Sorry to keep you waiting, which I have to do a bit longer but basically for now, home audio drivers are the way to go, what I used mostly when deep into this and the only ones I use now. I have used them in car audio since at least the early 1980's.
Since you should be able to figure out what the originals were if using the stock amp then find ones that match them in size and electrical parameters. It has es been a very long time since I needed to pick any so my list would be a bit old most likely. That is where the members on DIYMA can really help you out better than I can right now.
If you can find an amp to fit you would likely be much better off as well, some really decent amps out there that are quite small.
To keep things more simple go with a pair of components up front and coax for rear doors, most likely.....
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I was working on this last night and hit something and thought I lost it, was tired so went to bed, the above is where I left off, it showed up again.
I will post any changes I might of wanted to do before posting it though.
Seems I was doing OK, at least to me it that is
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HU, Pioneer makes so really nice ones that are reasonable in price and have great tuning ability and even decent power ratings so you might be able to get by without getting an amp. (many car audio systems have the processor built into the stock amp so you could try that, it might not be to bad a unit but you have to use the stock HU to contol them unless the right interface is made that works on your system). Easier to just get a good head unit and ditch the stock amp.
Amp, a tiny 4 plus a tiny sub amp or a 5 or 6 channel little amp that fits. Of course you can put the sub amp under a seat etc.....
Speakers...Tweeters or wideband in the dash, 5.6 midbass in the doors, seal up withe the second front door speaker is, you do not need a 3 way front.
Coax in rear doors.
Sub, strip out the old drivers and measure using water or permeculite, etc, and see how much volume the enclosure has, add a couple or more layers of good damping mat on the outside or even fiberglass it to make stiffen up. Find a pair of subs to replace the stock drivers, you might be getting some decent bass, enough for normal listening at least, not spend much, not take up any space.
Tune, flat response is not what we want in a car, especially at low listening levels, is is just to lifeless. I generally tune for a bit of rise at both ends of the spectrum, sorter an steeper rise on the sub, dropping down at a gentle curve up the range then a gradual climb up to 20khz. Once that is done tweak to your liking and or use build in EQ settings for different music or listening levels.
Wiring, likely have to so some and do look into interface devices needed to tie in anything you want to work with the vehicle.
Done right you can have a very nice system for not a lot of money.
Since you should be able to figure out what the originals were if using the stock amp then find ones that match them in size and electrical parameters. It has es been a very long time since I needed to pick any so my list would be a bit old most likely. That is where the members on DIYMA can really help you out better than I can right now.
If you can find an amp to fit you would likely be much better off as well, some really decent amps out there that are quite small.
To keep things more simple go with a pair of components up front and coax for rear doors, most likely.....
----------------
I was working on this last night and hit something and thought I lost it, was tired so went to bed, the above is where I left off, it showed up again.
I will post any changes I might of wanted to do before posting it though.
Seems I was doing OK, at least to me it that is
---------------
HU, Pioneer makes so really nice ones that are reasonable in price and have great tuning ability and even decent power ratings so you might be able to get by without getting an amp. (many car audio systems have the processor built into the stock amp so you could try that, it might not be to bad a unit but you have to use the stock HU to contol them unless the right interface is made that works on your system). Easier to just get a good head unit and ditch the stock amp.
Amp, a tiny 4 plus a tiny sub amp or a 5 or 6 channel little amp that fits. Of course you can put the sub amp under a seat etc.....
Speakers...Tweeters or wideband in the dash, 5.6 midbass in the doors, seal up withe the second front door speaker is, you do not need a 3 way front.
Coax in rear doors.
Sub, strip out the old drivers and measure using water or permeculite, etc, and see how much volume the enclosure has, add a couple or more layers of good damping mat on the outside or even fiberglass it to make stiffen up. Find a pair of subs to replace the stock drivers, you might be getting some decent bass, enough for normal listening at least, not spend much, not take up any space.
Tune, flat response is not what we want in a car, especially at low listening levels, is is just to lifeless. I generally tune for a bit of rise at both ends of the spectrum, sorter an steeper rise on the sub, dropping down at a gentle curve up the range then a gradual climb up to 20khz. Once that is done tweak to your liking and or use build in EQ settings for different music or listening levels.
Wiring, likely have to so some and do look into interface devices needed to tie in anything you want to work with the vehicle.
Done right you can have a very nice system for not a lot of money.
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