I do hear a mild turn on thump through the speakers at on power up if the amplifiers are on. I’m not using the headphone Jack so I can’t say for sure. I think that the Muses has a provision for adding muting relay. It’s reference in the user manual and the AN103 Application Note on the academyaudio.com website. The chassis that I’m using didn’t have an opening for and earphone Jack so I didn’t relocate it after building the board.
@dajack761 That’s a wonderful project! Very nicely done! 🙂 🙂 🙂
What’s the speaker application? The 6-24 is still a pretty rare sight in these parts, what are you using it with?
What’s the speaker application? The 6-24 is still a pretty rare sight in these parts, what are you using it with?
Very nice! Like the chassis. Elegant.
For what it’s worth I decided to get this as a replacement for Lenny’s supplied remote. Your chassis deserves a better looking remote. Plus, you then have a spare.
And what’s the next project…..?🙃🙃
For what it’s worth I decided to get this as a replacement for Lenny’s supplied remote. Your chassis deserves a better looking remote. Plus, you then have a spare.
And what’s the next project…..?🙃🙃
Thanks @6L6! You played a HUGE part in me taking on these projects. Now I’m hooked so I thank you and blame you, lol. But seriously, these builds have been a huge confidence builder for me.
For speakers I’m using a vintage pair of Electro-Voice TRX15’s in and Onken styled enclosure for now. New cabinets are in the works. I’m using 4 amp camp amps (that I did not build) in bridged mono, 1 amp per driver.
I did get my ACA Redux mono’s built and up and running. So I have an amp under my belt now. I want work my way up toand build an Aleph J. See, I’m hooked. Lol
For speakers I’m using a vintage pair of Electro-Voice TRX15’s in and Onken styled enclosure for now. New cabinets are in the works. I’m using 4 amp camp amps (that I did not build) in bridged mono, 1 amp per driver.
I did get my ACA Redux mono’s built and up and running. So I have an amp under my belt now. I want work my way up toand build an Aleph J. See, I’m hooked. Lol
Thanks Derek! Which remote did you get? I know me and I know if won’t be long before i lose this remote. So a spare would be good to have.
I just finished a pair of ACA Redux mono blocks which was a lot of fun. I’m going to have an amp rack of just Pass DIY stuff. I’m not sure what the next project will be but I want to work my way up to Aleph J. That just feels like a big step for me that I need to prepare for. But who knows.
Thanks, I’m glad to hear you say that! I get closer and closer to pulling the trigger on parts every time I look at the guide… I guess it would be a good ideas to at least start getting things ordered. Wow, it didn’t take much of a nudge to get me moving in that direction, did it? Lol! Thanks again man!
Sorry, I didn’t realize that link. That’s a pretty snazzy looking remote.
I came up with another use case for the ACP+ in my project. I may have the occasional need to drive a full range amp and set of speakers as apposed to the current bi-amp setup with the 6-24 crossover. I’m currently only using a single input so my the rotary selector switch is not being used. I also have an extra space for another set of RCA outputs.
I was wondering if it would be ok to use the unused selector switch to switch the output from the ACP+ between 6-24 crossover and a set of RCAs to drive a full range amp and speakers? The two configurations would used in a mutually exclusive manner.
Does anyone foresee any problem with the 6-24 crossover being powered on but not receiving a signal from the ACP+? Some thing hat I may not have considered?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I was wondering if it would be ok to use the unused selector switch to switch the output from the ACP+ between 6-24 crossover and a set of RCAs to drive a full range amp and speakers? The two configurations would used in a mutually exclusive manner.
Does anyone foresee any problem with the 6-24 crossover being powered on but not receiving a signal from the ACP+? Some thing hat I may not have considered?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Hi all! I built my ACP+ last year, and have intermittently experienced weird audio static noise issues through the headphone output. It comes and goes, sometime getting very loud so I can hear it playing through my headphones from another room. Turning the volume control has no effect. A few things have worked to make it go away:
-switching the input switch back and forth some
-when it was built as bare board, touching the headphone jack worked best to make it stop, but now its in an enclosure. Now if I tap the top with some force, it can go away.
