@Matteoleon here's what I bought, you would need to figure out the power supplies. There's a few to choose from based on what's left on your budget. These modules give you what you need I think and separates the Pi pretty good. I'm going Pi-less because I only use a PC as a source
#35C StationPi SMT
#4B ESS Dual Mono II DAC and I/V board
#1D FifoPiQ7
#19D ReceiverPi DDC
#49B MonitorPi Pro
#50A GPIO extender
#7A Transformer I/V (Bisesik)
#35C StationPi SMT
#4B ESS Dual Mono II DAC and I/V board
#1D FifoPiQ7
#19D ReceiverPi DDC
#49B MonitorPi Pro
#50A GPIO extender
#7A Transformer I/V (Bisesik)
Best “downgrade” made.
I read by other members here on the forum that using some dampening material at the SC-Pure clocks would improve the listening experience.
I tried this when rebuilding my new DAC, with two different materials; drum sticks damper (like moon gel) and some ptfe foam type. I added a small amount under the clock, so it didn’t rest on the legs in the sockets and a bigger piece on top that where compressed slightly once the next board in the stack was fitted. The clock was floating on the form.
I have literally thought that there was something wrong with my DAC for many weeks now. It sounded dull. Closed in a box like, if that makes any sense.
Today I removed the damping and left the SC-pure in the socket as originally intended.
This was an improvement! I could once again hear the female voice vibrating when pitching and the voices and instruments separated from each other.
Just my humble opinion 🙂
Has anyone experienced similar things?
The arrow on the photo indicates the brown damping foam I used.
I read by other members here on the forum that using some dampening material at the SC-Pure clocks would improve the listening experience.
I tried this when rebuilding my new DAC, with two different materials; drum sticks damper (like moon gel) and some ptfe foam type. I added a small amount under the clock, so it didn’t rest on the legs in the sockets and a bigger piece on top that where compressed slightly once the next board in the stack was fitted. The clock was floating on the form.
I have literally thought that there was something wrong with my DAC for many weeks now. It sounded dull. Closed in a box like, if that makes any sense.
Today I removed the damping and left the SC-pure in the socket as originally intended.
This was an improvement! I could once again hear the female voice vibrating when pitching and the voices and instruments separated from each other.
Just my humble opinion 🙂
Has anyone experienced similar things?
The arrow on the photo indicates the brown damping foam I used.
Attachments
Hello everyone
I would like to request some assistance from the wider community and, in particular @iancanada, please.
I have a problem which is driving me absolutely crazy..!
Today I installed a ReceiverPiDDC and an Amanero Combo768 into my existing stack. The overall "stack" now is:
HQPlayer -> RPi4 (Ropiee via USB) -> ReceiverPiDDC -> FiFoPiQ7 (with MonitorPiPro) -> HDMIPiPro. -> Gustard R26.
My intention was to run the stack with 384KHz PCM and DSD256/DSD512 into the USB input of the Amanero 768.
The stack plays fine if I restrict PCM to no higher than 96kHz. BUT if I set HQPlayer to output anything higher than 96kHz then:
Anyone have any ideas or clues as to what might be preventing me from playing anything higher than 96kHz?
I initially thought it might be my soldering of the connector on the Amanero, but the fact that it works up to 96kHz and that the necessary lights on the ReceiverPiDDC light up leads me to believe the fault is unlikely to be my soldering.
Any thoughts or am I missing something obvious here? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Many Thanks
I would like to request some assistance from the wider community and, in particular @iancanada, please.
I have a problem which is driving me absolutely crazy..!
Today I installed a ReceiverPiDDC and an Amanero Combo768 into my existing stack. The overall "stack" now is:
HQPlayer -> RPi4 (Ropiee via USB) -> ReceiverPiDDC -> FiFoPiQ7 (with MonitorPiPro) -> HDMIPiPro. -> Gustard R26.
My intention was to run the stack with 384KHz PCM and DSD256/DSD512 into the USB input of the Amanero 768.
