Go Back   Home > Forums > Commercial Sector > Manufacturers > Wild Burro Audio

Wild Burro Audio DIY full range speakers from Wild Burro Audio Labs

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 4th April 2011, 10:08 PM   #1
Karl71 is offline Karl71  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Default Sealed Cabinet - Can This Be Right?

Paul and All -

Since I don't have WinIsd loaded on the machine I am using, I tried some hand-calculator work and found that a Qtc of .707 gives an interior volume of 1.09 cubic ft. That sounds very reasonable. The very weird thing is that a Qtc of .5 gives me an interior volume of nearly 8 cubic feet! Can this really be?

Regards,

Karl
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th April 2011, 11:15 PM   #2
pjanda1 is offline pjanda1  United States
diyAudio Member
 
pjanda1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
Karl,

That doesn't look quite right. .707 should be considerably bigger. With stuffing, I often advise around 2 cu ft sealed (or a little bigger), smaller for HT. If you are not going to use BSC, then some folks like the higher Q alignments to get a little more midbass. And, I always recommend wide baffles and wall or corner placement when not using BSC. There are plenty of calculators online, including the online version of winids.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th April 2011, 12:35 AM   #3
Karl71 is offline Karl71  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Paul -

That's it then. I'm going to go with 2 cu.ft. boxes and be done with it.

I'm surprised that no one else has apparently done this.

BTW, which driver is more popular?

Regards,

Karl
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th April 2011, 03:27 AM   #4
pjanda1 is offline pjanda1  United States
diyAudio Member
 
pjanda1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
I'm sure some are playing happily in sealed boxes. Not too many folks actually post their projects. I'm as guilty as any one else! I always start with the intention to document my build, but I rarely get around to it. Another project usually seems more pressing. At first I was also saddened by how few customers I heard from after I shipped the speakers. Then it occurred to me that I generally never follow up with folks I buy stuff from unless I've got a problem. So perhaps no news is good news.

The Betsy and BetsyK have sold nearly dead evenly. I didn't expect that they would, but so it is. Generally, I never sell them same number in a given month. One month everybody will buy Betsys, the next month BetsyKs. But over time, it always evens out.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th April 2011, 02:25 AM   #5
Karl71 is offline Karl71  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Paul -

What is the advantage of 3/4" ply over 1/2" ply? Is a "dead" cabinet that important? I would use some bracing. I would surface mount the driver and do not want to carve out too much wood around the rear of the driver in order to create clearance for the holes in the basket.

Regards,

Karl
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th April 2011, 02:37 AM   #6
pjanda1 is offline pjanda1  United States
diyAudio Member
 
pjanda1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
Karl,

Even if you don't flush mount, the basket covers the first 3/4" anyway. Generally you do not want a terribly resonant cabinet. We fullranger folks tend to not make them as heavy and braced as the multiway guys, preferring a "livelier" sound. But still, 3/4" is the norm. Bracing never hurts, but on a smaller, I wouldn't brace the baffle too close to the speaker. Something like the BIB has such big panels that more bracing is good. With mine, I even doubled up the front panel to get 1.5" thick (and then I did cut the back panel so the driver had room to "breath").

3/4" is really the standard in speaker building. Some really small cabinets can get by with 1/2". So can cabinets that are very heavily braced. For example, I have 1/2" sides cut for my tapped horn subs, but they are so heavily folded and have such a narrow line that sides are essentially over-braced. When it comes down to it, it is much easier to build a less braced 3/4" box than a adding more braces to 1/2" ply.

If you read much about cabinets, you'll see that MDF is the norm in the multi-way world. It is certainly dimensionally stable (no warps like ply). But, it is also less stiff. Most of us fullrange guys think it sounds bad. It is also really unhealthy stuff, especially if you have a big vent or leave the outside unfinished. And the dust is nasty. You'll see that Baltic Birch (different and more expensive than big box store "birch ply") is the standard for really nice builds. I'm pretty happy with AC grade pine for most things. It has nicer internal plys than much of the "cabinet grade" big box store sheets that have pretty but thin veneers and terrible internal plys. My BIB's were a baltic birch, but that was again due to the large panels.

I assume that more than answers your question!

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th April 2011, 05:58 PM   #7
Karl71 is offline Karl71  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Paul -

BTW, what is the size of the mounting holes around the perimeter of the basket?

Regards,

Karl
  Reply With Quote
Old 6th April 2011, 06:12 PM   #8
pjanda1 is offline pjanda1  United States
diyAudio Member
 
pjanda1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
7.25" is a good middle ground and gives you a little leeway if you don't get the screws perfectly aligned. You could go a little tighter if you are really good. When I used to cut the hole freehand (Rotozip, no jig), I'd aim for more like 7.375" to be sure I'd be o.k.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th April 2011, 10:56 AM   #9
Karl71 is offline Karl71  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Paul -

I meant the individual mounting holes. What size screw does each one take?

Regards,

Karl
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th April 2011, 02:42 PM   #10
pjanda1 is offline pjanda1  United States
diyAudio Member
 
pjanda1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
Fancy: 10-32 socket head cap screws (into brass inserts, T-nuts, etc)
Less Fancy: #8 black pan head coarse thread
Real cheap: drywall screws

I always use four screws even though there are eight holes.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers

Last edited by pjanda1; 7th April 2011 at 02:44 PM.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Woofer choice in 2-way sealed cabinet tinos5601 Multi-Way 1 13th March 2007 04:55 AM
Sealed sub: cabinet size?? Klimon Subwoofers 4 10th August 2006 11:26 AM
fx 120 in a small sealed cabinet audiothings Full Range 1 24th September 2005 12:03 PM
sealed cabinet design: Qtc and layout questions kstoerz Subwoofers 12 10th May 2005 08:57 AM
Sealed cabinet speakers Zepper Multi-Way 3 21st May 2004 11:34 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 08:06 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2