Its the strangest thing. It comes and goes sometimes by the half hour, sometimes by the day, sometimes by the week.
Any suggestions? This seems a little different than other static issues I've read about here (this affects both channels, has not burned out components, and has no shocks-only noise, and is not effected by the volume control).
Thanks!
-switching the input switch back and forth some
-when it was built as bare board, touching the headphone jack worked best to make it stop, but now its in an enclosure. Now if I tap the top with some force, it can go away.
Its the strangest thing. It comes and goes sometimes by the half hour, sometimes by the day, sometimes by the week.
Any suggestions? This seems a little different than other static issues I've read about here (this affects both channels, has not burned out components, and has no shocks-only noise, and is not effected by the volume control).
Thanks!
hello all. I like to slowly build the ACP+ kit with fun & with a limited budget 🙂. To start with, I can have the cheap PCB boards and purchase the semiconductors (Q1-Q6) separately. I think the LSJ74 matched quad can only acquired from diyaudio store and the rest can be i.e. mouser. Kindly confirm if my acquisition plan will work and any recommendation is highly appreciated. Frankly, I can't wait for FE 2022 and my ACA mini build is in progress. Thank you y'all
That can work, though you might want to check if there may be some savings (combined shipping) from ordering the pcbs and jfets together vs separately.
While Q1/Q2 are shown as LSJ74 on the schematics, you can certainly use the original Toshiba 2SJ74, which is what's currently offered at the Diyaudio store.
The rest of the parts are readily available from your parts retailers. One thing to keep in mind is Q3/R4 together are suppose to form a 10mA current source. This need not be exact, but you will want it to be in the ballpark. The IDSS measurements of J113 from members I remember seeing are larger than 10mA so that shouldn't be a problem. But you should be prepared to measure the j113 you get and adjust R4 to get close to the desired current.
While Q1/Q2 are shown as LSJ74 on the schematics, you can certainly use the original Toshiba 2SJ74, which is what's currently offered at the Diyaudio store.
The rest of the parts are readily available from your parts retailers. One thing to keep in mind is Q3/R4 together are suppose to form a 10mA current source. This need not be exact, but you will want it to be in the ballpark. The IDSS measurements of J113 from members I remember seeing are larger than 10mA so that shouldn't be a problem. But you should be prepared to measure the j113 you get and adjust R4 to get close to the desired current.
thanks Dennis Hui. your reply is a professional help. Once we plan and build parts we begin to think about cost and the technology etc.. of components in relation to circuit design. I am currently visiting USA so I have a chance to save shipping cost. Cheers bro
Yep, cold solder joint on Q5! Should have found it ages ago, thanks!
I received the kit from the DIY audio store today.
The JFETs are quite well matched.
The IRFP610 are not matched. Is that OK?
The composition of the resistors is very strange.
Some are RN60 1W and fit well.
Some are simply metal film.
Some are RN65 (3W ?) (1k, 150k) and just too big to mount them properly.
In my opinion, R13 (6R8) is way too small with 1/4W.
Why are the resistors put together in such a strange way?
The JFETs are quite well matched.
The IRFP610 are not matched. Is that OK?
The composition of the resistors is very strange.
Some are RN60 1W and fit well.
Some are simply metal film.
Some are RN65 (3W ?) (1k, 150k) and just too big to mount them properly.
In my opinion, R13 (6R8) is way too small with 1/4W.
Why are the resistors put together in such a strange way?
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I think your FETs are OK. RN65 is 1/2W military, 1W civilian I believe. But ya I agree, the resistor choices are quite odd. RN65 is fantastic, I think companies like Mark Levinson use a trillion of them... But CMF55 or RN55 would have been much more suitable on this PCB. I used my own Panasonic MOX resistors at R12 / R13.