My sons Onkyo Integra A8015 integrated amplifier was having some switch problems so I put deoxit to work on all the switches and it seems to work fine at the moment. I noticed though that two of the signal lights have gone out, one at the power switch which is yellow and another green one on the tuner input. Can anyone tell me where I might find some replacement lights, probably have to be LED lights these days, if you know the voltage I would need. I suppose the color isn't important but I thought if it were an easy fix, I could solder them in before reassembly. I am actually surprised how nice this amplifier sounds. Thank you for any help you might offer. I like to fix things but am not very good at electronic repair per se.
Sometimes direct filament lamps without a base are seen.
If you can, measure the voltage with a meter, and post photos.
And some are indicators with a circuit function.
If you can, find the service manual.
FWIW, my car A/c compressor is energized only when the blower is running, to prevent damage.
If the amp is doing fine...those can have 'over-wise' circuits inside.
Leave well enough alone.
Tuner input could function as stereo indicator as well.
And some sets used lamps as fuses / ground protectors...hence my advice above.
Fried STKs were the result once, lamp was used as fuse, and blown lamp meant circuit failure. The OEM design was faulty.
Since you say your knowledge level about electronic circuits is on the low side, refrain from Onkyo at least, most pros do not like to take them on.
Nothing personal, please do not be offended.
If you can, measure the voltage with a meter, and post photos.
And some are indicators with a circuit function.
If you can, find the service manual.
FWIW, my car A/c compressor is energized only when the blower is running, to prevent damage.
If the amp is doing fine...those can have 'over-wise' circuits inside.
Leave well enough alone.
Tuner input could function as stereo indicator as well.
And some sets used lamps as fuses / ground protectors...hence my advice above.
Fried STKs were the result once, lamp was used as fuse, and blown lamp meant circuit failure. The OEM design was faulty.
Since you say your knowledge level about electronic circuits is on the low side, refrain from Onkyo at least, most pros do not like to take them on.
Nothing personal, please do not be offended.
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These lights are likely filament lights and they don't have a base, just put into cork type grommets as indicator lights. The tuner input still works so it is unlikely they are used as a fuse. I can certainly measure the voltage at the base for the supply voltage but I was thinking with the age of the amp, exact replacement lights are likely to be unavailable so was hoping someone had done this kind of replacement on a similar unit and it worked. The amp works fine as is so it is unnecessary to actually replace them for function, but thought since I had it stripped down it would be a good time to unsolder the lamps and replace them. I can look at them but to be honest did not see a part number as they are very small of course. So it is possible that NareshBrd has the right solution and leaving it alone is the right path. (and I am not offended as my repairs are fairly rudimentary and predominantly mechanical, not electronic.) I like to learn new things though and built a number of Dynaco kits in my day (which tells you how old I am) as well as several pairs of speakers based on British designs, i.e. LS3 5a, 3 way monitor, and one horn style single driver. Thanks for the help.
In 1983-84, I found a miniature lamp maker near my college, and got two lamps without bases to replace the blown meter lamps on a 'Cosmic' tape deck.
Check the voltage, and they will be near the automotive 6-12-24 series.
You get lamps in many varieties, just un-solder the base, a little fiddly.
LED will work if no circuit function is involved, use a diode on one leg and drop resistor on the other.
Festoon lamps in Christmas string lights will work, provided the volts are suitable.
Sometimes called rice lamps as well.
The lamps are very cheap, it is the labor and shipping that is expensive. The lamps may be Chinese, sold by a seller in another continent.
Check the voltage, and they will be near the automotive 6-12-24 series.
You get lamps in many varieties, just un-solder the base, a little fiddly.
LED will work if no circuit function is involved, use a diode on one leg and drop resistor on the other.
Festoon lamps in Christmas string lights will work, provided the volts are suitable.
Sometimes called rice lamps as well.
The lamps are very cheap, it is the labor and shipping that is expensive. The lamps may be Chinese, sold by a seller in another continent.
I wouldn't recommend replacing with LEDS..... because the circuitry for the lamps are controlled by resistors of various values depending on brightness and color.
Yes, they use slip-on color "socks" to color the lamps.
Yes, it's not clear what we'll do with this amplifier as no one needs it really but I like things to work properly so I will change all the lights with their normal replacements and be done with it for now. Thanks for your help, particularly wiseoldtech..... you are indeed wise, don't know about the old!
@NYAL
The "old" refers to my 45+ years in the field of electronics.
Starting in the mid 1960's, coached by my grandfather, and later by a neighbor, I started building tube amplifiers from scratch at the age of 16.
High school electronics shop classes furthered my knowledge and understanding.
Then training courses to prep me for a decent job, get my Certificates, etc.
I adhered to a relatively strict path to where I am today.
Which is a semi-retired old buzzard at 70, with plenty of knowledge and resources.
The "old" refers to my 45+ years in the field of electronics.
Starting in the mid 1960's, coached by my grandfather, and later by a neighbor, I started building tube amplifiers from scratch at the age of 16.
High school electronics shop classes furthered my knowledge and understanding.
Then training courses to prep me for a decent job, get my Certificates, etc.
I adhered to a relatively strict path to where I am today.
Which is a semi-retired old buzzard at 70, with plenty of knowledge and resources.
3mm 12V 50...60mA miniature bulbs are sold by probably more than one electronics component dealer, even Amazon sells them:
https://www.amazon.com/Bestol-Miniature-Indicator-Bombilla-Incandescent/dp/B07F71MN2D
https://www.amazon.com/Bestol-Miniature-Indicator-Bombilla-Incandescent/dp/B07F71MN2D
You can take the excess voltage down with a resistor. On an Onkyo from 70-ies the bulbs were also listed as 14V, actually there was around 12V on them (measured after replacing them).
The problem is that there seem to be no such small bulbs available in 14...15V range so I personally just add a resistor when needed (or increase the original one if schematics allows).
The problem is that there seem to be no such small bulbs available in 14...15V range so I personally just add a resistor when needed (or increase the original one if schematics allows).
The trouble is.... if you check the schematic carefully, there are resistors in SOME lamps, to equal out their brightness due to the silicone color sleeves on them.
What you suggest is getting more deeply into a simple replacement job.
I like to make things simple, not making more work for myself.
What you suggest is getting more deeply into a simple replacement job.
I like to make things simple, not making more work for myself.
Well, you do what needs to be done - if no lamps with suitable voltage are obtainable then you have to use what you can get hold of
12V lead acid battery on car is 13.2V low charge, 13.8V full charge, charging cut off is 14.4V on alternators and dynamo regulators.
So your car lamps are actually getting near about 14V when you have them lit in a moving car.
I think you can use 12V car lamps, they are built rugged. Unless poor quality, voltage will not be an issue.
Or you can find SLR camera view finder lamps, expensive.
So your car lamps are actually getting near about 14V when you have them lit in a moving car.
I think you can use 12V car lamps, they are built rugged. Unless poor quality, voltage will not be an issue.
Or you can find SLR camera view finder lamps, expensive.
These should be a suitable replacement.....
https://www.jkllamps.com/incandescent/wireterminallamps/8111
https://www.jkllamps.com/incandescent/wireterminallamps/8111