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The Purple speaker: an $18, 8" fullrange!

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Rats. You should have 2 of each whizzer. I'll get replacements out ASAP if you want them. I should be more careful counting. Little buggers stick together!

Good point about the peanuts. I'll look for some bags. I'm not quite sure what to do about the whizzers. Maybe wrapping them in something would help? How did other folks' units fair?

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
 
As you Betsy/BetsyK customers know, the speakers are individually boxed, and then, ever low budget, I just tape them together to ship. Early on I thought they might be prone to separate during shipping. Yesterday was the first time a customer received one when I had shipped two! I really think the next batch of B/BK may use this packing method.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
 
Hey Paul, just remembered. When that box came, I heard a knock on the door and couldn't get there in time. Then I heard this slam, and shortly after a vehicle driving away. Only the day after did I find the package, and figured that the slam was the box and its contents being "dropped off".

The contents are perfectly fine as far as I can tell, but I thought I'd submit this for your consideration.

- keantoken
 
Paul, the post #4 response is referred to an unit whith the smallest size whizzer?

Cheers
J

Nope, that is with no whizzer, which is why it is nowhere close to fullrange in the graph. The small and medium whizzers give enough treble, IMO, and in my room are balanced and fullrange. The biggest whizzer will give you more up to 10K, which will be to the taste of many who crave "detail" and "speed", but to me counts as "overbright" (in stock form).

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
 
I've tried to think of the best un-glue-able glue. Obviously, the softer stuff won't give you the same performance. Energy transfer is everything here, so the engineers say a super stiff bond is best, and recommend Loctite brand super glue. (I got the gel, so it won't accidentally run where I don't want it.) But, the whole point of the different whizzers is to experiment, so try whatever seems best to you and let us know! Rubber cement seems like a good idea to me, but I'm not familiar with adhesives. I also wonder about a stronger glue, but just in a couple of spots. If worse comes to worse, I really think you could cut at least one pair off and still get another on.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
 
Well, if anybody else in OZ is interested, post here and we will see what we come up with. Postage to OZ is the issue: I own a Post Office, so getting them distributed around is easy once they are here...

I'm looking for my first (read "cheap") full range project and the postage is always the killer here in Australia. I was looking at the Pioneer B20FU20 that everyone seems to rave about but the postage from Parts-Ex was more than a pair of drivers.

I know it's been a month, but if a group buy to Aus pops up for these Purples I'd love to try 'em. Perhaps even the Betsy's in the same parcel too.

Regards,
Tani.
 
As you Betsy/BetsyK customers know, the speakers are individually boxed, and then, ever low budget, I just tape them together to ship. Early on I thought they might be prone to separate during shipping. Yesterday was the first time a customer received one when I had shipped two! I really think the next batch of B/BK may use this packing method.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers


I'd like to point out that Paul was quick to send out a replacement. Outstanding customer service!
 
Received my Purple speakers. Thanks Paul.

The packaging was really good but the shippers still managed to bend the basket of one of them. Must have really given it a wallop because it broke the gasket as well. Not to worry though it straightened out OK.

I put them in a couple of small test baffles and hooked them up yesterday (small whizzers glued on with superglue) to my 30w KT88 amp in triode mode

The sound was very open and detailed and I would describe it as free, like someone pulled the cork out. I did notice that they sounded a little bright compared with my previous Kef Concerto one`s. Anyone else noticed that? Could it be the size of the baffles? (14" wide by 32" high speaker rim placed 2" from the top) I know they are small and I didnt expect any bass but would you expect them to sound bright? Will the Betsy`s sound similar in a similar baffle?

Cheers
Alan
 
A 14" baffle is a sure recipe for brightness. We're not just talking a lack of low bass, but a lack of anything below 300hz. That will make the speaker sound awfully forward and bright. Or, many people would say, "detailed". To get anything resembling a balanced sound, you'll need to triple that baffle size or add a woofer. The Betsys will sound similar in that baffle. Your only hope to go really narrow is to carefully balance the baffle width with a very high Qts speaker, but I still suspect you'd have trouble getting below 20ish". Thats just a guess though. Once you get enough width, you'll still need to get the speaker down. That 2" from the top is also killing you.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
 
Thanks Paul that`s interesting.

I have a pair of 12" woofers that I would like to use to "help" the full rangers (they sound prety good on an OB) and I intend to Bi-amp using active cross overs. The distance from the top of the baffle is due to the scrap I used to make it and will be much lower down the board on the finished baffle.

I`ve seen a graph somewhere which gives OB size v low end frequency cut off I will have to find it.

I`m pretty sure I got the phase right but just to make sure how do you tell polarity of the purple speakers I can`t see any markings?

Cheers
Alan
 
Alan,

Whether or not it will work depends a great deal upon the woofers and how many watts you'll have. If they are low Qts, low efficiency, or especially both, you could end up with sub 75db 1w/1m efficiency from the woofers. It would then take some big watts to move them, and even then, I suspect they wouldn't sound terribly integrated. 12"'s are never terribly efficient, so I presume if you are maximally lucky (they are high Qts and high efficiency), you'll get into the low 80's (in terms of efficiency).

A graph isn't going to tell you much. You need to download a baffle simulation program and plug the woofer's T/S specs into it. Then with some understanding and time, you'll figure out whether an OB is possible for them and roughly what size it needs to be. If you post the specs, I might have time to help.

Any chance you can build a box for the woofers? In all likely hood, boxes will work much, much better.

With most things audio, red is right. Here that applies if you have the terminal strip below the magnet (towards the bottom). Then the terminal on your right is +.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
 
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