I used the 14" Goodmans # GV410 LCD monitor for my first attempt at stripping. It is not the best available but, it fit my budget and if I screwed it up , the cost wouldn't make me shoot my self.
300:1 Contrast ratio
20ms response time
1024 x 768 @ 75 Hz maximum resolution
80-degree horizontal viewing angle
60-degree vertical viewing angle
Built-in 15-pin VGA connector
stripped LCD size 11 3/8"x 8 3/4
After stripping, I wanted a sleeker finished design to put on my overhead projector since it is in my living room. I decided to use the original plastic frame from the monitor to create a newer projection panel. Here is a few pictures of the results
before
after-
notice the name "Goodmans" and the menu control buttons are now upside down. the LCD and circuit boards had to be turned in the frame.
stripped LCD
Stripped components
cutout bottom of monitor frame- installed glass
Top frame -installed glass
reinstalled components and the wood box that i built that is attached to frame.
panel on overhead projector
projected image- 70" diagonal - sweeeet!!
If you want to see more pictures of the build and retro fit ,click on my website link
http://mysite.verizon.net/yub_yump/14 inch goodmans
300:1 Contrast ratio
20ms response time
1024 x 768 @ 75 Hz maximum resolution
80-degree horizontal viewing angle
60-degree vertical viewing angle
Built-in 15-pin VGA connector
stripped LCD size 11 3/8"x 8 3/4
After stripping, I wanted a sleeker finished design to put on my overhead projector since it is in my living room. I decided to use the original plastic frame from the monitor to create a newer projection panel. Here is a few pictures of the results
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
before
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
after-
notice the name "Goodmans" and the menu control buttons are now upside down. the LCD and circuit boards had to be turned in the frame.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
stripped LCD
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Stripped components
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
cutout bottom of monitor frame- installed glass
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Top frame -installed glass
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
reinstalled components and the wood box that i built that is attached to frame.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
panel on overhead projector
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
projected image- 70" diagonal - sweeeet!!
If you want to see more pictures of the build and retro fit ,click on my website link
http://mysite.verizon.net/yub_yump/14 inch goodmans
Sorry, forget the .htm at the end. here is a good link
http://mysite.verizon.net/yub_yump/14 inch goodmans.htm
http://mysite.verizon.net/yub_yump/14 inch goodmans.htm
diy projection panel ohp setup
Hi,
Just wondering if anyone can offer me any advise. I have just ordered a powerful ohp from ebay, an elite vision 6000 with a 575w mh lamp, seemed like a reasonable price at £100, considering the powerful lamp.
I am going to turn my 17" flat screen into a projection panel to use with the ohp... can't wait.
Firstly, does anyone know a good place in the UK for ordering the metal halide bulbs? Also does any know if the elite vision 6000 requires a specific bulb or just a generic 575w mh bulb? Any ideas would be appreciated! I've spoken to 'www.overhead-projectors.co.uk'
and they quoted about £150 for a bulb... not sure if that is a good price or not...
Secondly, when it comes to making a projection panel, does it matter what type/thickness of glass I use to enclose the LCD? Also, should the glass on the base of the panel sit flush on the top of the ohp frensel lense, or is it alright to have a small gap between frensel and glass?
Also I have read in a few places people asking what to do when their lcd is larger than the top of their ohp, and lots of people recommend using software like powerstrip to adjust the screen size... I was thinking that if this were the case with my setup, I would attach a frame to the base of my panel with a cut out the same size as the frensel, maybe covering about an inch around the edge of the lcd (that why I was asking if a small gap, the thickness of the frame, would matter) Then instead of using sofware to adjust the screen size, just use the monitor controls (on the front) to manually 'shrink' the screen size, using the vertical and horizontal adjusters, surely much simpler and more reliable?
Cheers for any input, charlie
Hi,
Just wondering if anyone can offer me any advise. I have just ordered a powerful ohp from ebay, an elite vision 6000 with a 575w mh lamp, seemed like a reasonable price at £100, considering the powerful lamp.
