Hello!
I have a pair of Dynaudio 17w75 and D260 tweeters. I am going to build a 15L box. Does anyone have a crossover suggestion for these guys?
I tried to upload the specs on the D260 but the PDF exceeds the 1MB limit.
http://www.gattiweb.com/images/dynaudio/esotec-d260_data.pdf
I have a pair of Dynaudio 17w75 and D260 tweeters. I am going to build a 15L box. Does anyone have a crossover suggestion for these guys?
I tried to upload the specs on the D260 but the PDF exceeds the 1MB limit.
http://www.gattiweb.com/images/dynaudio/esotec-d260_data.pdf
Have a friend. Has Contour 1.3. Set a switch: 1.3 original / 17W75 only, without everything (0,6 solid core)!!! JLH (exacter CLH,-) for driving. Believe it or not, the friend says, he becomes matured,-)))
His switchposition: 17W75 without crossover or so (very clean amps are requirement).
The 1.3 are disasters. Dynaudio does build good chassis, but not speakers,-)
His switchposition: 17W75 without crossover or so (very clean amps are requirement).
The 1.3 are disasters. Dynaudio does build good chassis, but not speakers,-)
cumbb,
Dynaudio is a legendary manufacturer that certainly knows how to
voice a good sounding loudspeaker, on top of how to produce a
speaker unit. The simple logic says that it's harder to manufacture
a driver than to voice a finished loudspeaker. The proof is this
community!
Shane,
I am willing to simulate a loudspeaker based only on official data
but it won't be optimal.
How do you feel about making yourown measurements?
This thread will help you.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...er-isodynamic-tweeter-2-way-build-thread.html
Dynaudio is a legendary manufacturer that certainly knows how to
voice a good sounding loudspeaker, on top of how to produce a
speaker unit. The simple logic says that it's harder to manufacture
a driver than to voice a finished loudspeaker. The proof is this
community!
Shane,
I am willing to simulate a loudspeaker based only on official data
but it won't be optimal.
How do you feel about making yourown measurements?
This thread will help you.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/mult...er-isodynamic-tweeter-2-way-build-thread.html
I can certainly do a little tuning by ear... but I'd love to see what you suggest!
I forgot to mention... I have the 4 ohm version of the 17w75
I forgot to mention... I have the 4 ohm version of the 17w75
Is a community a proof,-?
I would try much more:
- how to build in a chassis,
- how to modify a chassis,
- how to build a stable and light case,
- how to build a less influencing case
- how to connect the components,
- wich diameters of wires,
- wich wires
...
there is so much, what a crossover, simulated or look-measured, not performs,-)
And: good sources, good amps, good "rooms" are necessary,-)
I would try much more:
- how to build in a chassis,
- how to modify a chassis,
- how to build a stable and light case,
- how to build a less influencing case
- how to connect the components,
- wich diameters of wires,
- wich wires
...
there is so much, what a crossover, simulated or look-measured, not performs,-)
And: good sources, good amps, good "rooms" are necessary,-)
Most designs I have seen for this bass driver are limited to a pretty small box.... 10L. But, on the spec sheet, it says "up to 15L".
I was hoping to go for a larger box for a little more low bass. Is this going to pose a problem? I have a box that's 10L already but I was going to experiment with something larger.
I was hoping to go for a larger box for a little more low bass. Is this going to pose a problem? I have a box that's 10L already but I was going to experiment with something larger.
The bigger, the imprecise.
Cause the case becomes unstable, resonances (to inside and outside!) in all directions,
cause the encased air/volume builds a mass-spring, it does resonate,
cause the reflections (and more in-front-resonances) on/off the, probably, larger front -
tones, which are not recorded - much more diffusity...
... you would need a tweeter🙂
Much better than a wooden case you build a stone-/concrete-case.
Cause the case becomes unstable, resonances (to inside and outside!) in all directions,
cause the encased air/volume builds a mass-spring, it does resonate,
cause the reflections (and more in-front-resonances) on/off the, probably, larger front -
tones, which are not recorded - much more diffusity...
... you would need a tweeter🙂
Much better than a wooden case you build a stone-/concrete-case.
Yes, thanks for that. I have experienced the issue you are speaking about but it was with a tower that allowed me to experiment with volumes (sealing or opening chambers)
The opposite is the truth with 17W75. The greater cabinet volume gives
a lesser Qtc value, deeper bass output cutoff frequency and greater excursion
at Fc.
This driver has been known to bottom out at higher voltages,according to
some of the owners. I haven't got that particular type, only a more modern
version mw160 gt with a very stiff suspension.
a lesser Qtc value, deeper bass output cutoff frequency and greater excursion
at Fc.
This driver has been known to bottom out at higher voltages,according to
some of the owners. I haven't got that particular type, only a more modern
version mw160 gt with a very stiff suspension.
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I haven't had the the issue with bottoming out when I was experimenting with the larger cabinet... but I have experienced "chuffing". A sort of warble that definitely didn't work!
My mistake, the driver that supposedly bottomed out wasn't
the 17W75, it was the version made for vented designs like
17W LQ or the one that was used in Contour 1.3.
the 17W75, it was the version made for vented designs like
17W LQ or the one that was used in Contour 1.3.
So then, would you say that it would be wise to try 15L like it says upon the spec sheet? Or, 12.5L (somewhere in between)?
I would put the driver in a 15-20 litre cabinet to get a deeper
bass out of it, bearing in mind that the price of it would be increased
excursion for the same wattage. The diagrams show it. The needed
wadding (light to heavy) will lower the Qtc somewhat and kill the
standing waves. That's allright.
bass out of it, bearing in mind that the price of it would be increased
excursion for the same wattage. The diagrams show it. The needed
wadding (light to heavy) will lower the Qtc somewhat and kill the
standing waves. That's allright.
FWIW, ~15 L net is a ~1.1 Qtc before stuffing and what was considered by the pioneers of audio to be the most correct for the driver's compliance [Vas], so it wouldn't surprise me that's why Dynaudio recommends it. for a T/S max flat 0.707 Qtc OTOH requires a ~764 L cab, so this seems the reasonable size range by modern dtandards.
Being somewhat math challenged, I've no clue why, but have found that using the mean of most things speaker cab design related yields an excellent compromise between size Vs performance, so personally would use ~107 L based on its published specs and assuming a low total output impedance.
GM
Being somewhat math challenged, I've no clue why, but have found that using the mean of most things speaker cab design related yields an excellent compromise between size Vs performance, so personally would use ~107 L based on its published specs and assuming a low total output impedance.
GM
An adequately sized box volume stuffed fully would lower the
Qtc to about this simulated value(10W), not counting the Rdc
of the low pass inductor. That is a sane approach. I know that
because I have already done the same thing with 24W75, whose
Qt rised to 1,2 ( manufacture 0,9) after being fitted with a new
foam surround.
Qtc to about this simulated value(10W), not counting the Rdc
of the low pass inductor. That is a sane approach. I know that
because I have already done the same thing with 24W75, whose
Qt rised to 1,2 ( manufacture 0,9) after being fitted with a new
foam surround.
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