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Wild Burro Lab pics

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That does look good. Yak pretty much are cattle. They are quite healthy to eat, as they carry all of their fat under their skin (to stay warm), so the meat is very lean. Tasty too. Unlike Buffalo, for example, they are a domesticated species, so they are fairly easy to handle. See John's (the guy in the pic) promotional video here. I used to occasionally help on the Yak ranch when we lived in MN. Now I live just a little north of the largest heard in N. America, but I don't know that I'll have an opportunity to visit. They are probably a little to wild for me to handle (as are cattle who only see people once a year or so).

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
 
Last weekend we went to Denver for the National Western Stock show. Our friends John (the Yak Man) and Becky Hooper brought a few Yak from central Minnesota, and we went down to spectate and help with the halter show. The first pic is a random Longhorn. Then, John and Jericho, his 9 year old. Jericho was the Grand Champion of the Yak show, which was a great surprise. His horns are enormous, and gravity pulled them into that extremely atypical position. Usually, atypical is bad for a show critter. It was his lucky year! Too bad his eyes look evil in that pic. Finally, that is my lovely wife showing either Millie or Tillie (I can't recall which). I didn't think I'd ever see her in a show ring with a large animal, but life is full or surprises.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
 

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And, back to audio. I started the OB project I've been talking about. I needed a buffer to drive the miniDSP that will run the woofers. So, this is what I came up with from the parts bin. It is an OPA2132 running in unity gain. It certainly takes some life out of the system when inserted between my CDP and amp, but I think it will be just fine running up to only 150hz. The power supply is from a Hagerman Bugle. Overkill, but better for it to be used that sit sadly in a bin.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
 

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I had purchased a NOS old Stancor PT for the El Cheapo. It buzzed loudly, and I wanted to try and salvage it. I assumed it was a void between the lams (old Stancors don't appear to be the highest quality things in the world, looked to be just dipped in varnish). I was tossing around methods for at-home vacuum impregnation. My neighbor, a materials scientist who uses vacuum impregnation to laminate composites, felt I could do as well with the bags as with any other affordable option. I tried it with some basic urethane varnish. I heated the varnish on the grill, transformer in the oven. I put the varnish in a jug, ran a tube to the bag and used a long nosed vice grip as a valve. I sealed everything up with latex caulk stuff. (The whole setup was my neighbors idea).

So, basic idea, heat everything, varnish in the jug, trafo in bag, pull a vacuum, then open the valve.

Ultimately, it didn't work. It is possible the transformer was too flawed, i.e., the vibrating lams were sealed in with varnish and even the vacuum couldn't get more in there. I was also in a hurry, and didn't let it impregnate for more than a minute or so when I should have waited 10.

I do believe the method has merit, but deserves to be executed properly and surely won't solve every last problem.

Paul
Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers
 
Hi there Paul (pajandal): Hope you try another method to get more/new varnish into the OST. SUBMERGE the OST in a vat of varnish, heat the vat over a grill (standby with a fire extingushier), let the heated vat sit for several hours. This idea was recommended in a bicycle maintenance book (now lost) for lubricating bicycle chains with parifin (a dryer form of oil, not greasy on your leg). It works well. ...regards, Michael
 
That transformer is long gone. Vacuum impregnation is a step well beyond just submersion. Varnish is pretty thick, and the gaps it needs to fill are pretty tiny. Submerging in varnish might be better than nothing, but certainly won't fill all those little spaces. What it will potentially do is make those spaces into unreachable bubbles, which is probably why I couldn't salvage the unit (I suspect it was just dipped with no vac at the factory). The idea with the vacuum is to pull all the air out before introducing the varnish (much better than sinking in varnish and then introducing the vac as others have suggested).

I heated the varnish over a grill. Somewhere there is a dedicated thread where I mentioned the temp my neighbor suggested, but I used a cheap deep fry thermometer to monitor the temp. You can certainly extinguish a varnish fire, but I'd hate to have to replace the grill or scub a bunch of burnt varnish off of it!

BTW, if I took better care of my bike I'd use dry lube. The stuff I'm using now (cross country?) is much more resistant to driving rain at 80 mph (the roof of my car) and road salt. It is pretty tough to wash off ones calves though.

Paul
 
Hi there Paul (pajandal): Hope you try another method to get more/new varnish into the OST. SUBMERGE the OST in a vat of varnish, heat the vat over a grill (standby with a fire extingushier), let the heated vat sit for several hours. This idea was recommended in a bicycle maintenance book (now lost) for lubricating bicycle chains with parifin (a dryer form of oil, not greasy on your leg). It works well. ...regards, Michael

Triumph or Norton used to recommend that way of lubing a non o-ring motorcycle chain. Shoulda been titled How to spend an afternoon lubing a chain Thank goodness for ChainWax, paraffin based spray lube.
Maybe next time a combination of pressure and vacuum to dislodge any bubbles.
 
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