I am going to turn my 17" flat screen into a projection panel to use with the ohp... can't wait.
Firstly, does anyone know a good place in the UK for ordering the metal halide bulbs? Also does any know if the elite vision 6000 requires a specific bulb or just a generic 575w mh bulb? Any ideas would be appreciated! I've spoken to 'www.overhead-projectors.co.uk'
and they quoted about £150 for a bulb... not sure if that is a good price or not...
Secondly, when it comes to making a projection panel, does it matter what type/thickness of glass I use to enclose the LCD? Also, should the glass on the base of the panel sit flush on the top of the ohp frensel lense, or is it alright to have a small gap between frensel and glass?
Also I have read in a few places people asking what to do when their lcd is larger than the top of their ohp, and lots of people recommend using software like powerstrip to adjust the screen size... I was thinking that if this were the case with my setup, I would attach a frame to the base of my panel with a cut out the same size as the frensel, maybe covering about an inch around the edge of the lcd (that why I was asking if a small gap, the thickness of the frame, would matter) Then instead of using sofware to adjust the screen size, just use the monitor controls (on the front) to manually 'shrink' the screen size, using the vertical and horizontal adjusters, surely much simpler and more reliable?
Cheers for any input, charlie
Charlie,
I can only give you advice based on what I have experienced building my panel. The OHP should come with glass on the stage already, above the fresnel. Your panel will lay on this glass. I used regular 1/8" standard glass in my panel. Mine sits directly on the glass staging area of the OHP. You can have the panel raised some if you like but, you will get light leaks from under the panel that may reflect on the screen. When OHPs are manufactured they are designed to maintain a surface temperature of the glass staging area. Mine the Da-lite 5000 was designed with a maximum stage temperature of 112 F degrees. After you modify your light you may want to measure the stage temperature. Lay a thermometer on the stage and leave the light on for an hour. This will decide how much heat your panel has to take. If you raise the stage temperature considerably over what the manufacturer originally designed then you will have to cool your lcd to stay within the LCD manufacturers specifications. If the stage heat is considerable then you may want to use IR glass in the bottom of your panel . When you build the panel design it so everything is sealed except for where you want the air from the fan to go. Directly acrossed the LCD would be best.
If your monitor has vert. and horz. stretching controls , then your idea will work. If it only has vert. and horz. movement (up and down/left and right) then it wont work. You can mask off your panel and it work fine. I put 3/4" wide electrical tape around the outside of my top glass to reduce the image. works good.
I know this is long but, I hope I answered some of your questions or at least gave you some ideas. Sorry about the American measurements but, as you know, we just haven't caught on to the mm,cm,celsius stuff yet.
Good luck.
I can only give you advice based on what I have experienced building my panel. The OHP should come with glass on the stage already, above the fresnel. Your panel will lay on this glass. I used regular 1/8" standard glass in my panel. Mine sits directly on the glass staging area of the OHP. You can have the panel raised some if you like but, you will get light leaks from under the panel that may reflect on the screen. When OHPs are manufactured they are designed to maintain a surface temperature of the glass staging area. Mine the Da-lite 5000 was designed with a maximum stage temperature of 112 F degrees. After you modify your light you may want to measure the stage temperature. Lay a thermometer on the stage and leave the light on for an hour. This will decide how much heat your panel has to take. If you raise the stage temperature considerably over what the manufacturer originally designed then you will have to cool your lcd to stay within the LCD manufacturers specifications. If the stage heat is considerable then you may want to use IR glass in the bottom of your panel . When you build the panel design it so everything is sealed except for where you want the air from the fan to go. Directly acrossed the LCD would be best.
If your monitor has vert. and horz. stretching controls , then your idea will work. If it only has vert. and horz. movement (up and down/left and right) then it wont work. You can mask off your panel and it work fine. I put 3/4" wide electrical tape around the outside of my top glass to reduce the image. works good.
I know this is long but, I hope I answered some of your questions or at least gave you some ideas. Sorry about the American measurements but, as you know, we just haven't caught on to the mm,cm,celsius stuff yet.
Good luck.
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