The stack plays fine if I restrict PCM to no higher than 96kHz. BUT if I set HQPlayer to output anything higher than 96kHz then:
- There is no output
- MonitorPiPro displays the correct frequency but indicates that the signal is MUTED
- On the FiFoPiQ7 LED D10 is lit-up indicating that the FiFoPiQ7 is empty
Anyone have any ideas or clues as to what might be preventing me from playing anything higher than 96kHz?
I initially thought it might be my soldering of the connector on the Amanero, but the fact that it works up to 96kHz and that the necessary lights on the ReceiverPiDDC light up leads me to believe the fault is unlikely to be my soldering.
Any thoughts or am I missing something obvious here? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Many Thanks
Couldn't wait anymore. The sound was too dull and boring. Removing the dampening yielded a better sound stage and micro dynamics.
@Spacejack Hi, I really appreciated your project and I think it is the ideal choice for my project. I wanted to ask you if there are any particular configuration difficulties since I am not an expert and have never assembled Ian Canada modules. I see that you use an HDMI cable for the I2S signal from HDMIPI to DDC. I also saw that you also use the optical input (I would then like to connect the TV or a CD player to it) naturally the power section you are using is not in my budget at the moment. but could I make it all work with 1 purepi for the streamer part.!? and what would I need for the DAC.!? 3.3V lifepo4.!?
@miklau, this is a fantastic downgrade! I had Mongo gel below ScPure and a sorbothane pad on top. In the early days of ScPure use, I was sure this made an immediate improvement, but now that I have removed this damping method, I am so pleased with the result. It is a much better resolution/definition, also in the low frequencies. Maybe it helps ScPure clocks when they are not burnt in? (if one believes in such a phenomenon). Anyway, excellent finding. Thank you very much @miklau 👏
Thank you. Several difficulties came my way. Most were due to my impatience and acting too fast. In general, I suggest common sense:
- after reading the manual, read it again to ensure you have digested all the details. Some manuals I had to read more than twice ;-) and that is OK because there are options you can choose from,
- before you power on, carefully check that all the connections and their polarity are correct,
- if possible, assemble step-by-step: wire the power supply, make sure it works correctly, then connect the first board to it and check that it works. And so on.
In my setup, I no longer use HDMIPi from streamer -> to DDC on the DAC side connection with an HDMI cable. The streamer is connected to the DAC with U.FL. cables. On the streamer side, you can use IsolatorPi MKII (the new MKIII does not have U.FL. output connectors) or FiFoPi Q7 (which I use) and then on the DAC side the GPIO Input adapter
Of course, you can use an HDMI connection if you like. I just wanted to eliminate the additional conversion from I2S to I2S over HDMI and then back again from I2S over HDMI back to I2S.
Another option is to use a GPIO Extension between the streamer and DAC stack. I have used it for some time. It worked very well. I can't tell if it sounded worse than the U.F.L. connections I use now; I have never compared them.
My setup today is:
Streamer: RPi4 + DDC+ FiFoPi Q7 on Station Pi SMT -> U.FL. Cables -> DAC: GPIO Input Adapter + FiFoPi Q7 with ScPure Clocks and MonitorPi Pro+ DAC
As you can see, the DDC is on the streamer side but the MonitorPi Pro that controls the DDC input is on the DAC side. I just connected the wires between MonitorPi on the DAC stack with the DDC on the streamer stack.
For your consideration: I also connected the TV over Toslink, but please keep in mind that FiFoPi Q7 adds a delay (in my case, two FiFoPi Q7 add twice the delay), so the sound and image are out of sync. My TV has a sync adjust function, but its range is too small to compensate for the delay. Maybe a Home Theater received, or another TV would have a better adjustment range. For now, I have not found a solution and decided to use SMSL SU-1 for TV.
@Spacejack or not !!! you're confusing me! 😂😂 for simplicity I would use the i2s cable to go to the Dac! also because I don't know if I will use a stationpi! maybe later if I manage to become more expert I will also try more complicated solutions 😂 and maybe now stick to your initial project. I would like to use for the streamer - purepi - Rpi4 - IsolaorPi 3- hdmipi- is2 cable up to Dac with Dcc- Fifopi q7- ess9038dual mono- I/v trafo lundahl. do you think this could work well!? which monitor should I use and where to do any checks or settings.!? later I will then add a 7 inch monitor on the rpi4 to show the images of the audio software.
