.
That's a big help anji12305! I will keep tha in mind. And I've been keeping all my ohm levels at a 8 ohm load except for the tweeter which is 6ohms but my receiver is capable of handling 6-16 ohms I believe, I'm trying to keep it all at a 8 ohm load for the most part
Good man.
This hobby rewards the daring.
We should encourage those willing to try.
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Thanks for the positive encouragement! And I had a blast building my center channel speaker! It's amazing watch wood get transformed into something beautiful! And the benifets of the finished product is a big smile on your face and say "yeah, I built that" lol
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