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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
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It gets a sharp massive peak (8db) at 60Hz
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#32 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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thanks - that would suck - hornresp is probably better than AJ-horn - how much plywood does it take to make one cabinet?
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#33 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'd say 1 1/2 4x8 sheets per cabinet. I haven't figured it out yet. I'm working right now I will probably draw it up tonight and figure out the materials.
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#34 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dallas
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Zob's most recent experiment, double chambered reflex cabinet.
Has three impedance peaks, plots almost same like K12... Not that it actually sounds the same like K12, just the impedance... Anyways, I hate this tang band's whizzer. Its that intermediate "lowther" size whiz that irritates. Shrill and syballant. No such problems heard with Betsy(smaller) or Beta12LTA(larger) whiz. Betsy was tried open baffle (sorta), with one cabinet side off. And also tried with this box properly closed. Qts raised from 0.8 to 1.4, yet this peak did not seem too noticeable in music. Open baffle was the preferred sound of the day, but this box wasn't bad. Last edited by kenpeter; 4th July 2010 at 07:13 PM. |
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#35 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
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do you like the DBR better than K12? BetsyK might become my late night speakers if the cabinet footprint is small - how might one progress with a new K-coupler for some 8" and how would you vent it? (that forum needs some input) - - my brief impression of 1772 Tang as a direct radiator was kinda mellow/bland/"hifi" and its a bit that way in K12 - - the amp, dac, etc, probably play a role. Good ol' DBR - might be good option for BetsyK - how does one logically extend DBR to a triple reflex? (for cases where the box is large enough to do something) re:12LTA, in K12 with slits sealed and good amount of polyfill I got Qts~0.83, fc~73Hz - sound abit better with one slit open than tightly sealed - there ought to be some cheap tweeter to put in front of 12LTA on a bracket. - btw - might be interesting to put a coupler in front of a DBR
Last edited by freddi; 5th July 2010 at 01:42 AM. |
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Paul, I'd love to see the quasi TWQT/TL you mentioned in the first post, and the MooseBVR that was simulated for BetsyK
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
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Here is a link to the TQWT thread: BetsyK Simple TL
And here are the specs ScottMoose sent me for a double mouth BVR: Chamber internal HxWxD = 37in x 10.5in x 12.25in. Driver mounted centrally; suggest a couple of window braces at least. Back, one side & either the top or base of the chamber (making sure you don't block the throat) lined with 1in acoustic fiberglass or similar. Throats are 1in deep & 0.75in long. Each horn is 14.5in tall at the mouth; an angled strike-plate runs from the front of the box to 1.5in down / up (depending on which horn we're talking about) from the throats. Notice too that now is a good time to buy with the sale priced BetsyKs! Paul Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers |
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: ann arbor, mi
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I'm about to begin a journey in building the TL, (BetsyK Simple TL). I am very excited.
Before I get too committed, I have a noob question about the BIB. The one on the Wild Burro site is 6'6"x20"x25". That's a 13' line. Is it reasonable to fold the line into 3 or 4 sections, creating boxes that are approximately 52" or 39" tall. respectively? Are there serious disadvantages? I understand they'd be deep boxes but space in my hut is limited. Thanks to you all in advance - M Last edited by Mush; 5th April 2011 at 10:44 PM. Reason: I can't type well. |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boulder, CO
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You need to keep two things in mind. First, the driver has to remain at the correct position in the line and be at a good height for listening. Second, the BIBs really like their ceiling loading. I wonder if you could get it about right if you fold into four sections, the beginning of the line at the bottom front, then the final section firing either into the floor or out the back. It'd be a chunky thing! One of the nice things about the standard bib is that for all their volume, between the height and corner loading, they generally don't take up a giant bunch of floor. Compared to say, open baffles!
Paul Wild Burro Audio Labs - DIY Full Range Speakers |
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#40 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: ann arbor, mi
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I've decided on building the regular BIB for my Betsy-k pair. Your BIB is 78"x20"x25". Using the excel sheet from www.zillaaudio.com, I get 67.5"x21.5"x29.8". This is a big difference. Is this because the BIB design allows for a lot of flexibility? I'd really to make them 24" deep since that's exactly half the width of a 4'x8' sheet of plywood. Are BIB's all that sensitive to exact dimensions?
Thanks again. |
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