This was the main selling point for me. To not have to worry about filtering and cleaning the mains supply. In pure mode the caps are disconnected from the mains.
my understanding is that you could generate unwanted noise in or around the area of the DAC that could find it's way into the system. Now if you separated the psu into another chassis it would reduce or eliminate that noise based on how isolated the psu becomes.
for me it was cheaper to buy a toroid vs a 3-5 amp SMPS psu and I am building a 2 chassis DAC anyway so a toroid made sense for me. Somebody else's build may require an SMPS to fit into whatever situation they have
for me it was cheaper to buy a toroid vs a 3-5 amp SMPS psu and I am building a 2 chassis DAC anyway so a toroid made sense for me. Somebody else's build may require an SMPS to fit into whatever situation they have
@MtlJazz @sbelyo Thanks,
Not sure if the medical grade vs normal ones has any SQ improvements but you can sure see a difference in noise as they have a grounding system and a third ground wire. And a better build and safety standard.
I would definitely stay away from noisy SMPS as noise can jump across a relay very easily
Not all SMPS are noisy some are good but majority are noisy
I demonstrated that in a couple videos these are crude tests hard to tell how much of that noise trickle in the final sound but still give some idea and we know that no noise is better then some
These are links at specific time so you don’t have to watch the entire videos
Hi folks,
I am not shure if this is the right thread (if not, plaease let me know, as I am a new here). A few days ago I bought a Protodac (for Raspbery Pi 3B) from a Dutch vendor. After installation and configuration I recognized some strange noise coming out of the speakers. The vendor answered on my claim that this is comming from the Rasp, as the Dac is so sensitive. I tried all possible modifications (external low noise power supply, ground connection etc. (according to Gabby's YT-Video). But no real improvement. I am fully lost in identifying the root course, Perhaps you can identify what is the reason of this annoying noise. Hear the attached sound file and let me know what this could be.
Chears,
Cnut
I am not shure if this is the right thread (if not, plaease let me know, as I am a new here). A few days ago I bought a Protodac (for Raspbery Pi 3B) from a Dutch vendor. After installation and configuration I recognized some strange noise coming out of the speakers. The vendor answered on my claim that this is comming from the Rasp, as the Dac is so sensitive. I tried all possible modifications (external low noise power supply, ground connection etc. (according to Gabby's YT-Video). But no real improvement. I am fully lost in identifying the root course, Perhaps you can identify what is the reason of this annoying noise. Hear the attached sound file and let me know what this could be.
Chears,
Cnut
Recently I completed the linear power supply and drilled some holes in the bamboo to allow fresh cool air for the power supply and RPi4.
I will design a custom panel to clear all the connectors for the RPi4 and TransportPi AES.
It does work but need to create a sync cable between the PurePi and FifiPi Q7 so it can charge the LifePo4 batteries when not playing music.
@iancanada
Can you add a 2-pin header on the PurePi on the next revision so you don't need to run the power cable "outside" the cabinet as the USB-C is the only way at this moment to feed at but an extra internal header would be nice to have.
I will design a custom panel to clear all the connectors for the RPi4 and TransportPi AES.
It does work but need to create a sync cable between the PurePi and FifiPi Q7 so it can charge the LifePo4 batteries when not playing music.
@iancanada
Can you add a 2-pin header on the PurePi on the next revision so you don't need to run the power cable "outside" the cabinet as the USB-C is the only way at this moment to feed at but an extra internal header would be nice to have.
@sbelyo
Thanks, it makes for a nice compact build with all the parts I need and well seperated.
It is from a Galaxy Modu enclosure: http://www.modu.it/galaxyeng.html
I already showed the first steps of the build in this thread some time ago:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...fight-the-jitter.192465/page-620#post-7669767
Thanks, it makes for a nice compact build with all the parts I need and well seperated.
It is from a Galaxy Modu enclosure: http://www.modu.it/galaxyeng.html
I already showed the first steps of the build in this thread some time ago:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...fight-the-jitter.192465/page-620#post-7669767