Input clip broke (little lever thingie tabs inside), possibly hit by vacuum cleaner or something.
I have a spare set, threaded banana jack style question is, how to get the switch panel holding the x-over out with minimal damage?
Also, what’s a good replacement for the sound dampening blanket? It’s coming out in pieces.
Something like this work, or call Ohm service and ask if it’s available? (Couldn’t find on their site)
Frost King CF1 "No Itch" Natural Cotton Multi-Purpose Insulation, 16 x 1 x 48-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Y6SX1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4NGS0WMGPDAY3TQW8V1W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
thanks.
norm
I have a spare set, threaded banana jack style question is, how to get the switch panel holding the x-over out with minimal damage?
Also, what’s a good replacement for the sound dampening blanket? It’s coming out in pieces.
Something like this work, or call Ohm service and ask if it’s available? (Couldn’t find on their site)
Frost King CF1 "No Itch" Natural Cotton Multi-Purpose Insulation, 16 x 1 x 48-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Y6SX1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4NGS0WMGPDAY3TQW8V1W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
thanks.
norm
Mixed cotton fibre material like this was used by Wharfedale as damping in some of their 70s speakers.
I spoke with them (John someone) before buying the speakers 2 years ago. Actually looked up the service history- new uppers months prior- very nice talk, and I’ve since bought new “hats” (black speaker covers) for both model pairs 2 and 3.
I was hoping to get answers from somebody who had actually worked on theirs.
thanks.
I was hoping to get answers from somebody who had actually worked on theirs.
thanks.
Well, that was easy.
Spoke with Evan last week (had been out of town), he convinced me NOT to buy/pay for updated crossover and advised to be careful about wiring and all that in attempting to remove the fiberboard crossover panel.
I tried slipping some putty/spackle knives between fiberboard and cabinet and could see/sense badness happening.
I’ve since seen photos of crossovers for sale from salvaged/scavenged speakers and the boards were broken badly. Glad I didn’t have to fabricate of “kluge” repair mine.
I placed a 4” mirror in the bottom of the box, took a bunch of photos to study first, drilled out the binding post mounting rivets (1/8 inch drill, approach from 45 degrees from four points so it doesn’t just turn in hole, broke up all the plastic with wire cutters to isolate the metal bits, used a desoldering tool to get the wires off (easiest if you cut the metal tab off a bit at a time with heavy duty wire cutters), soldered tabs on each side and put a new set of posts in each box. I secured them with 5/8” 4-40 screws and captured star-washer nuts (and a drop of nail polish).
While I was in there I pulled out several of the side supports just to get down to the board and replaced them with a hot-glue gun. A couple of these had fallen to the bottom of the box already and, fortunately, did no damage I could see to the crossovers so I put those back too.
New blanket material (amazon.com recycled jeans) went in, plugged them in and they work like new and sound better, slightly more “bottom” than before..
2d pic shows view from inside with updated jacks. Had to enlarge the hole a bit but was easy to do with an OLFA miniature box-blade cutter.
Thanks for suggestions.
Spoke with Evan last week (had been out of town), he convinced me NOT to buy/pay for updated crossover and advised to be careful about wiring and all that in attempting to remove the fiberboard crossover panel.
I tried slipping some putty/spackle knives between fiberboard and cabinet and could see/sense badness happening.
I’ve since seen photos of crossovers for sale from salvaged/scavenged speakers and the boards were broken badly. Glad I didn’t have to fabricate of “kluge” repair mine.
I placed a 4” mirror in the bottom of the box, took a bunch of photos to study first, drilled out the binding post mounting rivets (1/8 inch drill, approach from 45 degrees from four points so it doesn’t just turn in hole, broke up all the plastic with wire cutters to isolate the metal bits, used a desoldering tool to get the wires off (easiest if you cut the metal tab off a bit at a time with heavy duty wire cutters), soldered tabs on each side and put a new set of posts in each box. I secured them with 5/8” 4-40 screws and captured star-washer nuts (and a drop of nail polish).
While I was in there I pulled out several of the side supports just to get down to the board and replaced them with a hot-glue gun. A couple of these had fallen to the bottom of the box already and, fortunately, did no damage I could see to the crossovers so I put those back too.
New blanket material (amazon.com recycled jeans) went in, plugged them in and they work like new and sound better, slightly more “bottom” than before..
2d pic shows view from inside with updated jacks. Had to enlarge the hole a bit but was easy to do with an OLFA miniature box-blade cutter.
Thanks for suggestions.